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1988 Camaro Check Engine Lights

Jumppr said:
Bought the car a little over a year ago. It had a little over 30k on it. It smoked quite a bit on startup when we first got it. I replaced the valve stem seals a few months ago, but other than that nothing has been touched.
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The odometer only goes to 100k then it rolls over to all zeros again. I’m guessing it has more like 130k or 230k, etc. Would need to see pics or proof otherwise to know for sure.
 
rampage said:
The odometer only goes to 100k then it rolls over to all zeros again. I’m guessing it has more like 130k or 230k, etc. Would need to see pics or proof otherwise to know for sure.
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No. It’s really only 37k. Bought it from the original owner and the car still smells new. It has not rolled over.
 
Jumppr said:
No. It’s really only 37k. Bought it from the original owner and the car still smells new. It has not rolled over.
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I was going to ask if that was a 6 digit odo, my 94 is
See if your local vato zone has an OBD1 scanner

If not, there is some software through your laptop and an ALDL cable that will read the ECM and datalog it
You may be able to see some of the numbers in the system while it's running


I will agree with most of the suggestions above. In lieu of a scanner, I would check the fuel pressure, then check and clean the EGR, and pull some plugs and look
It's not uncommon for the ICM to cause this. The one you already swapped out any not be right or working right
 
Only 30k in the car, it's been sitting quite a bit.

Could be rodents working on the wiring for you.

Have you stuck a scope into the fuel tank?

Cars that sit are just as likely to have some problems as abused or neglected cars. Lot rot sets in.
 
Thank you all for the suggestions. I will keep looking. AutoZone doesn’t have OBD1 scanner. I’m going to buy one and get a voltmeter to start more troubleshooting.

I’m going to do fuel filter first and see if that helps. My thoughts are it’s not getting good consistent pressure and the light wants to come on but it doesn’t because the pressure keeps jumping up and down, thus causing the flashing. If fuel filter doesn’t help I’ll check pressure and go after the pump if it’s seems off.
 
dyeager535 said:
37k miles? I might run a fuel pressure test. I've not seen low fuel pressure throw codes, but I suppose it could depending on what's getting to the O2 etc.

Not exactly sounding like a bad fuel pump hose, but original miles means the pump is probably original, which means the hose in tank is likely not ethanol compatible.
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A good way to check for a crack line in the tank is to fill the tank up so it’s all submerged.
Does this only happen when your tank is running low vs full?
 
So I finally got the check engine light to stay on (never thought that would make me happy) and was able to pull a code 44. Looking into it that points to an O2 sensor/running lean code.
I changed the fuel filter just in case, but that didn’t help. So next task is swapping out that O2 sensor and seeing what happens.
Good news is I’ve got a brand new ECU, ICM, cap & rotor and fuel filter.
 
look for vacuum leaks, including the egr. code 44 means the O2 is seeing engine running lean, and the computer can't make it run rich
 
Wes Harden said:
look for vacuum leaks, including the egr. code 44 means the O2 is seeing engine running lean, and the computer can't make it run rich
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I shot a bunch of carb cleaner all over and couldn’t get it to stumble. I’ll pull that EGR assembly and see what it looks like.
 
Wes Harden said:
If 45mph the egr could be hanging open, at the lower idle runs, causing a more air than fuel condition, and stall. There is a filter on the purge side of the egr solenoid, is under a round plastic cap. This filter is foam rubber and maybe clogged, allowing the egr to hang open. The egr itself code have carbon bits holding it open.

Not sure what you mean when you say stutter.
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I’m going to replace the EGR Valve next. It’s meeting all these symptoms.

IMG_1301.jpeg
 
The manifold passages maybe plugged too so thats a good time to get them opened back up.
 
Well new EGR made it better but not completely fixed. I’m gonna snatch the manifold off this weekend and see if the passages are blocked. Plus, it was real hard to get the inside nut very tight which I think could be part of the problem. When I took the old one off they were barely finger tight.
 
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I was able to tighten everything up this morning while it was cold and my son drove it to school with no issues so I think that was it....I hope that was it.

thanks for all the tips!
 
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