CK5
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1990 K5 Duramax Blazer (BroDozer)
- Thread starter Fancy
- Start date
LB7 Duramax and Allison 1000 5 speed in a 1990 Chevy K5 Blazer
As far as the CAD drawings, im going to have to revisit that later sorry. Turns out the program i used through school (Creo) crashed on my computer and they want me to renew my license at full price. Anyone got any recommendation for CAD programs that are cheap or free and produce good DXF files?
Once i find a new program i will work on getting some drawings together and maybe mass producing some kits as i have had a lot of interest in them.
Once i find a new program i will work on getting some drawings together and maybe mass producing some kits as i have had a lot of interest in them.
Only thing I know is I've seen guys using Fusion 360 on YouTube but I know nothing about it.
So something that has been consuming most of my time in the background is an on going legal battle with my HOA. With out getting into the LONG drawn out details of the whole thing it was basically a big (or several) oversight(s) by the management company that led into a massive dispute. Most of the attention was on the construction of the front yard but it ultimately held up the approval and construction of the shop. Well with much relief, i think that it is all behind me now and i finally received written approval.
I have heard good things. I think it will just be a matter of finding a program that isn't too different from what my brain is used to. It can be a massive learning curve having to train your brain to construct parts in a new program. I'm also really concerned about all the files i already have saved in the old program.
All that being said i should have some more time to allocate to the blazer. I have quite a few updates in que that i will post once they are completed. One of the things i was able to accomplish was vinyl wrapping the dash. I have always wanted to give vinyl wrapping a shot, so why not start with the most complex part you know. Overall i am very happy with how it came out. There are a few minor imperfections and only time will tell how long it will last. I was also able to reassemble part of the dash and get the HVAC ducting back in. I have been using 3M 2080 vinyl in gloss white by Rviyl. Linked below.
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depends how well i can tie it in and mount it.
That sucks. I'll never ever live with an HOA. I prefer places I can do whatever I want. I just seen one in SLC on the news where a guy ripped out his lawn and did a xeriscape water wise landscape and they are making him tear it all out cuz it doesn't meet their standards. Even though their standards are less water wise than what he did.
Ya, I will defiantly think twice before making that mistake again. It seems to have all worked out but still such a huge waste of time and energy.
Chevy350Ben
Part time mall crawler
Cool build. Don't know how I missed this one. I'm in.
Maybe i missed it, what did you use for the ash tray for the switch panel and keeping the lighter? Fabricated or an off the shelf piece?
Thanks, welcome to the party lol
No, I sort of assumed everyone kind of knew about those switch pods but it would be a good thing to cover. They are Carling switch pod housings, designed for the Carling switch but fit other switches of the same style. They come in single housing or an expandable sets like below. I don't remember where i purchased them exactly. I think it was a local West Marine in my old town i lived in but here is a link to what i am talking about. They also make a bunch of off brand variations.
Turned out by luck three pods, one center and two ends fit perfectly in the ash tray slot without any modification. Key is to make sure they have the corner tabs as shown below. I held the pod in place and then marked those corner tabs to cut where i needed. Then removed a little material at a time until they held the pod in flush. If you don't do this the pod does not sit in there flush on the bottom as there is not lip for the traditional tabs (on top and bottom) to catch on the bottom.
I also have been doing a bunch of part prep and painting so hopefully i can get some things reassembled and documented here soon. I have been using this Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black on a bunch of frame parts and love it. They make it in a variety of options such as rattle can and traditional spray gun as well as a 2K in a rattle can. It is supposed to be extra durable but i guess time will tell. I went rattle can to help make things easy on touch up and rework from abuse.
www.eastwood.com
and it is ok to be jealous of my make shift paint booth lol
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Satin Paint
3X more resins make it 3X more durable than original Chassis Black. Gallon - Quart - Aerosol
and it is ok to be jealous of my make shift paint booth lol
Are you using the 2K or the Extreme? I used the 2K on my whole frame and under body of my K10 10 years ago and it's holding up great. Nearly as nice as the day I sprayed it. The 2K in the spray cans are convenient for touch ups.
Impeccable work Sir! Well done.
I am using the Extreme, I was seriously looking at the 2K but i don't often use a full can and was afraid of wasting a bunch with the short shelf life once its mixed. I'm considering picking up a few cans for when i know i have a full cans worth of painting to do. I am very happy with the extreme so far though
Thanks!
Not much time to dive in and focus on the truck right now, but got a few odds and ends buttoned up. Needed something to retain the bulk head connectors from spinning in the firewall on both the passenger and driver side. Issue is there is not much restate there to do much. I used some 3/16th aluminum flat bar i had left over and made some pieces to mount on one side against one of the flat edges. Just enough to stop it from spinning. I then ran button head allen socket cap screws from the other side to keep it clean looking. Still need to spend a little time cleaning up the firewall insulation. Couldn't get to the passenger side one to finish it but i will try to post some updated final pictures at a later date.
Used the throttle peddle mount from Precision Fabrication Plus to mount up the throttle peddle. These guys make some killer products and the workman ship is fantastic.
Over all it came out very nice. However due to the amount of sound deadening material and increased thickness in the floor the peddle bottoms out just barely before WOT. I created a little space out of the 3/16th flat bar which helped ever so slightly but it still not perfect. It is so close to WOT that it may not make a difference but i will address the issue later if need be.
Over all it came out very nice. However due to the amount of sound deadening material and increased thickness in the floor the peddle bottoms out just barely before WOT. I created a little space out of the 3/16th flat bar which helped ever so slightly but it still not perfect. It is so close to WOT that it may not make a difference but i will address the issue later if need be.
Went to start working on the door jambs as you will see later, the strikers needed major repair. As I began I noticed what appeared to be quite a bit of Bondo on the seams and jam. After removing most of it i found what appears to be a skin overlay with some terrible tack welds (Yellow). This doesn't appear to be factory to me but what do you guys think? It appears to still have some pinch welds and is identical on both sides. I'm wondering if the rear panels where replaced at some point. I know the previous owner told me there was slight body work done to it from his wife hitting a pole. Of course there was far more work than he lead me to believe. Anyway what are your thoughts?
So after seeing the state of my door jambs where the strikers mount, I knew I had some work ahead of me. I was originally hoping to drill out the ends of the cracks and grind them out, then fill them in and smooth it all out. However, as soon as I began drilling I could tell the metal was very thin and even began to crumble in some spots.
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