You're not in California why would they?
CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning
- Thread starter shima
- Start date
First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
This patch is just to prove the concept, right? I assume you're still planning to replace at least that manifold. Even in your second picture, it looks like the putty is already cracked through. That flashing has got to go away. I know the advice has been given here to run them without gaskets, but it's possible the surfaces are too pitted from years of leaking or they are too warped.
You might see if anybody here parting out a truck has good used manifolds. You could also go to something different, but it makes sense to sort that out before or during the exhaust upgrade, as new pipes opens up options.
- Joined
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They will require carb compliant since colorado adopted their standards. Thanks gov
That means 2-3x the $$ must have been the mushrooms
I know the rules changed January 1, 2021 and I bought this cat in 2020, but I passed emissions in Colorado just fine with it.
Walker Exhaust Standard EPA 15038 Universal Catalytic Converter 2.5" Inlet (Inside) 2.5" Outlet (Inside) https://a.co/d/7FWbyik
Just food for thought
Walker Exhaust Standard EPA 15038 Universal Catalytic Converter 2.5" Inlet (Inside) 2.5" Outlet (Inside) https://a.co/d/7FWbyik
Just food for thought
only difference in Carb and any other cat in the free part of the country is a serial number, the price, and the Kommiefornia paper work to get the serial number
Yep, I promise to replace the manifolds. I'm definitely guilty of trying to find the cheapest way of doing things... but it has to actually *work*. I am guessing that I could just replace my manifold gaskets and could keep running it that way... but since my manifolds have cracks and I have to remove them to replace the gaskets anyhow... will definitely swap them out.
My girlfriend's XJ just went through emissions. It has a basic Walker cat, same as @regal403. Passed just fine. They absolutely do not check to verify that the cat is CARB-compliant.
I guess so long as the CARB-compliant cats do not restrict horsepower significantly, I don't care. But if someone on here were to tell me that running a CARB-compliant cat will reduce my horsepower significantly then I would buy a different cat online and have a friend weld it in.
That's awesome, thanks so much @Capt Ron!! Shoot me your price and I can pick them up today (or whenever is convenient for you).
Grab the bolts and the washers. Those washers are special don't loose them.
Skip the gaskets
Skip the gaskets
I had a great experience with Lakewood Muffler on Friday.
When I went to pick up the Blazer, they initially told me that their only recommendation was for my muffler to be replaced. I questioned the cat, and one of the techs claimed that the old pancake-style cats do not clog up like honeycomb cats do. I don't know whether that's actually true, but I went ahead and reminded them that I was looking to modernize my whole exhaust (manifold-back). They ran some numbers for a 3" single with a new Y-pipe, cat, and muffler. It came out to $2000 with almost $1000 of it being the new cat.
I told them that I would mull it over. I asked them whether they would install a non-CARB cat if I could get my hands on it. They told me that they couldn't do it legally... but if someone else installed the non-CARB cat then they could do the new exhaust and "build around it". That was encouraging to hear and it might be the path that I follow.
Their inspection didn't cost me anything and they sent along a list of things that they think I should do on the Blazer. While I probably won't address most of these things for a long time, I appreciate them sending along the list. It's a long one:
Suggested Service Date: 11/10/2023
- BATTERY TESTS BAD, RECOMMEND REPLACEMENT
- DUE FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL FLUID CHANGE PER MILEAGE. RECOMMEND DRAIN, COVER RESEAL AND FILL - REAR DIFFERENTIAL FLUID CHANGE PER MILEAGE. RECOMMEND FLUID DRAIN, COVER RESEAL AND FILL.
- FRONT BRAKE PADS GETTING LOW, RECOMMEND CHECK AGAIN AT NEXT SERVICE
- FRONT TIMING COVER HAS MINOR LEAK (2/5)
- LEFT REAR AXLE SEAL HAS MINOR LEAK (2/5)
- REAR PINION SEAL HAS MINOR LEAK (2/5)
- RECOMMEND REPLACING MUFFLER AND TAILPIPE WITH SINGLE 3 INCH
- RECOMMEND REPLACING OIL PAN GASKET WITH TIMING COVER AT SAME TIME. - RECOMMEND PRESSURE TEST TO DETERMINE COOLANT LEAK. - RECOMMEND PULLING BELLHOUSING COVER TO VERIFY REAR MAIN LEAK.
- RECOMMEND REPLACING POWER STEERING PUMP - RECOMMEND REPLACING GASKET ON FUEL PUMP BLOCK OFF PLATE - RECOMMEND PULLING FUEL TANK TO LOOK FOR LEAKS. IT LOOKS LIKE IT HAS BEEN REPAIRED BEFORE
- RIGHT FRONT MARKER BULB OUT - LICENSE PLATE BULB OUT
- TRANSFER CASE REAR OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL LEAKING. RECOMMEND SEAL REPLACEMENT. - DRIVESHAFT YOKE IS LEAKING. IT ALMOST LOOKS LIKE THRE DRIVE SHAFT IS TO SHORT. YOKE WILL NEED REPLACED. POSSIBLE LONGER DRIVESHAFT
- TRANSMISSION PAN GASKET AND DRAIN PLUG LEAKING. RECOMMEND REPLACING TRANSMISSION PAN
When I went to pick up the Blazer, they initially told me that their only recommendation was for my muffler to be replaced. I questioned the cat, and one of the techs claimed that the old pancake-style cats do not clog up like honeycomb cats do. I don't know whether that's actually true, but I went ahead and reminded them that I was looking to modernize my whole exhaust (manifold-back). They ran some numbers for a 3" single with a new Y-pipe, cat, and muffler. It came out to $2000 with almost $1000 of it being the new cat.
I told them that I would mull it over. I asked them whether they would install a non-CARB cat if I could get my hands on it. They told me that they couldn't do it legally... but if someone else installed the non-CARB cat then they could do the new exhaust and "build around it". That was encouraging to hear and it might be the path that I follow.
Their inspection didn't cost me anything and they sent along a list of things that they think I should do on the Blazer. While I probably won't address most of these things for a long time, I appreciate them sending along the list. It's a long one:
Suggested Service Date: 11/10/2023
- BATTERY TESTS BAD, RECOMMEND REPLACEMENT
- DUE FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL FLUID CHANGE PER MILEAGE. RECOMMEND DRAIN, COVER RESEAL AND FILL - REAR DIFFERENTIAL FLUID CHANGE PER MILEAGE. RECOMMEND FLUID DRAIN, COVER RESEAL AND FILL.
- FRONT BRAKE PADS GETTING LOW, RECOMMEND CHECK AGAIN AT NEXT SERVICE
- FRONT TIMING COVER HAS MINOR LEAK (2/5)
- LEFT REAR AXLE SEAL HAS MINOR LEAK (2/5)
- REAR PINION SEAL HAS MINOR LEAK (2/5)
- RECOMMEND REPLACING MUFFLER AND TAILPIPE WITH SINGLE 3 INCH
- RECOMMEND REPLACING OIL PAN GASKET WITH TIMING COVER AT SAME TIME. - RECOMMEND PRESSURE TEST TO DETERMINE COOLANT LEAK. - RECOMMEND PULLING BELLHOUSING COVER TO VERIFY REAR MAIN LEAK.
- RECOMMEND REPLACING POWER STEERING PUMP - RECOMMEND REPLACING GASKET ON FUEL PUMP BLOCK OFF PLATE - RECOMMEND PULLING FUEL TANK TO LOOK FOR LEAKS. IT LOOKS LIKE IT HAS BEEN REPAIRED BEFORE
- RIGHT FRONT MARKER BULB OUT - LICENSE PLATE BULB OUT
- TRANSFER CASE REAR OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL LEAKING. RECOMMEND SEAL REPLACEMENT. - DRIVESHAFT YOKE IS LEAKING. IT ALMOST LOOKS LIKE THRE DRIVE SHAFT IS TO SHORT. YOKE WILL NEED REPLACED. POSSIBLE LONGER DRIVESHAFT
- TRANSMISSION PAN GASKET AND DRAIN PLUG LEAKING. RECOMMEND REPLACING TRANSMISSION PAN
Quite the list, almost as good as raise the radiator cap and drive a new car under it.
Obviously much of that you can do. The diff oil change might be a good idea if you haven't done that yet. Cause nobody thinks about dirty diff oil, except us.
I bet if you clear the diff vent the rear axle leaks will stop.
Light bulbs no sweat. The drive shaft yoke is leaking, not sure how. If they mean the tail shaft seal is leaking, then a new seal and bushing may be in order. I suppose the yoke could be worn and in need of replacement, again a job you have the skills for.
Unless the trans pan is bent severely, don't understand their recommendations for a new pan. If you decide on a new pan get a Derale cool pan, again not beyond your skill set.
To bad about the carb B's that is 300 cat any where else. Good exhaust work is spendy so I am surprised. I am not happy with my 300 dollar exhaust job.
Obviously much of that you can do. The diff oil change might be a good idea if you haven't done that yet. Cause nobody thinks about dirty diff oil, except us.
I bet if you clear the diff vent the rear axle leaks will stop.
Light bulbs no sweat. The drive shaft yoke is leaking, not sure how. If they mean the tail shaft seal is leaking, then a new seal and bushing may be in order. I suppose the yoke could be worn and in need of replacement, again a job you have the skills for.
Unless the trans pan is bent severely, don't understand their recommendations for a new pan. If you decide on a new pan get a Derale cool pan, again not beyond your skill set.
To bad about the carb B's that is 300 cat any where else. Good exhaust work is spendy so I am surprised. I am not happy with my 300 dollar exhaust job.
$600 difference between epa, and carb.
Check if rockauto will ship the epa one to you.
They will not ship it to California.
I usually ship them to my friend in Reno
They won't ship them to Colorado, at least for an '06 vehicle. A friend found this out, even here in emissions exempt Western Colorado. His customer had to go through the dealer for a $1500 CARB complaint one, even though it was sold new here with Federal emissions.
Even the suppliers we buy from will not send a federal cat to us. Though if you got a buddy in Wyoming nothing is stopping you from getting it shipped there and picking it up.
As far as the list goes, no surprise there. It’s their job to find stuff to upsell. We all know darn well the techs that work there would blow those leaks off if it was their truck. Are they leaving drips or puddles?
Were they reaching a bit? For sure. But you only get people to buy if you tell them what is going on. From a shop’s perspective giving a full work up also prevents some “Karen” types (female or male) from coming back later and either blaming the shop for an issue that the customer thinks they caused or just gripe that they should have been told about it.
Bottom line is the truck is old. They always need something. Short of the exhaust work you can do all that work. The timing cover, oil pan and rear main seal leaks would have to be pretty bad for me to worry about it.
I’ve never heard the pancake style cats being less prone to clogging up than any other. I’m not sure if that was a back handed way to steer you into not putting on a modern yet more expensive California version. I think exhaust shops around here are just as annoyed about the carb required crap as all of us are. I’m betting they are catching a lot more flack about high prices, even more so with the rash of cat thefts that’s been going on lately.
Nothing is wrong with upgrading the exhaust if you want to. With or without the carb compliant cat. Since it’s a Tbi 350 the difference in flow is not going to be huge on HP gains or fuel economy.
As far as the list goes, no surprise there. It’s their job to find stuff to upsell. We all know darn well the techs that work there would blow those leaks off if it was their truck. Are they leaving drips or puddles?
Were they reaching a bit? For sure. But you only get people to buy if you tell them what is going on. From a shop’s perspective giving a full work up also prevents some “Karen” types (female or male) from coming back later and either blaming the shop for an issue that the customer thinks they caused or just gripe that they should have been told about it.
Bottom line is the truck is old. They always need something. Short of the exhaust work you can do all that work. The timing cover, oil pan and rear main seal leaks would have to be pretty bad for me to worry about it.
I’ve never heard the pancake style cats being less prone to clogging up than any other. I’m not sure if that was a back handed way to steer you into not putting on a modern yet more expensive California version. I think exhaust shops around here are just as annoyed about the carb required crap as all of us are. I’m betting they are catching a lot more flack about high prices, even more so with the rash of cat thefts that’s been going on lately.
Nothing is wrong with upgrading the exhaust if you want to. With or without the carb compliant cat. Since it’s a Tbi 350 the difference in flow is not going to be huge on HP gains or fuel economy.
I have seen plenty of cherry red plugged pancake cat in my day. I fact a backed up cat may be contributing to your egr and cracking exhaust manifolds. probably should do what you gotta do to get new cat on that rig soonish
I'm a buddy in Wyoming. If it helps I can hold a cat for pickup or forward it on to you.
Man, I love this community... thanks so much @HankScorpio. I'll shoot you a DM once I figure out what cat I want to order.
Stupid question time:
Lakewood Muffler recommended a single 3" exhaust system. They said that they could build around whichever cat was already on the truck. So now I need to buy a cat and have a friend weld it in. It looks like all of the OEM cat options on RockAuto are 3". Why do some people choose to go with 2.5"? Did OEM used to be 2.5" on earlier years?
Second stupid question:
I am going to look for the absolute cheapest 3" EPA-compliant cat I can find because I presume it won't meaningfully affect horsepower, sound, etc. Would you guys do the same?
A single 3” system for a stock Tbi 350 is more than enough. However don’t get too hung up on hp and flow numbers because the 350 isn’t going to going to get big gains from either 3” single or dual 2.5’s. The 350 don’t need much. Honestly you could get away with only the cat and no muffler at all, just a full length tailpipe. My dad did that to one of his El Camino’s and it was surprisingly not loud nor aggressive sounding. Though I’d use a performance muffler just to get some good sound/tone.
Thrush welded muffler gets my vote. You’ve heard mine.
As far as cats go I’m not seeing many with 3” inlet/outlets. Flowmaster has 2230130 with 3” inlets and outlets. My distributor is out of stock.
Or flowmaster has another under pn 2250230 and it is more factory looking and less racy than the first one. It’s also out of stock.
That will get you a head start on the looking up side.
I am thinking your y pipe now, and the new one will not be 3". Not sure how close you cat is to the end of the y pipe. Is there room for a 2.25-2.5 to 3" extension ?
I should go out and measure...
If it is currently 2.5" (or even smaller), I should probably ask my welder whether that will cause him problems. I figure that I need to order a 3" cat if Lakewood Muffler is going for a single 3" system in the future.
If it is currently 2.5" (or even smaller), I should probably ask my welder whether that will cause him problems. I figure that I need to order a 3" cat if Lakewood Muffler is going for a single 3" system in the future.
