Go for it. Don't be scared away because of the driveshaft. Everything people have said here is true but there are ranges of vibration involved here. You may be fine, no vibration. You may have a vibration that is present at 45mph but not at 60mph. You may have a severe vibration at 70mph but nothing at 50mph. Chances are that you can do a shackle flip and then drive home fine. You may need to take 85 south slowly instead of hammering down I-25 but you will still get home.
The diagram shown is a great way to understand angles and vibration, but it has no guarantees. I have a rear shaft with non- parallel angles and no CV, big 1410 joints. Its ok, does 70 down the highway fine. Nobody has a front CV joint driveshaft with the pinion pointing straight at the t-case, its just not possible without a custom axle. I can run down dirt roads at 50mph in 4wd without a weird vibration in the front. Until you build it you just won't know.
Custom driveshafts are roughly $500. I had a damaged 2 piece one in my crew cab rebuilt by Northern Colorado driveline in Greely for about $500. That included a new rear yoke welded on, 3 new u-joints and balance the whole thing. The new Tom Woods front in my K5 has a 1350 CV at the t-case and a 1410 joint at the axle, it was $550 and I had it in 4 days. My rear is 1410/1410, it was about $450 and also 4 days.
The slip yoke eliminator is another concern but what's the option here? Don't do the project? When you start down the path of "build something sweet" there will be day projects and other longer projects that take a couple weeks. Its the difference between taking the whole thing apart for a full build that sits in the garage for 2 years or just building as you go. Keeping it on the road and tackling projects like you have been is the best way I think. Helps prevent losing motivation on the giant project in the garage.
The diagram shown is a great way to understand angles and vibration, but it has no guarantees. I have a rear shaft with non- parallel angles and no CV, big 1410 joints. Its ok, does 70 down the highway fine. Nobody has a front CV joint driveshaft with the pinion pointing straight at the t-case, its just not possible without a custom axle. I can run down dirt roads at 50mph in 4wd without a weird vibration in the front. Until you build it you just won't know.
Custom driveshafts are roughly $500. I had a damaged 2 piece one in my crew cab rebuilt by Northern Colorado driveline in Greely for about $500. That included a new rear yoke welded on, 3 new u-joints and balance the whole thing. The new Tom Woods front in my K5 has a 1350 CV at the t-case and a 1410 joint at the axle, it was $550 and I had it in 4 days. My rear is 1410/1410, it was about $450 and also 4 days.
The slip yoke eliminator is another concern but what's the option here? Don't do the project? When you start down the path of "build something sweet" there will be day projects and other longer projects that take a couple weeks. Its the difference between taking the whole thing apart for a full build that sits in the garage for 2 years or just building as you go. Keeping it on the road and tackling projects like you have been is the best way I think. Helps prevent losing motivation on the giant project in the garage.
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Yeah more eyes and experience to at least figure out the plan into future mod and updates.
