CK5
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1990 K5 - The Dent Side K5

90 K5 Blazer on tons and 37’s
New box is here. Looks like they added some more eye candy to the box. Going to try and weld the ear back on the old box and put it on the shelf.

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Also swapped the cars around and put the K5 back in the shop to get all this stuff sorted. Next trip is Rubicon in July so have time to tinker a bit.

Doing a bigger fan
Putting c10 core support mounts on and taking the B52’s off
Swapping to a 12k winch.
New rear brake rotors
Adjust the preload on the front passenger coil.

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My goals for this rig is to make a reliable and safe mild rig for my wife and I to enjoy. We want to adventure around her family property in the Sierras and do the yearly rubicon and JV trip with our wheeling friends from college.

On the shopping list, in no particular order:
ARB’s front and rear
PSC hydro assist
Spring bushings
ORD steering brace
PRP seats
Crow padded 5pt harnesses
SYE
Yukon chromo front axle shafts
Front bumper to mount the 12k winch.
Fox 2.5’s front and rear
Deaver or ORD rear 63’s
back and forth about if i want to link the front with the ORD kit or go Deaver or ORD front springs and keep it simple
New wheels and tires. Want to go 37x12.50R17 but stay away from beadlocks. I don’t get a safe feeling from the current military surplus specials
I was reminiscing on the build going through my own thread. A lot of work has been done, and it stayed pretty close to the build plan from 6 years ago! Definitely overkill in some spots but the idea of the goal stayed the same :whistle:
 
Got the box off. This spot is pretty messed up. The bolt that went into this hole was pretty bent and ended up snapping off. The whole assembly unloaded.

This gap between the ORD brace and the frame has gotten pretty large.

Ordered the box relocation plate kit from ORD this morning. Plan is to drill out the holes, put the long sleeves in where i want them, then plate it on the backside and weld it all together. Hopefully that should fix it for good!

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Box is back on the frame after drilling everything out and welding some sleeves in. Need to pull it one more time to have the outside frame portion finish welded and paint everything before it’s done. Progress is progress.

Figured out that the casting from the box didn’t sit into the frame plate right causing the box to not sit flush. Ended up grinding down the part of the casting that indexes into the frame for the front two holes and now everything sits right. Idk how i never noticed that installing the last box, it was pretty obvious. Expensive lesson for me so check your fitment my friends!

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Box is back on the frame after drilling everything out and welding some sleeves in. Need to pull it one more time to have the outside frame portion finish welded and paint everything before it’s done. Progress is progress.

Figured out that the casting from the box didn’t sit into the frame plate right causing the box to not sit flush. Ended up grinding down the part of the casting that indexes into the frame for the front two holes and now everything sits right. Idk how i never noticed that installing the last box, it was pretty obvious. Expensive lesson for me so check your fitment my friends!

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I had that happen to me after I welded the plate on the frame to repair the cracks, I apparently didn't hammer the shape into the plate and after a few weeks it felt like the frame cracked again, and when I checked I saw the gap at the bolts but the body was hitting in the middle, so it was rocking back and forth.
I had to hammer the plate so the box sat flush and I tightened the bolts good
 
Post up some pics when you're done with the box/frame area. We could look at selling just bolts and sleeves as a kit to do just what you're doing. One thought is that the plate makes a good HD template to work from though. And maybe you could work the plate over the sleeves on the inside to make a box out of that frame section.

If you don't use the plate to box the inside, at least weld some strap between all the tubes to hold them in the same place and angle in relation to each other. That works well and is pretty simple fab work with pretty simple material.
 
So the ends of these Deaver springs roll the other way from what was on there before. I’m sure there’s a technical term but the spring ends that get the bushing roll down instead of up if that makes sense? The “old” style shackles from ORD rubbed the side of the leaf spring. The new style has plenty of room!

Swapped both sides and it ended up lowing the ride height about an 1.5” which was fantastic.

Old style shackles are going to be listed here soon…
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Since i had everything apart, I did new rotors. Hydraulic press is a new purchase. I cant believe i waited this long to buy one. No more hammering the studs back in with a metal rod and a sledge!
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I also borrowed my neighbors lift to adjust the preload on the passenger side. After the front 4 link everything settled lower which was great but the passenger side needed some adjustment. It was about 1.5” lower than driver. IMG_1431.jpegIMG_1430.jpeg

Now that the rear shackles aren’t making contact with the leafs the rear lowered more and I have a pretty solid Cali lean haha. The picture below makes it look more dramatic since i cut the factory fender lip up to clear turning the tires at full lock. The rear still has that body line. I’m going to wait and see if the front settles down more before i mess with it again. I have little helper springs i can throw on the coils to unload them a little bit more and lower the front down. But she’s a runner again!

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In general, coils don't settle, the only changes you will see are in reaction to weight changes. If you can't dial the height down without the spring pack coming loose at full droop, you need a softer spring in the pack. A tender coil can solve the problem if you're close and running low in your shock travel but it's not ideal.

With the shackle hanger welded very firmly to the frame you're kind of stuck with the shackle angle you have but if that mount point was to come forward and inch or two it would stand the shackle up, give you a little ride height and probably add some compression travel to the system too. It looks like everything is set up pretty tight to what you have so it's probably not worth it. As long as you can keep 5-ish" of bump travel in the front, lowering it a little more won't hurt. This thing makes me want to do a more extreme build on another K5 but not go as far as my "Wally" K5 which really makes me think I should spend that money on professional mental help.
 
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