Sweet updates.
CK5
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That crossmember looks a lot better. I'm a little torn on running one puck on each side. We always run 2 and you could very easily add one to what you have, either above the mount or below the crossmember. But with there maybe being a little give out of the crossmember ends it's maybe not necessary? Personally, I'd look at putting the extra pucks in there.
I'll be surprised if half of that corner of the bumper doesn't have to come off
What’s your bump vs droop numbers, assuming a 14 inch shock??
Not opposed to it. When I cycled it, it looks like I’m going to just barely clear.
The front is a 14” with 5 up and 9 down. The rear is a 16” with 6 up 10 down.
Much better. All the fenders are trimmed. Still need to do the inner fenders. Ignore the bump stop and axle conflict, still need to set caster.
Started the vintage air kit today too. So far so good on their parts. I’m having a hell of a time getting the bottom bolt out of the factory ac compressor. The other two came out pretty easy with the slotted head towards the pulley but that bottom one is fighting me. Is there some trick I’m missing? I’m about to cut the bolt.
Started the vintage air kit today too. So far so good on their parts. I’m having a hell of a time getting the bottom bolt out of the factory ac compressor. The other two came out pretty easy with the slotted head towards the pulley but that bottom one is fighting me. Is there some trick I’m missing? I’m about to cut the bolt.
Got the new condenser and dryer for the vintage air installed and put the extra transmission cooler in a new spot.
Current setup for the transmission cooling system goes from the transmission into the auxiliary cooler shown below then through the factory ports on the radiator and back to the transmission.
Also, most people are doing LS swaps when they do vintage air but for those of us with the serpentine belt 350's you will need a 99.5" long belt for the new compressor and the mount.
Current setup for the transmission cooling system goes from the transmission into the auxiliary cooler shown below then through the factory ports on the radiator and back to the transmission.
Also, most people are doing LS swaps when they do vintage air but for those of us with the serpentine belt 350's you will need a 99.5" long belt for the new compressor and the mount.
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Working on plumbing the adjustable proportioning valve in and the ORD ball valve parking brake/line lock. What’s better, having the ball valve between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve or putting it after the proportioning valve? I’m thinking it makes the most sense to do it between the master cylinder and the valve
Great updates
I think it makes more sense to not have the prop valve in the portion you lock under pressure, so I would put the ball valve after the prop valve, so there is nothing between the ball valve and the rear wheel brakes.
Well, needed some different sized adapters for the ball valve parking break than what ORD provides. Most of the time it’s cool having a late K5 with some of the modern tech but sometimes(like this time) you get one off complications. Summit Racing to the rescue! I’ll get that wrapped up once the parts come in. I mounted the ball valve in the factory hole for the parking brake release and opened up the two holes that were for the old parking brake pedal to run the flex lines through. Made sense to me to reuse the factory holes as much as possible.
The vintage air goes right where the factory ECU goes. So i am thinking about what I’m going to do there.
All the new hard lines for the brakes are plumbed! Just need to bolt the flex lines to the calipers.
Also have the heater hoses reconnected for the vintage air setup. I’ll get some pictures once i finish wiring. In the meantime, inner fenders (well, what’s left of them after cycling) are back in. Feels like a milestone to me.
Finishing the vintage air stuff and the brakes this week, charging the shocks and bumps over the 4th, then to the exhaust shop on the 8th. Looks like I’m making it to Rubicon for Jeepers Jamboree at the end of July.
The vintage air goes right where the factory ECU goes. So i am thinking about what I’m going to do there.
All the new hard lines for the brakes are plumbed! Just need to bolt the flex lines to the calipers.
Also have the heater hoses reconnected for the vintage air setup. I’ll get some pictures once i finish wiring. In the meantime, inner fenders (well, what’s left of them after cycling) are back in. Feels like a milestone to me.
Finishing the vintage air stuff and the brakes this week, charging the shocks and bumps over the 4th, then to the exhaust shop on the 8th. Looks like I’m making it to Rubicon for Jeepers Jamboree at the end of July.
Gotta support local business!
The guy at the local shop can get it higher and tighter than i can. He does really good work. He did my Chevelle and C10 and did fantastic with getting 3” to fit.
The guy at the local shop can get it higher and tighter than i can. He does really good work. He did my Chevelle and C10 and did fantastic with getting 3” to fit.
Pulling some late nights after work to get this thing wrapped up.
Air bumps are charged, vintage air is 99% done, and swapped the rear calipers to be the regular k20 ones and not the el dorado.
The little hole in the engine cage gusset is the perfect size for the AC drain. This kind of stuff makes me happy.
Air bumps are charged, vintage air is 99% done, and swapped the rear calipers to be the regular k20 ones and not the el dorado.
The little hole in the engine cage gusset is the perfect size for the AC drain. This kind of stuff makes me happy.
