What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...

Overview Gallery Discussion
blazinzuk said:
On the width thing I leave it all loose then get it squared to the body using pkumb bobs from the body for reference. Then I measure outside of perch to brake mount flange. Adjust, then I make marks, then I rotate the pinion for proper driveline angle.

This can be tough on your own but it's not bad
Click to expand...

Ok wicked. I measured the width of them, centre pin to centre pin after i dropped the axle and noticed they are leaning in a bit. So the marks i set on the tube must be inside a little too.


tRustyK5 said:
I'm gonna head there and give Nick a hand getting the 14 set up. I have done new perches etc a few times...
Click to expand...

Im just trying to get as much done as i can, so i don't take up a lot of your time! Stoked on the drive tomorrow, i love goodies:waytogo:
 
Just a few updates today. Spent the good chunk of the day going out to pick up the Xj shaft i found from a guy, who was parting out a jeep. Then went on the hunt for 57 chev parts with Rene. I managed to clean up the drums after checking to make sure they were still good ( don't appear to have ever been turned, and they are smooth ).Napa wanted 180$ a drum so I'm glad these are in really good shape. And i also got the XJ shaft in. It collapsed and went in very easy. I test fit a drum, and wheel to make sure it sits well. Im stoked on the stance, with the wider rear axle! I can't waiiiiiit to drive this thing again, And have it as a daily driver.

IMG_8576 by Nick Smith, on Flickr

IMG_8572 by Nick Smith, on Flickr

IMG_8577 by Nick Smith, on Flickr

IMG_8578 by Nick Smith, on Flickr
 
Sometimes i don't think my blazer is where it should,... be in terms of the build, or its not as nice as many others i see. Its easy to forget how bad something was before, when all your eyes are focused on, is the next step... I tell myself, this is my first time doing any sort of a build.. and also looking at pictures like this, really helps me not care anymore. Patience, good parts, and learning to do it properly from an awesome group of people, is worth the length of time it will take me to build this blazer to exactly how i want. This site has made a big part of this blazer what it is. Thanks.

old vs new

17110083797_d64fc3fe2a_c.jpg
IMG_8144.jpg
 
Last edited:
The 'turd' love is getting a little weird...but I totally get where you guys are going. I've been lucky enough to be on the front lines with Nick and his build. I've seen this truck pretty much as Nick bought it, with all the 'previous owner' warts showing. Not only has it come a long way, but Nick has come a long way. I know he feels like he is imposing on me with questions and stuff...but I enjoy it. Nick is tenacious, and I think this rig is in great hands! It is also miles better than it was, where it matters which is the mechanical side of things.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bix
tRustyK5 said:
The 'turd' love is getting a little weird...but I totally get where you guys are going. I've been lucky enough to be on the front lines with Nick and his build. I've seen this truck pretty much as Nick bought it, with all the 'previous owner' warts showing. Not only has it come a long way, but Nick has come a long way. I know he feels like he is imposing on me with questions and stuff...but I enjoy it. Nick is tenacious, and I think this rig is in great hands! It is also miles better than it was, where it matters which is the mechanical side of things.
Click to expand...

Thanks rene, ill keep bugging you for ever then:whistle:
 
Id much rather spend my weekends in the garage, than recovering from a terrible hangover like a lot of people my age around here..
 
Has anyone swapped harnesses out of the doors before? The connection for the burb door are not the same for the power window... I am having trouble disconnecting the two plugs that i beleive to be for the window switch. One is located near the lock cylinder and the other is located down near the bottom of the door. Im really wishing these were manual doors and i had no electrical to run besides the easy lock and unlock switch...
 
First picture is the burb door connections , and the second is the blazer door connections.


image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 
So I think i have the perches in the proper location, and the springs are plumb. I have a 42.5" width between the perch centre pins. The perches are 2.5 inches wide (1.25 to the centre pin hole.). I did 42.5 + 1.25 +1.25 = 45" ... Inside width of the axle tube is 56.5 from backing plate, to backing plate. I figured 56.5 - 45 = 11.5. Then divided that by two, which is 5.75. So i put the perches 5 3/4 inches in, from the backing plate. I double checked the measurements and they are within 1/8 " tolerance all over.. If thats too much..? I can get it bang on, once i have a second set of hands here.

I then moved on to trying to set my pinion angle. So from what I've read. you want to get the axle up to ride height.. Not exactly sure how to do that. Can i just jack it up enough to get a tire on? I then jacked it up a bit and put it up on the stands.. and used the jack to push up the yoke to start trying to figure out the pinion angle.. I have read a lot about this, and its all kinda just been confusing me. So i tried to figure it out with my hands, which is how i learn the best..

I read that you find the angle of the drive shaft, then find the angle from the differential yoke to drive shaft, and subtract the two, to give you the actual pinion angle...

If i did this right, i would have 16 degrees on the yoke, and the shaft is at 23 degrees, which would leave me with about a 7 degree pinion angle. Once the differential, and T-Case angles match. They cancel each other out, and it should spin with little vibration?
 
Last edited:
If i wanted to get a new driveshaft made, should i get it made before i set the angle? I want to lengthen my shaft, and also get a heavier walled tube. No matter what angle i set it at now. With a longer shaft, it would only improve the angles anyway, correct?
 
Set your perches up using your math, add u-bolts and plates and snug it up. Install tires and remove stands so the weight is on the rear as normal. Use a magnetic base angle finder with a big dial face on any vertical machined edge on your T-case, tranny, or even the harmonic balancer. If the truck is level, and the garage is level this angle should be approx 3-4 degrees downward slope. If 90 degrees is vertical the dial should read about 86-87 degrees. Now put the angle finder on the face of the diff yoke, use a bottle jack to rotate the pinion up from vertical til you get the same angle.

Or wait for me to come over and we'll set it up together...
 
Might have missed it, but what's the plan for the driveshaft?

Don't wanna run a conversion joint?
 
Pat's Driveline did my drive shaft for $500. Full re-tube with .095" wall tube. I wanted .120" wall, they said they couldn't do it without custom machining, and didn't have the tube in stock. Whatever, .095" is still a step up in strength from stock and it's the right length now.
 
max 02 said:
I`d wait for Rene to come over. :popcorn:

Have you priced a new drive shaft yet!?? That will be the most expensive part on the truck! :angry1:
Click to expand...

Its probably going to be about 500 bucks...

Bowtie85 said:
Might have missed it, but what's the plan for the driveshaft?

Don't wanna run a conversion joint?
Click to expand...

I dont need a conversion joint. The yoke is the same size on the SF. I wanted to get a longer shaft so its not pulled out so much at the tcase
 
I may even just not get a new one for now. Moneys tight, and im going to school soon. so ill be out of work. And then im moving.... So we'll see. I just need to get this thing on the road so i can sell my ford asap, as i wont be able to afford it shortly
 
bix said:
Its probably going to be about 500 bucks...



I dont need a conversion joint. The yoke is the same size on the SF. I wanted to get a longer shaft so its not pulled out so much at the tcase
Click to expand...

Ah right. Had a 4" on my 83 and it pulled the yoke out a fair bit.
 
Bowtie85 said:
Ah right. Had a 4" on my 83 and it pulled the yoke out a fair bit.
Click to expand...


Yea its quite far out... The 1 inch spacer i ordered for the front, should help quite a bit.
image.jpeg



Id hate to ignore the rear shaft , but for now it might have to happen...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom