1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

[cheavyk10]

3r is the 1330.

Close but no. 1330 uses external snap rings. 3r uses internal.

• 1330 series dimensions​
  • 3.625 inches wide
  • bearing caps are 1.0625 inch diameter
  • outside snap rings​
• GM 3R series dimensions​
  • 3.625 inches wide​
  • bearing caps are 1.125 inch diameter with inside "C" Clips to lock the cap in place.​

I stole this info straight from the Denny's driveshaft site.

 

[imiceman44]

Close but no. 1330 uses external snap rings. 3r uses internal.

• 1330 series dimensions​
  • 3.625 inches wide
  • bearing caps are 1.0625 inch diameter
  • outside snap rings​
• GM 3R series dimensions​
  • 3.625 inches wide​
  • bearing caps are 1.125 inch diameter with inside "C" Clips to lock the cap in place.​

I stole this info straight from the Denny's driveshaft site.

Ok so dimensions are the same

 

[imiceman44]

Ok so dimensions are the same

Oh I take it back, different cap size.
One is 1 1/8"
One is 1 1/16"

 

[Blue85]

I don't see any ears on the axle yoke, which implies it's set up for inside snap rings.

My '85 K5 had the 3r joints from the factory. I can tell that's what you had too from the pic above because of the internal snap rings.

Right. Can anybody post a link to where mid-late 80's 10-bolt axle yokes use 3r? (I always have this vain hope that people will search...)

 

[cheavyk10]

Right. Can anybody post a link to where mid-late 80's 10-bolt axle yokes use 3r? (I always have this vain hope that people will search...)

I just sold the 10 bolts that were in my truck or I could of measured for you.

 

[imiceman44]

Right. Can anybody post a link to where mid-late 80's 10-bolt axle yokes use 3r? (I always have this vain hope that people will search...)

I only have the front 10 bolt, I can check that.
My rear is a 14bsf

 

[Blue85]

It's been a long time, but I really think the yoke on a rear 10-bolt is different than the one on the front. The front is 1310, isn't it?

 

[cheavyk10]

It's been a long time, but I really think the yoke on a rear 10-bolt is different than the one on the front. The front is 1310, isn't it?

I concur. Every 10 bolt front I have worked on is 1310.
Rear 10 bolts can vary. For example, my 84' K10 longbed with a sm465 had a 1350 rear shaft. Auto versions of the same truck got smaller u-joints.

 

[Fastereddie]

The 10-bolts out of my 1990 1500 burb
with the 465 manual are 1310 front and 1350 rear.

 

[shima]

On Sunday, I got Rob's old driveshaft installed. He actually rolled by my garage while I was out working... so we got to hang out a bit.

We went for a ride once everything was in place and jumped onto I-25. It felt pretty damn good - we got the Blazer up to 70mph or so. We might have touched 75mph - I can't remember. I don't need to go any faster than that anyhow.

When decelerating/cruising... and the speedo shows 65mph (probably 58ish real mph)... I can definitely feel a shake. It's not awful but it is there. I think for now I am happy to just continue running it and to just avoid that specific speed. Maybe one day I get a custom driveshaft or a CV or whatever. For now I just want to drive it.

Tonight, I got some good work done:

• I tightened up the t-case crossmember bolts and used blue loctite on em. I'll get some good steel spacers soon but I wanted to make sure it's tight and it has the best chance of staying tight.
• I tightened up my exhaust downpipe bolts. I can hear an exhaust leak on the driver's side and it is annoying as hell. I know that the manifold bolts are tight and the downpipe bolts are tight... just gotta keep chasing that one I guess (if I continue to hear it).
• I located and checked/cleaned all of my ground connections...

GROUND CONNECTION	NOTES
Negative Battery Cable --> Engine	The engine connection was on the intake right by the coolant temp sensor. I pulled the stud all the way out and cleaned everything thoroughly. I leaked a little coolant but overal this went fine.
Negative Battery Cable --> Core Support	This connection was already pretty clean, but I used a wire brush and got it all fresh.
Firewall --> Engine	This connection is at the back of the intake by where the distributor and coil sit. The intake port where the screw threads in was actually painted over... so I sanded it to clean metal and reconnected everything.
Firewall --> Frame	This connection was already pretty clean, but I used a wire bush and got it all fresh.

For anyone out there reading this that may not understand the basics of automotive grounding (like me two nights ago), this video on YouTube is really fantastic (in my opinion) and it helped the lightbulb go off for me mentally.

I didn't go for a test drive tonight... I am going to let that blue loctite seal up. I am going to take it out tomorrow night and I'll report back.

Next up:

• Ignition Control Module (rough idle parts cannon)
• Throttle Position Sensor (rough idle parts cannon)

 

[cheavyk10]

Welp, what U-joint was the correct one?

 

[shima]

Welp, what U-joint was the correct one?

You and @Blue85 totally nailed it. It was the 3R.

 

[shima]

Reflecting on my grounds... I had a few questions for you guys. Just curious about some stuff.

1. I would have expected to find a ground connection on the block of the motor... is it "weird" or "bad" that both of my engine ground connections were on the intake?
2. The ground connection "hole" on the back of the intake (by the distributor) was painted orange. I have to imagine that was causing some sort of issue because the coil mounts to that location and so does a ground strap (other side of the ground strap attaches to firewall). My K5 definitely ran prior to cleaning the ground connection... but wouldn't the paint cause interference?
3. I have not reset my IAC in quite some time. Now that I have a new exhaust and new O2 sensors and freshly-cleaned grounds... would resetting be a good idea?

 

[imiceman44]

Reflecting on my grounds... I had a few questions for you guys. Just curious about some stuff.

1. I would have expected to find a ground connection on the block of the motor... is it "weird" or "bad" that both of my engine ground connections were on the intake?
2. The ground connection "hole" on the back of the intake (by the distributor) was painted orange. I have to imagine that was causing some sort of issue because the coil mounts to that location and so does a ground strap (other side of the ground strap attaches to firewall). My K5 definitely ran prior to cleaning the ground connection... but wouldn't the paint cause interference?
3. I have not reset my IAC in quite some time. Now that I have a new exhaust and new O2 sensors and freshly-cleaned grounds... would resetting be a good idea?

1. Anywhere on the engine is on the engine, I would usually put grounds on opposite sides of the engine just because.

2. I have cleaned grounds that had paint under them on the engine and it did improve the contact, but the contact was there because the cable still had contact from the top at the nut coming through the bolt into the engine. On sheet metal it's a different matter because the contact is just the thread on the sheet metal screw which isn't enough so a clean surface is more critical.

3. I have never done any calibration on mine because it was working, but the fact you had problems and now you changed some conditions, it would make sense to redo the calibration

 

[shima]

Thank you very much @imiceman44 !!!

 

[Capt Ron]

I feel your battery ground should be as close to the starter as possible. Big trucks and heavy equipment, both 12 and 24 volt have there grounds actually attached to the starter.

 

[imiceman44]

I feel your battery ground should be as close to the starter as possible. Big trucks and heavy equipment, both 12 and 24 volt have there grounds actually attached to the starter.

Yeah my big rig has a ground directly from battery to starter

 

[shima]

Could someone please post the IAC reset procedure?

I'm seeing a few online but they are different from one another. I tried one from a thread here and it has you start the truck with the IAC disconnected. Mine fires off but won't run. My throttle plates are completely closed so it makes sense... I just don't remember running into this problem in the past.

 

[shima]

Fellas I am sure this is a dumb question so I'm gonna go ahead and apologize but I could use your help because I'm trying to determine if I need to mess with the minimum air screw on the TBI unit (mine is still plugged off from the factory).

When firing off the engine after resetting the IAC, the IAC is disconnected and completely closed. My throttle plates are also completely closed. So it makes sense that the engine is dying immediately.

When doing this procedure do I have to feather the throttle to keep the engine running so that the IAC can adjust itself? OR do I need to get behind that factory block-off and mess with the minimum air screw on the TBI?

All of the videos online just show the engine firing up and running fine without folks having to feather the throttle. So something is different in my case and I'm trying to figure out what is best. I have understood that the throttle plates are supposed to be completely closed when you're not on the throttle... but from what I understand, that makes this procedure impossible without feathering the throttle.

Tagging @Bent77 here (sorry Mark) because he helped me with the IAC reset procedure in the past (thanks Mark).

 

[Blue85]

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/1988-5-7l-tbi-low-idle.286318/post-2960253
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/88-tbi-idle-help-wanted.265069/post-2654789

Do you have a tach?