Gotta love some people's idea of wiring.
CK5
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1989 Toyota 4Runner
- Thread starter centexk5
- Start date
Building the truck my friend won’t be able to
It's not like it was the main link to the under hood fuse box that runs the engine. Nothing important. Guess I get to tear a fuse box apart and run some new 10ga.
Did get the new cables ordered. Pre-terminated, 2ga for starter to battery and battery to block with actual battery post terminations, 4ga for battery to fender and head to firewall, all USA made copper. $51.
Did get the new cables ordered. Pre-terminated, 2ga for starter to battery and battery to block with actual battery post terminations, 4ga for battery to fender and head to firewall, all USA made copper. $51.
never cared for those bolt on battery terminals
Eh. They work. Better than a hose clamp. True story.
Well anything to get home flies.
But once home well...
But once home well...
If it made it home it should make it longer, am I right?
Gotta love previous owners. Any recommendations on how to replace this wire? Wasn’t expecting a crimp on the link. 
Use a new un insulated butt connector and shrink tube. That old butt connector could be cut with dikes, length wise and not damage or shorten the white wire
So I keep learning new electrical things on this truck and apparently that’s by design. That’s the fusible link for the fuse box and it’s attached to an 80a fuse. Seems the popular thing is to remove the white wire entirely and then run a piece of 6ga from the fuse to the battery. The debates are like oil viscosity debates on whether or not it’s a good idea to do that.
I hate fusible links. I would just install a good resettable breaker but if it's just powering another fuse then I would eliminate it.
Seems more of a fail safe than anything. That and it's been discontinued so away it goes.
Is cya for that section of wire from bat to fuse
I got a 90s gm 1/2 ton plow truck that I got for free, starter did the same thing you are saying… I wire wheeled the starter housing nice and clean. Been starting as should ever since.
Bad ground to the block was its problem…. Took a a lot a frustration to figure that one.
Bad ground to the block was its problem…. Took a a lot a frustration to figure that one.
Im going to give replacing the wires and cleaning the grounds a shot before I buy a starter. Can’t hurt right?
I've seen guys just pull them apart and clean them up and they go back to working. My labor is free and parts are not. I prefer to try things now days.
I've done that once already. Bendix was locked up. Got it cleaned up and freed up and it's been working for a couple of months. Could be the contacts are worn out or perhaps not getting enough voltage to crank burned them up, could be a bad ground, not 100% sure. I do know the wiring is old and a bit frayed and the main ground on the block wasn't really clean. I've looked for replacement contacts but can't find any. So I'm going to upgrade the wire sizes and clean the grounds and see what happens but worst case I drop a $111 on a new (not remanufactured) starter.
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I recently had new mufflers put on wifeys truck since I don't have a welder, while the had it I had them throw a new starter on. After a week it started making a weird noise but always started, I figured I got a bunk starter so got it replaced on warranty, I put this one on and found they didn't clean off the mounting surface at all, had a 16th inch of gunk on it and they also hooked up the wire wrong. I was ticked cause I tipped them 20 bucks extra. But they did do good on the glass packs.
Speaking of exhaust, I’ve got a long tube header sitting in a shopping cart for $200 shipped that I’m contemplating buying. Replace the cat with a high flow and the muffler with a knock off borla. Why? Because why not.
Copper?
