Nah. After removing the shifter, it's really not that noticeable. I'm cool with it.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
1991 V1500 "The Yeti" - NEW crate 6.0 - FIRST START!
- Thread starter jtrux
- Start date
Cleaned up all the PO's wiring and got the pedals bolted down. Was a bit of a job but not the hardest thing I've done.
Are you going to use a clutch safety switch interlock thingy? I'm not planning to for my swap...
I don't plan on it. I actually disconnected the one on my Jeep. It's nice being able to start it without having to press the clutch pedal in.
First test drive was a success!
I'll take most crappy pics later when I'm done rejoicing.
I'll take most crappy pics later when I'm done rejoicing.
Put about 100 miles on the ol girl today to buy a Ford Dana 60 for my 93 K2500. Ran awesome.
Still need to tidy up the floor area and finish assembling the dash. To be honest, I'm just enjoying driving it so much that I don't want to mess with anything at the moment. Just take a short break.
On another note, I will be shopping for a car hauler soon to haul my LJ behind both the sub and my RV. Considering alum but mother trucker they are high.
Still need to tidy up the floor area and finish assembling the dash. To be honest, I'm just enjoying driving it so much that I don't want to mess with anything at the moment. Just take a short break.
On another note, I will be shopping for a car hauler soon to haul my LJ behind both the sub and my RV. Considering alum but mother trucker they are high.
I've been loving driving this thing. Just a whole different vehicle now.
I did have issues with the clutch. I'm running the Advance Adapters bellhousing and initially I had the push rod adjust way too loose. My old way of thinking was to not have any preload on the throwout bearing, however, that's just didn't work. I couldn't get it into gear easily so I started by putting a little tension on the bearing and it was a little easier but I ended up putting a little more tension on it to get it perfect. I called the guy who rebuilt the transmission and explained it to him and he reassured me that it was perfectly acceptable to have preload on the bearing and wouldn't cause any harm.
Obviously, I'm the only person in my little work circle who thinks it's cool because when people hop in to go to lunch, nobody says crap about my awesome NV4500 squarebody. I have to point it out lol. Anyway, I guess they are just not cool enough to understand the awesomeness that is my suburban.
I did have issues with the clutch. I'm running the Advance Adapters bellhousing and initially I had the push rod adjust way too loose. My old way of thinking was to not have any preload on the throwout bearing, however, that's just didn't work. I couldn't get it into gear easily so I started by putting a little tension on the bearing and it was a little easier but I ended up putting a little more tension on it to get it perfect. I called the guy who rebuilt the transmission and explained it to him and he reassured me that it was perfectly acceptable to have preload on the bearing and wouldn't cause any harm.
Obviously, I'm the only person in my little work circle who thinks it's cool because when people hop in to go to lunch, nobody says crap about my awesome NV4500 squarebody. I have to point it out lol. Anyway, I guess they are just not cool enough to understand the awesomeness that is my suburban.
If it makes you happy that's all that matters for sure. Not everybody can be as enlightened.
Keep an eye on the clutch adjustment rod. One of my buddy's (that isn't on here) has an issue with his AA bell and linkage from the slave to the fork. Even with a locknut the adjustment will back off after driving on rough dirt for a while.
Yea, I've been keeping a set of tappet wrenches (the skinny wrenches make things slightly easier) on board and a mat just in case I need to crawl under there and make some adjustments on the road. There's bound to be something more elegant than that goofy V block and a bunch of nuts stacked on top of each other. If I have issues, I might get some nylon nuts or something.
Had some issues with pinging, as well as other engine issues and figured out that my SEL bulb was out. Well, after getting that working, I did the little trick where you jumper the A and B port on the data logger plug and code 43 popped up. Changed the knock sensor and the code went away. I'm receiving a chip from Bill Hamilton that will have a tune that is for a manual (after swapping to the manual, I never did anything with the ECM) so that should address some of the issues I've been experiencing.
I have the dash torn apart so I'm gonna add a tach and might even change out the speakers while I'm at it.
I have the dash torn apart so I'm gonna add a tach and might even change out the speakers while I'm at it.
So Hamilton Fuel Injection is the place to go to. Really helped me out and the Suburban runs much better. I'm gonna run a data logger on it this weekend and send him the results and see if he sees any more opportunities for improvement.
I was seriously considering pulling the trigger on an LS swap a little early, too, but if this fixes all the drivability issues, then I'll definitely wait on that.
I was seriously considering pulling the trigger on an LS swap a little early, too, but if this fixes all the drivability issues, then I'll definitely wait on that.
Getting it prepped for a CO trip in a few weeks through Christmas week. Lots of little stuff to do.
Radiator has been leaking for a while so I'm pulling it and dropping it off at the local radiator shop tomorrow.
Gonna change out the rear wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware. Also, since they are 30 years old, I'm changing the rubber brake lines front and rear and pushing fresh fluid through the whole system.
F/R diff fluid. No idea how old it is and I have the fluid at the house so might as well change it.
Power steering pump leaks like a mofo and squeals. Been irritating me. I have one off of another truck of mine that I MIGHT swap out while the radiator is out.
Reinstall front DS. Never put it back on after the NV swap.
Finish the transmission tunnel. Once again, never finished since NV swap.
New cap and plugs. Bought "premium" tune up stuff at Oreilly's a while back and I have a random issue where a spark plug wire pops off the cap. They are a real B to snap back on and I'm done struggling with it so I'm gonna order something else.
I need to buy a full size spare. Maybe just buy another BFG. I have the original spare now that has never been on the road but I think this trip necessitates a new spare.
The list looks awfully long considering how long I have to get it ready but I'm committed.
Radiator has been leaking for a while so I'm pulling it and dropping it off at the local radiator shop tomorrow.
Gonna change out the rear wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware. Also, since they are 30 years old, I'm changing the rubber brake lines front and rear and pushing fresh fluid through the whole system.
F/R diff fluid. No idea how old it is and I have the fluid at the house so might as well change it.
Power steering pump leaks like a mofo and squeals. Been irritating me. I have one off of another truck of mine that I MIGHT swap out while the radiator is out.
Reinstall front DS. Never put it back on after the NV swap.
Finish the transmission tunnel. Once again, never finished since NV swap.
New cap and plugs. Bought "premium" tune up stuff at Oreilly's a while back and I have a random issue where a spark plug wire pops off the cap. They are a real B to snap back on and I'm done struggling with it so I'm gonna order something else.
I need to buy a full size spare. Maybe just buy another BFG. I have the original spare now that has never been on the road but I think this trip necessitates a new spare.
The list looks awfully long considering how long I have to get it ready but I'm committed.
So, I'm leaving on Saturday (12-19-2020) and still have quite a bit to do.
Mostly need to finish up the interior. If the wife is gonna be happy, I can't be having a hole in the floor anymore from my NV swap. Gotta tidy that up. Also, I started swapping in buckets so the bench is out and I'm working on that.
Driving it to work all this week (50 miles round trip) to make sure the freshly rebuilt radiator holds up and all the little things I did don't leak and what not.
I'm a little irritated that the RMS I fixed a while back started leaking again. I'll just have to deal with that.
Anyway, really getting pumped about driving this thing to Denver and back.
Oh, while it is on my mind, I need to also fix the damn cruise control.
Mostly need to finish up the interior. If the wife is gonna be happy, I can't be having a hole in the floor anymore from my NV swap. Gotta tidy that up. Also, I started swapping in buckets so the bench is out and I'm working on that.
Driving it to work all this week (50 miles round trip) to make sure the freshly rebuilt radiator holds up and all the little things I did don't leak and what not.
I'm a little irritated that the RMS I fixed a while back started leaking again. I'll just have to deal with that.
Anyway, really getting pumped about driving this thing to Denver and back.
Oh, while it is on my mind, I need to also fix the damn cruise control.
I changed out the turn signal housings and finally fixed the sagging headlights with some Dorman hardware.
I installed but didn't hook up those LEDs. Not sure they will stay. A little smaller than what I thought they would be.
The Vintage Air condenser fit well for the most part. Required a little bit of clearancing on the radiator support but very little. Probably could have gotten away without doing it but it made it a little easier to get the line threaded onto the drier. I'll make new lines this Spring to hook up to the factory evaporator. Speaking of, the factory evap has a sharp bend in it that I will have to delete. Not the biggest deal but I don't weld alum so I will have to have someone else modify it.
I installed but didn't hook up those LEDs. Not sure they will stay. A little smaller than what I thought they would be.
The Vintage Air condenser fit well for the most part. Required a little bit of clearancing on the radiator support but very little. Probably could have gotten away without doing it but it made it a little easier to get the line threaded onto the drier. I'll make new lines this Spring to hook up to the factory evaporator. Speaking of, the factory evap has a sharp bend in it that I will have to delete. Not the biggest deal but I don't weld alum so I will have to have someone else modify it.
Do you have brackets to mount the buckets? If not, I have them.
I have really been wanting to change mine. Yours just confirms how much better the new ones look!
They were cheap. 13 bucks each or something like that. Worth it.
Just curious because my rad might be in need of a rebuild soon. Was your rad the brass copper one and if you dont mind my asking ball park how much was the rebuild and does it look like a quality job. Thanks mike
It has brass tanks and it was 110 for them to reseal it and clean it up. They also fixed anything on the core that was leaking.
Cool thanks for the reply so they just repaired it the did not do a full recore?
