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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Guys I'm finally trying to get this power steering pump pulley off. It's an absolute bear. The thing is making loud pops as I go along... is this normal?? I'm trying to make sure that the tool is centered. I knew I was weak but I'm having to use a breaker bar each time I crank on it.

Video attached, hopefully you can hear the banging.

View attachment PXL_20240608_203147007.mp4
 
Working away on the manifolds...

I bolted up the new (to me) manifold on the driver's side without taking note of how many studs it had in it. So now I've got two studs up in the manifold and three still attached to the ring that bolts up there.

PXL_20240616_033141600.jpg

I've sprayed them with penetrating oil and am trying to use vice grips to keep them in place so that I can try spinning the nut off of them. It ain't working. If anyone has tips let me know. I think tomorrow if I don't get them off then I'm going to try cutting the studs off of the ring. Looks like it's pretty easy to pick up replacements from the parts store.
 
there needs to be 3 studs for the new manifold. If the nuts are that rusted, just cut the studs to remove from head pipe flange.
Get a new stud
 
I’d get three new studs/nuts/ washers to put in the manifold. Dorman sells a kit with everything per side and they have nice taller than normal brass nuts that don’t seize up like regular steel nuts do. If there is enough room I put a regular nut on after the brass one to double nut it.
 
I have never had good luck with brass nuts on exhaust studs. They seem to come loose. The double nut is necessary. Personally I use grade 8 prevailing torque lock nuts. New studs are recommended, providing you believe you can remove the old studs. If they're F'd up well then you have to, if the they're ok then is your call.
 
Wes Harden said:
I have never had good luck with brass nuts on exhaust studs. They seem to come loose. The double nut is necessary. Personally I use grade 8 prevailing torque lock nuts. New studs are recommended, providing you believe you can remove the old studs. If they're F'd up well then you have to, if the they're ok then is your call.
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That’s precisely why I double nut them. But once the double is removed the brass nut will always be able to be removed.
 
Getting my ass handed to me on the manifolds.
  • Rob came by a while ago and loaned me a dremel. Used it to cut off the studs that were trapped on the driver's side exhaust downpipe ring.
  • We moved to the passenger side manifold and tried to get the old studs out because we wanted to replace them with new studs from the parts store. We snapped the first stud... tried extracting it... and ended up breaking some of Rob's extractor stuff.
  • I decide to get a new manifold, so I buy another off of FB marketplace. "Mile High square body" for any of the Colorado guys. The seller Maxx was super nice. I get over to his place and pull the manifold. I look inside the open stud hole and I see threads in there so I think I'm good to go. The manifold metal looks to be in great condition.
  • Get home to install the second new-to-me manifold on the passenger side. The threads are still there for a new stud but I find that they're screwed up as well. I must not have looked at them closely enough.
  • I go to Home Depot and buy a 3/8-16 tap. I use cutting oil and heat but just cannot get it to bite into the cast iron.
I got so frustrated last night that I just decided to step away. I walked right inside and bought brand new Dorman manifolds (driver and passenger) off of RockAuto. They get here on 7/3. They come with all new hardware (and even new donuts)... so hopefully I will be good to go once they arrive. I don't want to jynx it though. This job has sucked.
 
shima said:
Getting my ass handed to me on the manifolds.
  • Rob came by a while ago and loaned me a dremel. Used it to cut off the studs that were trapped on the driver's side exhaust downpipe ring.
  • We moved to the passenger side manifold and tried to get the old studs out because we wanted to replace them with new studs from the parts store. We snapped the first stud... tried extracting it... and ended up breaking some of Rob's extractor stuff.
  • I decide to get a new manifold, so I buy another off of FB marketplace. "Mile High square body" for any of the Colorado guys. The seller Maxx was super nice. I get over to his place and pull the manifold. I look inside the open stud hole and I see threads in there so I think I'm good to go. The manifold metal looks to be in great condition.
  • Get home to install the second new-to-me manifold on the passenger side. The threads are still there for a new stud but I find that they're screwed up as well. I must not have looked at them closely enough.
  • I go to Home Depot and buy a 3/8-16 tap. I use cutting oil and heat but just cannot get it to bite into the cast iron.
I got so frustrated last night that I just decided to step away. I walked right inside and bought brand new Dorman manifolds (driver and passenger) off of RockAuto. They get here on 7/3. They come with all new hardware (and even new donuts)... so hopefully I will be good to go once they arrive. I don't want to jynx it though. This job has sucked.
Click to expand...
Welcome to the home of DYI
You win some, you lose some
 
imiceman44 said:
Welcome to the home of DYI
You win some, you lose some
Click to expand...

Sometimes I wonder if I have the chops. I have been working on my own stuff for about 7 years now but I still get so fired up when hitting challenges. "Everything's a hassle."
 
shima said:
Sometimes I wonder if I have the chops. I have been working on my own stuff for about 7 years now but I still get so fired up when hitting challenges. "Everything's a hassle."
Click to expand...
I have been doing it for 52 years and I still have these moments.
Yesterday I was supposed to have a simple task:
Load my suburban in my newly acquired moving van.
I built a nice sturdy ramp from gluelam 2x12, got the supported well at the half point so I only had 4 feet of span, got them strapped securely to the back of the van so they don't slip off, I get up and it stalls just before I get all the way in, so I back up and I give it another try with a hint more gas and it's going good and then crash I come down.
Driver side ramp broke 2 feet from the edge, leaving that tire hanging out and the aluminum steps I have are crushed under the truck.
Luckily I am getting rid of the steps and they protected the truck from damage.
So I go borrow the forklift from my landlord and I lift the hanging back end up and start pushing it in, and for some reason the front end is drifting right into the wall and it was stuck 1 foot too early.
I back it up a little and turn the back end the opposite way and I get it in, but not with hearing some crunching.
I will assess another day, but I might have side swiped my perfect square body suburban.
Stick with it and in the end you will be proud
 
shima said:
Sometimes I wonder if I have the chops. I have been working on my own stuff for about 7 years now but I still get so fired up when hitting challenges. "Everything's a hassle."
Click to expand...
This a difficult task, removing/extracting rusted exhaust studs. Not something I care to do, and I am reasonably good at it.
Not sure what hardware Dorman is providing, but it is important to use the thick washers on the manifoldvto head bolts.

Don't let this get to you.
You'll beat it.
Has the cat ever been inspected or replaced? If it is backing up the higher heat in manifold can cause cracking/blueing
 
Wes Harden said:
This a difficult task, removing/extracting rusted exhaust studs. Not something I care to do, and I am reasonably good at it.
Not sure what hardware Dorman is providing, but it is important to use the thick washers on the manifoldvto head bolts.

Don't let this get to you.
You'll beat it.
Has the cat ever been inspected or replaced? If it is backing up the higher heat in manifold can cause cracking/blueing
Click to expand...

Yeah, I got the cat replaced recently with Scott's help. We ended up doing manifold-back. It sounds great now. I'm excited to hear it again because it has been "down" for 2+ months now.

Thanks guys for the encouragement. Sometimes it just feels good to come on here and vent.
 
Here's a picture from me getting the manifolds off my 8.1L. We all feel your pain.

20200310_161526-jpg.332405
 
Now I am for sure dreading doing my 8.1.

Don't understand this 8mm stud bs. Should be 3/8ths or 10 mm. Damn bean counters
 
Yeah, the LS vortec studs are super easy to get out, usually just one weld and it can't stick to the aluminum heads, but the 8.1L has iron heads. Yours probably hasn't been salted, though.
 
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