Bummer, can you hear the pump prime? You'll want a new fuel pump relay as well to match all your new parts.
when you get it home, AAA I hope, If not try this first.
Put a 20amp fuse jumper wire, from batt+ to the red test wire 490 the fuel pump will run if it is good. If it does run, the relay may be bad or the wiring, or the computer isn't signaling the relay to turn on.
Relay is normally bolted to firewall above pass side valve cover.
Was there any back fire through tbi, recently? When it ran last, how was the power pulling away from a stop? Did it seem a little slower?
Did it stall and never restart or was it shut off and never restart
Haven’t noticed any backfires. It’s always been sluggish since I’ve had it. Last it ran, I just turned it off and it wouldn’t start again except when I was trying to get it started with spray. No telling how long those wires have been like that
Only replaced the temp sensor and the injector pigtails. Need to clean up the splices with shrink wrap but it was good enough to start up. Going to go ahead and replace the pump, sending unit, filter, and do the TBI rebuild kit since I have them here. Won’t hurt anything
Been a bit since I posted but I finally got around to the fuel pump and sending unit. I dropped the front of the tank a bit to give me some room and cut out an access hatch. Used a marine grade hatch door with rubber seal to cover it. Haven’t bolted it down yet as I need to put rust converter down in the back first but it’s looking good. Going to put some Kilmat under the door too before I’m done.
So far I’ve replaced the fuel pump relay, injector pigtails, fuel filter, pump, and sending unit. The truck seems to idle smoother and has noticeably more pickup in 1st and 2nd. Sounds better too.
I went a few weeks where it started up every time but a few times recently it wouldn’t start. Only finished this up today but so far so good
The goldish colored part is the clutch slave cylinder. The port on top does not have anything connected to it. That is the air bleeding screw, used for removing air from the hydraulic clutch system.
I think you have an engine oil leak from the oil cooler line, or possibly else where. Always look above and work your way done when looking for oil leak origin.
Thanks for the info. After I posted, I crawled back under there to look more. Its a very tight fit in there.
The oil cooler lines runs off the top of the adapter that the filter runs to, right? Looks like a real bitch of a spot to get my big hands in to. Look more at those lines, they seem really poorly made. The plastic push fittings seem like a great spot to have a recurring leak. I'll have to look around to see if there is a better solution. Maybe those filter relocation kits with some better hardware, hoses, and fittings.