So the off road needles and seats, 2ea per carb
And jet kit for Edelbrock AFB knockoff
And jet kit for Edelbrock AFB knockoff
CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning
- Thread starter shima
- Start date
First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
It has been a while since I've updated the thread...
I got a bit of work done on this thing on Saturday and am feeling pretty good overall:
It has been my daily driver since Thanksgiving, so it felt really good to give it some TLC. When I was out there working, I thought of some other stuff that I wanted to do but just didn't get the time:
I got a bit of work done on this thing on Saturday and am feeling pretty good overall:
| Oil changed |
| Oil filter replaced |
| Zerk fittings greased |
| Power steering fluid topped off |
| Coolant reservoir refilled |
| Throttle linkage adjusted |
| Windshield wiper fluid refilled |
| U-bolts tightened - as hard as I could |
It has been my daily driver since Thanksgiving, so it felt really good to give it some TLC. When I was out there working, I thought of some other stuff that I wanted to do but just didn't get the time:
- Route spark plug wires thru separators
- @82355 I found the spark plug wire separators on my engine. Driver's side was super obvious, but the passenger side separators on my 350 are buried wayyyyyy back by the firewall.
- Rotate tires (horizontally)
- Tighten door rearview mirrors (hex bolt underneath)
- Get hardware for sun visors
The little things really help.
Martin
Martin
A handful of you helped me out through this mess, and I appreciate it as always.
I got the drained gas back into the tank and the second patch appears to be holding. I used these shop rags to filter the gas of major particles. The rags seemed to hold up okay. I am hoping that a bunch of rag fiber didn't get into the tank. We shall see.
Now, I suspect that my fuel gauge is off. It used to work prior to this episode so I am going to double-check to confirm it is off the next time I fill up the tank. I never disconnected the battery when doing all of this work, which was probably a mistake. I'll keep you all updated on it once I fill the tank back up again.
I got the drained gas back into the tank and the second patch appears to be holding. I used these shop rags to filter the gas of major particles. The rags seemed to hold up okay. I am hoping that a bunch of rag fiber didn't get into the tank. We shall see.
Now, I suspect that my fuel gauge is off. It used to work prior to this episode so I am going to double-check to confirm it is off the next time I fill up the tank. I never disconnected the battery when doing all of this work, which was probably a mistake. I'll keep you all updated on it once I fill the tank back up again.
It has been a while since I've checked in. I'm doing my best to troubleshoot a driveline vibration/noise that has developed recently on the Blazer.
Symptoms:
Symptoms:
- Loud drone sound that occurs when above 25-30 mph. I don't experience it when driving at slower speeds.
- Heavy body vibration (rear-view mirrors shake).
- Feels a little sluggish when accelerating under these conditions (no proof that it actually is, just feels that way).
- Cannot recreate the noise/vibration when revving the engine in neutral, so I don't think it is coming from the engine.
- Noise/vibration not present when rolling in neutral, so I don't think it is the wheel bearings or brakes.
- I looked for play in the rear driveshaft, and it was minimal from my point of view. I think I'll check again and record a video or something.
- The P.O. installed new 4.10 gearing about 15,000 miles ago, but I may change the rear diff fluid and check for metal shavings.
- May spray down the exhaust and look for leaks - wondering if a massive exhaust leak could cause symptoms like these?
Driveline including what? Engine-trans-tcase-driveshaft-axle? Or just driveshaft/axle?
T-case, driveshafts, diffs, axles, or wheel/tire. Usually a transmission won't cause a vibration unless really bad stuff is going on. Make sure you block your wheels and put it in neutral to check u-joints and pinion play so there's no load on it.
Sounds like driveshaft angles and or a u-joint going out. We can go for a spin and do some checking if you want.
Speed range seems odd to me though. Is the noise more on acceleration or deceleration?
Speed range seems odd to me though. Is the noise more on acceleration or deceleration?
Thanks @Truckman4life - I checked them before but it was definitely in park so I'll check them once more while in neutral.
@ZooMad75 it is on acceleration for sure. I'll check the u-joints once more and hit you up for a shakedown cruise if they seem fine.
I finally pulled some codes too... three came back. I am going to look into those as well after I finish up some work on my girlfriend's Jeep.
Codes:
24
32
43
That damn EGR code has been there forever. I need to finally get serious about fixing it.
@ZooMad75 it is on acceleration for sure. I'll check the u-joints once more and hit you up for a shakedown cruise if they seem fine.
I finally pulled some codes too... three came back. I am going to look into those as well after I finish up some work on my girlfriend's Jeep.
Codes:
24
32
43
That damn EGR code has been there forever. I need to finally get serious about fixing it.
I wouldn't worry to much about it, code 32 can be huge pita to fix. might have to bake the intake and clean out the passages. 43 is fuel code, 24 escapes me atm
Finally got the Blazer pulled into the garage. Hoping to look at it this week.
I took a quick peek under it this evening when I pulled it into the garage. It sounds like there is an intermittent popping noise coming from beneath my foot when I drive it. So I looked beneath to see if there was anything obvious. Nothing stood out, but I found a nasty leak by the rear body mount on the driver's side. Looking up at that thing from beneath, the whole alrea was soaked. It actually looks like the metal around the body mount is rusting away as well.
I'm worried but won't have time to look at it closer until tomorrow. I'll snap some pics and post up with whatever I can find on it.
I took a quick peek under it this evening when I pulled it into the garage. It sounds like there is an intermittent popping noise coming from beneath my foot when I drive it. So I looked beneath to see if there was anything obvious. Nothing stood out, but I found a nasty leak by the rear body mount on the driver's side. Looking up at that thing from beneath, the whole alrea was soaked. It actually looks like the metal around the body mount is rusting away as well.
I'm worried but won't have time to look at it closer until tomorrow. I'll snap some pics and post up with whatever I can find on it.
I got out into the garage last night and I think I found the culprit of the driveline vibration. One of my u-joint caps (t-case side) is destroyed.
Here are some videos:
Looking back on it, I feel pretty stupid for not noticing this earlier. There had been a loud CLUNK when putting the truck into reverse for a while and I just didn't think much of it. When looking into the symptoms of a bad u-joint, that's basically the first thing that people mention.
At least I found it before it totally disintegrated...
Anyhow, I'm now shopping for new u-joints. I'm going to replace both. When looking at other CK5 threads, it seems like most people say that the non-greaseable is the way to go because it is structurally stronger than a greaseable joint. I do wheel this thing from time to time so perhaps that's the way to go for me.
I found these at AutoZone, what do you guys think?
Moog Super Strength 234
Some other old threads were chatting about Spicer u-joints, but I haven't looked into those yet. I just want something that will be hassle free for the next 100,000 miles or so.
Here are some videos:
Looking back on it, I feel pretty stupid for not noticing this earlier. There had been a loud CLUNK when putting the truck into reverse for a while and I just didn't think much of it. When looking into the symptoms of a bad u-joint, that's basically the first thing that people mention.
At least I found it before it totally disintegrated...
Anyhow, I'm now shopping for new u-joints. I'm going to replace both. When looking at other CK5 threads, it seems like most people say that the non-greaseable is the way to go because it is structurally stronger than a greaseable joint. I do wheel this thing from time to time so perhaps that's the way to go for me.
I found these at AutoZone, what do you guys think?
Moog Super Strength 234
Some other old threads were chatting about Spicer u-joints, but I haven't looked into those yet. I just want something that will be hassle free for the next 100,000 miles or so.
I go with greasable u-joints for my drive shafts. I want it to be the so-called fusible link in my drivetrain.
That honestly makes a lot of sense.
If I went greaseable, then I think I'd be looking at this one:
Moog Super Strength 235
Does the u-joint on the t-case side differ from the u-joint on the axle side? The description for these things on the AutoZone website appears to imply that they're the same.
If I went greaseable, then I think I'd be looking at this one:
Moog Super Strength 235
Does the u-joint on the t-case side differ from the u-joint on the axle side? The description for these things on the AutoZone website appears to imply that they're the same.
In theory they should be the same. But double check what you have on there. There are conversion u joints available.
And I buy Spicer when I can.
And I buy Spicer when I can.
I kinda prefer non-greasable because I know I'll get lazy about keeping up on greasing things. I especially look at non-greasable for front driveshaft and axle shafts.
It is a coin flip geasable or not.
If you get your rig muddy and wet a lot geasable is the way to go. After a wet muddy run gease them get the dirt and moisture out.
Nice and dry no river crossing like where I live, non geasable.
Pay attention to which side the lube zerk goes on the geasable ones. Can only access the zerk if installed in the correct direction.
Moog has been a good quality parts mfg, in the past, but I haven't used much of their stuff lately.
Spicer is my 1st choice as well.
If you get your rig muddy and wet a lot geasable is the way to go. After a wet muddy run gease them get the dirt and moisture out.
Nice and dry no river crossing like where I live, non geasable.
Pay attention to which side the lube zerk goes on the geasable ones. Can only access the zerk if installed in the correct direction.
Moog has been a good quality parts mfg, in the past, but I haven't used much of their stuff lately.
Spicer is my 1st choice as well.
I believe all Spicer ujoints are non greasable
