Yes, I've used it before as well.
CK5
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1991 Volcano K5 - Family Wheeler - Fully Independent Twin Turbo BBC
- Thread starter folkenheath
- Start date
Yes, I've used it before as well.
Got the trans cooler plumbed in 8AN, and the grill back on. Here is how brittle the old wire loom was...(4 sec vid)
View attachment 1000003485.mp4
View attachment 1000003485.mp4
Sunny California man
I think it has to be a combination of heat and low humidity, but that's just a guess. Around here the loom may crack easy when it gets old, but it doesn't usually crumble to pieces when you try to move it, at least not at 35 years old.
As an Arizona car owner, I never use corrugated split loom. It only lasts a few years here before it gets brittle and cracks. I use the woven loom (which you can get in a split style loom) and you can get it in heat resistant materials.
I have transitioned to the same thing, in fact I am running it under the Blazer back to the taillights/fuel tank already since that whole thing is disintegrated too. I happen to have a leftover piece of small convoluted tube that I used on those two horn wires. Around here it's not so bad, but I do agree the woven loom is better than convoluted and once my remaining convoluted is gone I have only been buying the woven style the past year or so.
I also like to use the GXL wire better than the GPT wire, as the wire sheathing is more robust to the elements over time, its a little more expensive, but less expensive than shorts or rewiring it. Combine the GXL wire with the woven sheathing, and good routing and securing, and it's pretty robust.
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plumb fuel system
plumb transmission cooler
add coolant
add transmission fluid
add Tcase fluid
plumb fuel rail exit lines
add two hose clamps to fuel fill vent
build dual 3" exhaust
remove factory TBI wiring and ECU
reprime oil system
install distributor
install 8 coils
install dominator ECU
install relay box (6 relays for both fans, fuel pump, coils, low beams, high beams)
make new starter cables
wire EFI
wire fans
wire fuel pumps
install digital dash
write and install custom 388 DIS SBC/4L60E tune
bring engine back to life
Got the fuel tank installed and plumbed, still need two more hose clamps for the fill vent where I added a vent/rollover valve.
Started on the exhaust
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What T'd hose on vent going to?
Good question, goes to a rollover valve/vent, has to be above the fill neck. It's mounted hidden on the back side of the fill plate. I had to do it that way because the I used the vent port on the Holley sump setup as the fill vent, so I had to Tee off the fill vent for an actual tank vent, but I won't have a tank vent without a rollover valve, not safe.
Got the exhaust up to the mufflers completed. Making mandrel bent dual 3" all the way, I used a universal fab kit, I TIG weld any butt joints, and MIG weld any lap joints.
Got it all tacked in place, then took it out, and finish welded it, then used silver high heat paint on the welds.
Also, did my usual 1 gallon antifreeze, 1 gallon distilled water. Then I pour half another gallon of antifreeze in the first jug, and then fill them both up with distilled water, end up with 4 gallons of 50/50, which is usually enough. However, this large by huge radiator drank it all, I'll need another gallon at least.
Tailpipes next.
add transmission fluid
add Tcase fluid
plumb fuel rail exit lines
build dual 3" midpipes
build dual 3" tailpipes
remove factory TBI wiring and ECU
reprime oil system
install distributor
install 8 coils
install dominator ECU
install relay box (6 relays for both fans, fuel pump, coils, low beams, high beams)
make new starter cables
wire EFI
wire fans
wire fuel pumps
install digital dash
write and install custom 388 DIS SBC/4L60E tune
bring engine back to life
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I’m surprised you didn’t do v-band clamps instead of the 3 bolt collector flanges.
Good point, there are a few reasons for that.
1 - I had these laying around because I cut them off to add V bands to another project, they are 3/8" thick 304 stainless, and they were essentially free at this point.
2 - I actually didn't like the V bands
- they warp easy when welding, which takes extra time
- they had no rotational control
- they had no pilot to keep them centered
3 - this is just a temporary exhaust for the SBC in the stock frame
I used 308 to TIG the flange to the stainless header, and 309 to TIG the flange to the mild steel aluminized midpipe. I also have SCE embossed copper gaskets for them.
I will likely go v-band for the turbo setup, but it will need to be the kind with the pilot step to keep them centered on each other at least, and hopefully thicker so they don't warp so easy.
I would never use those thin 3 bolt flanges that are just floating on a stamped ring, those are horrible. It has to be fully welded for strength, and preferably thicker. They are quite reliable and also hold the rotation of the exhaust easier during installation.
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You need to pick up one of these heat sinks. It's almost impossible to weld a v-band without warping it.
Thanks, I'll keep that link.
I got it done, but essentially I had to go back and reflow the metal in the high spots with the TIG torch to draw it back away, a few times of that and the warping is gone, but its a PITA. Same trick I use if you have a warped weldment because it requires uneven welding, add some weld in the opposite side and then grind it off, or just reflow with the TIG torch and let it cool, it's very effective at essentially warping it back if you do it correctly, but obviously something you want to avoid if at all possible.
There are other companies that make them, I'm not advocating for theirs particularly. It was just the first link that showed up when I searched.
All good info above!
And yeah, I only use the stepped/male-female v-bands. The flat/smooth style may as well not exist.
And yeah, I only use the stepped/male-female v-bands. The flat/smooth style may as well not exist.
I just slide some of the pipe through one half into the other about an 1/8".
That only works if your pipe is a straight shot. Alot of times I have to kick pipe at an angleI just slide some of the pipe through one half into the other about an 1/8".
Well just point out my lack of technical experience!!
I guess that I need to look for more challenges!
