What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1989 Chevy K5 Silverado - Round 2

Overview Gallery Discussion
I was able to get some more work done today. 14FF is now under the truck with the detroit installed. I still need to get new u-bolts so it is just supported by jack stands for now. I also picked up a set of wheels that need a major scrubbing. These pics are after 2-3 rounds of scrubbing with an Eagle One Aluminum Wheel Cleaner. I am definitely going to need to replace these tires though. No usable tread left, but they will hold air long enough to finish up the work on the blazer.
 
Last edited:
I like it better with the factory rims on it, but it doesn't matter what I like since you do own it. :D
 
idk im all about haveing OE parts on my truck but those new rims gives it a kinda newer look to it. i like but thats just my .02
 
Your rig is looking better with the new lift. Get some good tires and it will look nice. Those rims are different from the norm, I think the look pretty good, they just need bigger tires.

Also, it looks like you need to go get some dually rear wheel studs from the parts store. Your studs are barely sticking out of the wheel, with disk brakes and aluminum wheels on a 14BFF you usually need the dually studs. You need a minimum length of thread engagement the same diameter as the stud for those steel nuts on steel wheels studs. That's not safe, your wheel could fall off. It's hard to measure because of the angles, so just count the turns to tighten the nut. You should have over 10 turns(preferably more) on a 9/16-18 stud.
 
folkenheath said:
You need a minimum length of thread engagement the same diameter as the stud for those steel nuts on steel wheels studs.
Click to expand...
The holes for the wheels are very deceiving in those pics. Partially because the wheel is not seated completely and partially because of the shadows in the deep recess. With the deep recess, I have do adequate thread engagement. 1X diameter is adequate for thread engagement in a manufactured nut, but I would also point out you want to use 1.5X diameter if you are talking about tapped holes in mild steel like A36.

Right now my plan was to run 33" tires until I could round up the parts for a regear, then go to 37's. But I don't like the looks of the 33's with the lift. I will probably end up putting another set of 37" HMMV radials on it and start getting the parts for a regear sooner than planned. OD will be useless with 4.10 gears and it is likely to burn up the 700R4 very quickly. Luckily it is not a daily driver, so it can sit most of the time until I get the right parts.
 
folkenheath said:
It's hard to measure because of the angles, so just count the turns to tighten the nut.
Click to expand...

Easy to measure with the right tools. Just use a depth gauge from the back side of the wheel where the surface is flat. for the thickness of the wheel, then subtract from the length of the stud protruding off the wheel mounting surface :D
 
kennyw said:
Easy to measure with the right tools. Just use a depth gauge from the back side of the wheel where the surface is flat. for the thickness of the wheel, then subtract from the length of the stud protruding off the wheel mounting surface :D
Click to expand...

If you hold the lugnut in there while you measure the wheel depth that might work. I was just saying it's hard to measure because of the taper on the lug nut and how deep it is going to go because the lug nut taper is also a little smaller than the ID of the stud hole in the wheel. So the easiest way is usually to just count the turns of the nut from started to tight and calculate the depth based on the thread pitch.(Unless you have some nice measuring equipment) But either way it sounds like you have it under control. The picture must be deceiving, also I remember when I converted mine to disks and put aluminum rims on the threads were only engaged about 5/16".
 
Factory rims as in what you have on the front right now. Factory Steelies lol
 
:doah: I am just realizing I haven't really touched the K5 since the middle of July! :doah:

But, mainly because I went out of town for work then brought my daughter out for the month of Aug. So I've been spending my free time with her. So it's not all bad. I still need to round up some parts to finish up the rear axle install and finish grinding the rivets off of the brackets for my shackle flip. I have one done, one to go.
 
Picking this one back up next week... sold it to a friend who removed the lift for his wife's kid. They stripped the interior down but didn't get much farther than that. The kid lost interest and bought a 90's Camaro instead. I completely forgot that I installed a detroit :doah:
 
Damn, that is dirty.

Still got the 3/4 tons under it?
 
Yep. Still has my old axles and it is filthy. The kid had it scrubbed clean about 1.5 years ago. It has been sitting since then.
 
Hopefully it's just dirty and not beat on.

Plans?
 
They never had it on the road after I sold it. The kid lost interest so my friend left it parked.

Main plan is to get it running good and cleaned up. Then install a lift and 35-36 tires. Then drive with the top off all summer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom