CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1991 v3500 - big dumb lifted forever truck

Now that I have put several thousand miles on it and I am very happy with the truck I figured I’d lend my details out. This is a culmination of learning from people much smarter than myself and I am infinitely grateful. Please ask your questions. I’d love to learn something new if you see something I could do to make this better.

Nitty gritty is it’s a 91 v3500 which was a tbi350 4l80 205 Dana 60 14 bolt with 4.10.

Now it’s a p pump 12 valve, g56, np205, Dana 70f/80 with 3.73 and 315s. Gets a consistent 17 and above mpg.

Pump has 4k springs, Mack rack plug, and afc live. Head has 60lb springs and arp studs.
Bottom end has 325k miles.

Haley speed 5x14 injectors, a phatshaft 62 12cm, steed speed manifold, and 18 degrees timing. Factory lift pump with 6.2L switchover valve and sending units.

Ron Bonney crossmember with energy suspension poly inserts to keep the motor from shifting forward. Second gen dodge oil pan.

Complete second gen dodge cooling stack fits exceptionally well in the stacked headlight core support. I am using two straight boost tubes instead of the bent dodge one. I also shortened them a little. Heater hoses are molded 90s into vintage air heater core.

Ac is a vintage air system with the f700 mid mount compressor.
Alternator is 240-4017 with rob Bonney upper bracket. Super convenient to use the dodge thermostat housing with the f700 brackets.

Gm power steering hoses into a gm ps reservoir on a 4bt power steering pump assembly.

Clutch is a Valair quiet dual disc and uses an obs ford master and dodge slave cylinder. I had valair make me this as a pre bled system. It is the Tennessee diesel kit with the firewall mount that is wedge shaped. 85-91 factory hydraulic pedals. You have to widen the bolt spacing from the original gm master cylinder bolt holes for the new master bolt spacing. Excellent driving clutch for a dual disc.

G56/np205 is an easy bolt up if using a dodge 205. I chose to use a clocking ring to bring it back flatter to gm clocking. Made fitting the exhaust a little easier. This combination is long enough to use a 5” diameter one piece slip yoke driveshaft. Worth it.
This is a third gen nv5600 isolator and 77-84 k30 trans crossmember.
Also here is a 1” body lift which really increases tool access to the trans and is nearly unnoticeable otherwise.

Using an hx40 down pipe for a w250 from diamond eye. Fits meh at best. I’m using the diamond eye first gen 4x4 kit until after the tcase. After that I switched to a 2wd kit which I like the routing and outlet location a little better. 4x4 outlet is angled instead of 90 behind the rear tire. This is not as bolt in as people make it sound. It’s a pain in the ass to make it look good.

Suspension is a pro comp 2.5 front spring which is 525 lb/in and nearly flat. 4 inch pro comp rear springs. Bilstien 5125s. Front axle is scooted forward 1” with push pull steering. It rides very not bad.

Axles are kingpin Dana 70 front, Detroit locker, and 35 spline spicer hubs.
2002 dodge disc Dana 80 with a trac lock. Parking brake cables fit together with no modification.

Gauges are a 4k tach fuel combo gauge from a medium duty square body with a board from Cajun tach shop to read the pickup system from isspro. R8912 with two extra magnets glued to the balancer. Reads just like a gas tach with a distributor. 4 pulses per revolution.
VSS speedometer is oem to the truck. Oil pressure and temp gauge came from medium duty as well. Classic instruments made me the boost and pyro how I requested them. It was a pain to fit them but I love em.

View attachment 431136View attachment 431137View attachment 431138View attachment 431139View attachment 431140View attachment 431141View attachment 431142View attachment 431143View attachment 431144View attachment 431145View attachment 431146View attachment 431147View attachment 431148View attachment 431149View attachment 431150View attachment 431151View attachment 431152View attachment 431153
View attachment 431154
I’ll be templating quite a bit of your build
 
The paint is poor overall and if I do anything it would be preventative work on the roof. It’s nearly missing all its paint.
Paint is just something I can’t afford.
You could paint the roof with the contrasting color you plan to use for the two tone now.
 
Obviously, white was used a lot from the factory. But i think a lighter shade of blue would look good on that one and be different. It would also help reduce heat levels in the cab with a lighter color on the roof.
 
I don't think I'd change color or add a second, just repaint it as close to the original color as you can. I struggle with changing colors because of the necessary door jamb and interior detail paint work needed to look correct.
 
I don't think I'd change color or add a second, just repaint it as close to the original color as you can. I struggle with changing colors because of the necessary door jamb and interior detail paint work needed to look correct.
That's where keeping the original base color and only adding the two tone comes in. The interior, under hood, and door jams do not change.
 
Ive said it a bunch, such an amazing job. You are my motivation to find time to get mine back on the road, and your fit and finish details are basically exactly what I want to do. Its just so perfect.
 
I’d leave it the color it is, two tone is a distraction to me, it’s too “busy”
 
Paint is just something I can’t afford.
Absolutely 100% not true.
Paint is easy. You have the ability to do it. No question.
Buy a HVLP gun and spend 300 bucks on paint and a couple hundred on supplies. Watch a few you tube videos. Read some forums.
The idea that paint isn't affordable is kinda a chickenshit excuse.
 
Repaints never look good imo, they end up looking too shiny or “fresh” patina is where it’s at
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom