Thanks to @rockin kw for sending me the correct piece! I was able to get the dash repaired and coated the top half and underside in the Lizard skin Topcoat for texture and durability. Really brought everything together for a much cleaner look.
CK5
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1990 K5 Duramax Blazer (BroDozer)
- Thread starter Fancy
- Start date
LB7 Duramax and Allison 1000 5 speed in a 1990 Chevy K5 Blazer
Being that the peddle ration for my brake calculation matched better using the hydroboost pedal and that i already had one available to me, i elected to swap pedals. Armed with information provide by another post (sorry forgot who's post i stole this from) I knew it was going to need some modifications. Below is a diagram of the difference between the two pedals and the hydroboost pedal i started with.
My blazer originally came with cruse control and thus had the cruise control kill switch mounted next to the brake light switch. Being uncertain if i would be retaining this or repurposing it i elected to keep the vacuum brake pedal mount and swap the hydroboost pedal over to it. This obviously meant i would need to modify the bracket that depressed these switches as seen below. Easy enough!
I coated the bracket with Lizard skin Topcoat to match everything else under the dash, repainted the pedal and added a new pad. Along with touch up and repaint everything else. I used Eastwoods Detail Gray Paint in an aerosol for the metal brackets and spring shield. I really like how it applied and the finish. And of course chevy orange on the spring just for some color and fun.
www.eastwood.com
www.eastwood.com
Eastwood Detail Gray Paint Aerosol 12 oz
Restore the original color of metalparts, and protect against rust
Dupli-Color Engine Paint with CERAMIC Chevrolet Orange Aerosol 12 OZ DE1620
Engine Enamel with Ceramic Chevrolet Orange Aerosol - 12 oz.
Anyone know what these two parts are circled in red? They were mounted to my original pedal and i tried referencing part number but was unsuccessful. I added the Velcro at one point but the label on the back was worn and torn off. so no help there. A relay of some sort it looks like and some sort of computer chip or module.
Hydroboost and mc looks good.
The black module is cruse control and the the relay is for electric door locks.
Looks great!!!
Just now seeing this build, and it’s awesome! Can’t wait for more updates!
Thanks @frankin5! Big help!
Thanks, sit tight. trying to get through the some things to clear up space in my garage. Then some frame work and hopefully i can start rebuilding the engine after that!
I'm sure many of you are in the same boat, but my original firewall insulation was far beyond deteriorated or missing in a lot of areas. It basically crumbled when i removed it. I looked around at many options to upgrade to a more waterproof solution that wouldn't degrade. There were a lot of great options but they all required to be cut from a template which i did not have. I ultimately decided to order a factory replacement form USA 1 Industries (link below). My thoughts were, i could at least use that as a template, however when it showed up, i was pretty impressed with it an decided to just go head with using that one. It had all the holes partially precut. Knowing that i made changes to my firewall i placed it and then marked from the engine bay what holes i was going to need to cut. I then only cut what i was positive i was going to use while leaving the rest to cut later if needed. My concern is, if it will be enough to help suppress the sound. If I'm not happy with it or i feel i need more i can always now use it as a template and install a MLV with a closed cell foam like you will see later in my build.
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I then cleaned up the stock AC & Heater boxes to have them ready to mount back up and refreshed them with all new parts. I sanded them down using a scuff pad and then applied Eastwoods Plastic Resurfacer (link below). I'm really happy with how it turned out. I also wrapped all the vacuum lines in split corrugated loom to protect them, using shrink wrap in the ends and wire loom t's (linked below) at the junctions. Really gave it a clean look and hopefully keeps it well protected.
www.eastwood.com
www.wireloomtubing.com
Eastwood Plastic Resurfacer Matte Black Aerosol
Don’t mess with temporary trim products, do it right with Eastwood Plastic Resurfacer
Wire Loom Tee Fittings, Nylon Wire Loom Tee Connectors Online
Online shopping for durable wire loom tee fittings with lowest price. Here are you can find lots of high quality nylon wire loom tee connectors.
www.wireloomtubing.com
I then started cleaning up and installing the interior duct work. One thing i have always hated was all the gaps in the plastics and inefficiencies, like circled in red below. Probably just the engineer in me but i had to do something
I created a bracket or guide out of cardboard as a template, then transformed that in to the final aluminum product. I used three screws to fasten it to the back and then some 3M VHB tape (linked below) to secure it on the top. I then used a Neoprene Foam Weather strip (linked below) to seal it up.
Nice work on the details!
I then did the same process for the front making the fit a little tight to pinch it all together. I also proceeded to seal up all other joints. Most of which just needed some sort of weather stripping to fir between the plastics.
Thanks!
FYI this is the black stuff used to seal up ac systems. It never hardens. I get it through Napa.
Much fancier fix than my shoving the hole in the ducting full of foam lol
