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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
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Thanks for the links @Blue85 !! I'll dig into those now.

I don't have a tach, but I do have a multimeter. I've used that to get a rough handle on RPMs in the past.

EDIT: Okay, both of those posts discuss messing with the torx screw on the throttle body. Since it is blocked off from the factory I didn't want to mess with it.

EDIT: I am reading that I should do this procedure with the engine warm. Will try tonight.
 
My thought process is that you might possibly need to adjust the throttle blade stop screw due to the years and wear.

My reasoning is partially based on the Edelbrock PF4 adjustment procedure. It requires setting the throttle blades to get the IAC setting in a range.
 
6872xtc said:
My thought process is that you might possibly need to adjust the throttle blade stop screw due to the years and wear.

My reasoning is partially based on the Edelbrock PF4 adjustment procedure. It requires setting the throttle blades to get the IAC setting in a range.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, that makes me feel better about doing it.

I'm attacking the plug and it is not going well... lol

PXL_20250208_022334160.jpg
 
shima said:
Thanks man, that makes me feel better about doing it.

I'm attacking the plug and it is not going well... lol

View attachment 496910
Click to expand...
I believe that those are pretty hard metal. I can not remember for sure, but I thought that it was easier to work on the aluminum to make small relief cuts in order to relieve the tension on the plug.

I don't remember for sure.
 
I am just gonna take off the throttle body and get it on the bench. Will be much easier.
 
Put a 30-40 thou feeler in between to hold it open. It will just make the IAC less open now and open more once you remove it
 
I think I got the minimum air thing completed correctly. I want to get a different tool to measure RPMs because my multimeter only does KHz and it could be more precise if it measured Hz.

Some bad news is that my coolant leak got a lot worse ever since I cleaned the ground connections on the intake. That involved removing a couple of bolts/studs from the intake and it looks like I've got a pretty nasty leak at the back of it now:


View attachment PXL_20250209_192421223.TS.mp4

Feels like one thing after another. I've never taken the intake off so hopefully that's not that bad. If you guys think I should replace it with an aftermarket one let me know.
 
Are asking to replace the intake with an aftermarket one? To me I wouldn’t. I don’t think it would give a ton of power over stock and if it did the stock tbi ecm couldn’t account for it to make it take advantage of of it without messing around with the tune which is no fun to do on it.

Changing the intake isn’t a hard job but it could be done over a weekend with all the parts in hand.
 
only issue you might find when the intake is pulled, is some corrosion of the aluminum intake at the rear. I have repaired several, by cleaning all the corrosion away and filling with JB weld expoxy. Let it cure and file flat.

Don't use the rubber end gaskets in the intake gasket kit. The right stuff rtv is the best choice here. some liquid Teflon on the intake bolts to keep oil and water from seeping.
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I'll order an intake gasket kit and get after this. I feel like I'm close to having this thing being reliable again.
 
This looks to be a decently time-consuming job, but I have to say that I'm excited to see what my EGR ports look like on the intake. My K5 has had a consistent code 32 since I bought it. I would love it if the ports were all gummed up because I am sure that cleaning them would make a huge difference.
 
shima said:
This looks to be a decently time-consuming job, but I have to say that I'm excited to see what my EGR ports look like on the intake. My K5 has had a consistent code 32 since I bought it. I would love it if the ports were all gummed up because I am sure that cleaning them would make a huge difference.
Click to expand...
Usually they are full of carbon deposits.
I have had some blocked solid, too many hours to break up and clean without damaging the intake.
 
Alright I'm getting started on this intake manifold gasket job today hopefully. I watched this video on the job... it's for a GMT-400 but I am guessing that it's almost exactly the same.
  • D/C Battery
  • Drain Coolant
  • Remove Throttle Body
  • Block Off Ports and Clean
  • Remove Distributor Cap
  • Find TDC
  • Remove Distributor
  • Remove Coil
  • Remove Final Brackets/Whatnots
  • Remove Upper Rad Hose
  • Remove Intake
I plan to just clean everything as best I can, replace the gasket, and put it all back together.

Here is the shopping list:
  • Intake Gasket Kit
  • RTV
  • Thread Sealant / Liquid Teflon
  • Coolant
The video also made me want to get one of those big radiator cap funnels so that I can burp the cooling system... and a work light that attaches to the underside of the hood.
 
Also I found this thread while doing some research:

Anyone else run into this problem with later (TBI-era?) intake gaskets?

Buddy has a 1990 Suburban. Intake has the heater outlet at the rear, meaning it is fed from the passenger side coolant port from the head. He purchased a Fel-Pro gasket set (complete engine or top end kit, not just the intake gaskets) that were supposedly for his truck. Turns out the rear...
ck5.com ck5.com

@dyeager535 sorry to bother you with this, but I'm about to do my intake gasket and the thread above has some really great information in it and I wanted to ask you a question. My K5 is a 1989, but the previous owner said that the engine was swapped in from a Suburban. I don't know what year the engine is from.

Below is a pic of the back of the intake - does the presence of that coolant port prove that I need the open intake gaskets (FelPro 1204/1205 style)? As you pointed out years ago, RockAuto is suggesting both open and closed styles for my year.

PXL_20250215_200215156.png
 
yes get the open intake gaskets.

Also new T stat, 195°. Non fail safe, those are crap and always stick open the first time engine gets up to temp. Instead of worrying about burping drill a 3/32" hole in the t stat flange. Get a new t stat gasket, inspect your heater and rad hoses. super hard, overly soft, or swelling replace them. New egr gasket you'll want to pull it if your planning on cleaning those passages
 
Yesterday's worklog...
  • I got everything pulled off of the intake except for the upper radiator hose and the rear coolant port (pictured a couple of posts back).
  • The shopping list is getting longer:
    • I got angry pulling off my fan shroud and broke it. The previous owner had cut out a large section of it on the bottom, presumably so that it could slip by the fan blades. It didn't work for me this time. It will be nice to get a fresh one.
    • I was pulling off my fan shroud because I thought I saw coolant leaking in an odd place prior to draining. Sure enough it looks like my radiator may be leaking on the driver's side (pic below).
    • I broke one of the connectors that attaches to the distributor ignition module. Unfortunately it was the larger one that has four wires. I am guessing that is going to suck to replace.
  • I took a look inside the distributor cap and looked at the wear marks inside. It almost looks like the rotor was scraping each one as it went by (video below)?
  • Finding TDC was interesting, I had never actually done that before. I verified it via the distributor rotor position, the crank position, and the feeling of air escaping from a spark plug hole.
Here are some pics and videos from the day.

PXL_20250217_203217893.jpg

View attachment PXL_20250218_011024680.TS.mp4

View attachment PXL_20250218_004852597.TS.mp4

PXL_20250218_030540489.jpg
 
Wes Harden said:

Amazon.com: WVE by NTK 1P1026 Deck Lid/Lift gate Ajar Switch Connector, 1 Pack : Automotive

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75% confident that is the connector you need, even though the description is different.
Click to expand...

Thanks man!!

When you guys replace electrical connectors, do you prefer:
  • Soldering the new connector wires onto the original wires?
  • Removing the original wires from the original connector and feeding them into the new connector?
  • Something else?
I have a bunch of connectors that I should probably replace on the K5. I've been using zip-ties to hold them in place.
 
shima said:
Yesterday's worklog...
  • I got everything pulled off of the intake except for the upper radiator hose and the rear coolant port (pictured a couple of posts back).
  • The shopping list is getting longer:
    • I got angry pulling off my fan shroud and broke it. The previous owner had cut out a large section of it on the bottom, presumably so that it could slip by the fan blades. It didn't work for me this time. It will be nice to get a fresh one.
    • I was pulling off my fan shroud because I thought I saw coolant leaking in an odd place prior to draining. Sure enough it looks like my radiator may be leaking on the driver's side (pic below).
    • I broke one of the connectors that attaches to the distributor ignition module. Unfortunately it was the larger one that has four wires. I am guessing that is going to suck to replace.
  • I took a look inside the distributor cap and looked at the wear marks inside. It almost looks like the rotor was scraping each one as it went by (video below)?
  • Finding TDC was interesting, I had never actually done that before. I verified it via the distributor rotor position, the crank position, and the feeling of air escaping from a spark plug hole.
Here are some pics and videos from the day.

View attachment 497644

View attachment 497646

View attachment 497645

View attachment 497647
Click to expand...
Do you have a picture of your fan shroud?
I might have one
 
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