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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
Overview Gallery Discussion
I was happy to see that you made it out. Also super happy that you ran Poison Spyder and made it home without any problems. It’s always a good feeling after putting in all the work. We are usually at the BBQ early and hang out in the evenings but this trip kicked our asses a little. We were able to keep all 4 trucks running for the 4 days.
 
Drew- glad you had a great time! Taking on poison spider while daunting, I knew the group would take care of you and help you through. The guys are right, finishing that trail on open 10 bolts on 35’s is an impressive feat. Great work dude. Totally happy you made it out and back without any issue.
 
I'm glad you got to go to Blazer Bash. I knew you would have a blast. Now you'll have to do it again!
 
I've just been driving the Blazer a lot since Blazer Bash...

Unfortunately, a hefty vibration has developed between 45mph and 65mph. It is worse at lower RPMs... if I step on it then I can usually get the vibration to go away. When it is at its worst, I am worried that the glove box is going to pop open because it's shaking so badly.

After doing the shackle flip, I switched from my original driveshaft to a backup that @ZooMad75 had on-hand. We took it for a spin on the highway and didn't feel much of a vibration so we just decided to send it. That driveshaft has been in ever since and it got me to and from Moab and performed like a champ.

Now that this vibration is coming on, I am considering doing a SYE. I got a promotion at work and I'm kinda wanting to treat myself. Buying a SYE is probably more responsible than buying a V20 Suburban...

With the exception of my front leaf springs, I have been pretty much pure-ORD on my Blazer thus far (shackle flip, extended brake lines, steering box brace, whatever...)

The Tom Woods SYE kit looks pretty nice but is $100 more expensive. Anyone have input on that?
 
Tom wood's includes a flange, and doesn't require the yoke to be shortened.
Ord you have to buy the yoke or flange separate and then pay to have it shaved down.
 
83ChevyK5Blazer said:
Tom wood's includes a flange, and doesn't require the yoke to be shortened.
Ord you have to buy the yoke or flange separate and then pay to have it shaved down.
Click to expand...

Sorry that I didn't mention that! I did read through the descriptions of both... I'm just curious if anyone has used the Tom Woods kit and whether they're pleased with it is all. I think I prefer ORD because having all of my stuff from the same manufacturer just pleases some weird OCD thing in my brain... but if the Tom Woods kit is superior then I want to hear about that for sure.
 
Did you check the u-joints on the rear shaft? The CV was tight as were the joints on the front. I know you got a new conversion joint for the rear since the shaft had a 1350 yoke and your 10b had a 1310 yoke. But anything can happen wheeling and that shaft has every bit of 25k miles on it under my rig.

If they feel tight and you think it’s the rear driveline, yank it out. Cut a Gatorade bottle to fit over the output of the tcase and tape it on. Throw it in 4hi with the hubs locked in and get it up to speed. I wouldn’t go far but probably the next exit from you. If the vibration persists it’s not the rear shaft. If it does, it’s something else.

Of course Eddie is right the speed is definitely in the range of being a tire too. Could have knocked a weight off or something. I’d check that before doing much else on the driveline.


If you do go the route of SYE route it’s not a bad option. I used a tom woods kit but totally understand your reasoning to go with ORD. I think I may have an extra flange I ended up ordering an extra when I did mine. I think I know where it is in my garage if you decide you want it. Front range driveline could probably cut the 1/4” off when they do a shaft. They did the shaft you have and the one I have in my truck now.

I have the unit repair manual and giant snap ring pliers you’ll need to do the sye install with. I would suggest since you are going to have to sit the case to do the sye install, you might want to spring for the bearing and seal kit from ORD and do it all right then. It’s not a hard job to do at all if you got the pliers and the book to see the exploded view of how it stacks up.
 
Take a second to check for other vibration possibilities as others suggested.

Drivetrain mods are a point where your full vision for the vehicle should be considered. Buying a custom driveshaft locks you into certain things. Do you want bigger u-joints, are you changing suspension height in the future, changing wheelbase, swapping to 8 lug axles? Just be sure where you are headed before having custom parts made.

I have tom woods driveshafts and they are great. Now that I know what my suspension will do, I wish I spent a few extra bucks to get long slip driveshafts. It wasn't a big concern at the time when I bought them. Its hard to plan for the evolution of an off roader, things do change from time to time.
 
Been a little bit since I've updated the thread. I was dealing with a pretty gnarly vibration between 45-65mph...

Drum roll...










Fastereddie said:
Dont rule out a tire.
Click to expand...

Eddie called it. I went to the local tire shop here in town and paid $60 for them to re-balance all four wheels. They said 2/4 were slightly out of balance but it wasn't the worst they had seen by any stretch of the imagination. They also said that some of my tires were "chopped up". I don't really know what that means, but I'm guessing that they're saying some of the knobs on the tread are ripped up or torn off.

Anyhow, it drives a lot better now. There's still a small vibration when you're cruising at like 50 or 55... but it's not that bad. I am just going to leave it. My tires will be a decade old next year, so I should probably start thinking about getting new tires anyhow.

I might get that TBI rebuild kit in pretty soon, but honestly I need to get going on the K30... that needs to be my main focus over the winter.
 
shima said:
Been a little bit since I've updated the thread. I was dealing with a pretty gnarly vibration between 45-65mph...

Drum roll...












Eddie called it. I went to the local tire shop here in town and paid $60 for them to re-balance all four wheels. They said 2/4 were slightly out of balance but it wasn't the worst they had seen by any stretch of the imagination. They also said that some of my tires were "chopped up". I don't really know what that means, but I'm guessing that they're saying some of the knobs on the tread are ripped up or torn off.

Anyhow, it drives a lot better now. There's still a small vibration when you're cruising at like 50 or 55... but it's not that bad. I am just going to leave it. My tires will be a decade old next year, so I should probably start thinking about getting new tires anyhow.

I might get that TBI rebuild kit in pretty soon, but honestly I need to get going on the K30... that needs to be my main focus over the winter.
Click to expand...
Chopped usually means the lugs are unevenly worn and is usually a sign of bad shocks.
Those tires will never be smooth, the balancing got you best you can expect from them.
New tires should be in your future.
 
balance beads for the new tires. no worrying about losing balance weights while wheeling. which is probably what happened, rubbed a weight or two off on a rock
 
I don't have a ton to report on the K5. I've been driving it and just enjoying it.

Fairly recently I started hearing an intermittent "clunk" or a "click" sound coming from beneath my feet. It generally happens after the transmission successfully shifts from 1st gear to 2nd gear. I hear the transmission shift and then I get a "clunk".

It is sort of hard to hear, but I actually captured it on video. You can hear it at 0:27.

View attachment IMG_0130.MOV

I don't know for sure that it is the 700R4, but that is what I am guessing right now. I checked the fluid level and it's good. If anything it's a little overfull. Next I took a look at the crossmember to make sure that the supports were in good shape. That seems okay as well. I am reading a variety of 700R4 "clunking" threads on the internet looking for more ideas.

Let me know if anyone has encountered something similar before! Thanks guys!
 
trans mount make sure rubber is in good condition and all fasteners are tight. Also check the t case adapter to trans bolts, 4 of them make sure those are tight.
 
U-joints and body mounts come to mind. I can hear it in your clip but its hard to tell.
 
Over the last couple of weeks I've done some stuff that I'm happy with...
  • Tightened up a bunch of bolts (hoping to get rid of that clunk noise I just posted about).
  • Greased my front drive shaft. It needed it so bad. There was a lot of play when I shook it.
  • Installed a TBI rebuild kit. I've had a persistent rumble or shake that I've talked about a lot on here and figured I'd try this out (mainly for the fuel pressure regulator).
  • Reset the IAC, adjusted the minimum air screw on the throttle body, and replaced and adjusted the throttle position sensor.
IMG_0139(1).jpeg

The minimum air screw was definitely off. When trying to start the Blazer, it would just die. I tightened the minimum air screw 1/4 of a turn at a time until the point that the engine would idle on its own. The EagleMark posts say to shoot for the minimum stable idle that you cand find, so I did that.

When I tried adjusting my TPS for the first time, I was using the stock unit that had been on the throttle body forever. It was reading 0.78V with the key on and the engine off. EagleMark says that the value should be 0.54-0.6V, and that you can bend the tab on the back of the TPS to get the reading where you want it. I tried bending that tab and all I managed to do was make my hands bleed. EagleMark also says you can drill out the holes on the TPS so I gave that a try next. I did one drill bit at a time, gradually stepping up in size... but still managed to break the housing. Luckily I had a replacement.

Being a little more careful with the drill this time... I got the TPS to read 0.59V with the key on and the engine off. It was a PITA to tighten those TPS screws since I had reinstalled the throttle body on the intake already. I didn't want to unscrew the intake bolts that hold on the "plate" where the MAP, EGR solenoid, etc mount to.

I test drove it and it went great. I am trying not to get my hopes up, but I am optimistic about how it is driving right now. I'm gonna give it a little more time before I cross off the clunk noise and the shake as "fixed", but again I'm happy.

I took it to have its first wash since Moab (I think!) It needed it and it deserved some love.

IMG_0142.jpeg
 
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