1991 Volcano K5 - Family Wheeler - Fully Independent Twin Turbo BBC

[folkenheath]

Got the cage bolted back in, the center bolt on every bottom plate is a 1/2" bolt that threads right into the nut welded inside the cage. I will use feature this to tie into the chassis later.

I thought about staggering the bolts on the 90 but decided there was enough of room, I was wrong. Stagger the bolts, they barely fit.





New carpet started, old carpet had holes and was very stained and looked gross with no center console.

The carpet is darker than I thought it would be, its ACC "dove gray". Perhaps I should of ordered silver but then maybe I would of thought it was too light. I'm just going to roll with it since the seats are darker gray on the bottom and lighter on top.

The rear seat bracket I made out of 1" chromoly tubing.

 

[Blue85]

The 4 bolts for that rear seat base - did you add 1 or 2 holes for that? The one hole could be from unbolting the bracket under the carpet that holds the factory seat strut.

 

[folkenheath]

The 4 bolts for that rear seat base - did you add 1 or 2 holes for that? The one hole could be from unbolting the bracket under the carpet that holds the factory seat strut.

All factory holes there, the front holes are where the factory seat bolted with the hinges to fold forward, and the rear holes are the factory seat belt holes. The weird thing is the front are 1/2" thread and the rear are M12. I did not use the latch bars in the floor where the factory seat clipped in. My whole chromoly seat mount base only weighs under 7 lbs. I used 5/16" thick 1" OD aluminum spacer below the base on the seat belt holes as those were in a recess in the bed floor. The M12 seat belt bolts I had to drill out almost completely to remove even though they weren't rusty, it was weird. I snapped off 3 different Torx bits in the head. The thread was still mostly there, but not 100%, so I added a nut under each one to be safe.

The strut bolted where the factory clearance cutout is on the carpet next to the passenger wheel well, those are two tiny holes, maybe 5/6 or 8 mm, don't remember, I plugged them with seam sealer they were so small.

The large holes for the spare tire mount I plugged with SS set screws.

 

[imiceman44]

All factory holes there, the front holes are where the factory seat bolted with the hinges to fold forward, and the rear holes are the factory seat belt holes. The weird thing is the front are 1/2" thread and the rear are M12. I did not use the latch bars in the floor where the factory seat clipped in. My whole chromoly seat mount base only weighs under 7 lbs. I used 5/16" thick 1" OD aluminum spacer below the base on the seat belt holes as those were in a recess in the bed floor. The M12 seat belt bolts I had to drill out almost completely to remove even though they weren't rusty, it was weird. I snapped off 3 different Torx bits in the head. The thread was still mostly there, but not 100%, so I added a nut under each one to be safe.

The strut bolted where the factory clearance cutout is on the carpet next to the passenger wheel well, those are two tiny holes, maybe 5/6 or 8 mm, don't remember, I plugged them with seam sealer they were so small.

The large holes for the spare tire mount I plugged with SS set screws.

I rarely was able to remove those seatbelt bolts rust or no rust.
Bust or twisted a few torx tips.
I even got an impact torx and stripped the bolt head.
I gave up and left the belts.

 

[Blue85]

I guess that's a change for the late (90/91) shoulder belts. The earlier seats were entirely part of the back seat, with no seatbelt holes in the floors.

 

[Truckman4life]

I found the only way to remove torx head bolts like that is to weld a nut with a center hole almost as big as the head of the bolt to it and then use a regular socket and impact on them. Ford uses torx bolts for truck beds and they will never come out whether they are rusty or not.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

On my ‘89 I couldn’t get the rear seat belt bolts out either. It got Rhino Lined with the belts in place but covered in tape.

 

[Fastereddie]

That dark gray carpet looks great

 

[max 02]

Me and my son were working on an oil change on my Polaris Ranger, I knew the oil plugs for the differentials are a pain and strip out easy.
The front diff plug was being a pain.

My son had his service truck with him so he said hang on! But you’re not going to like it.
We got out his long barrel Snap on air hammer and an adapter for sockets.
It was a torx head bolt, but anyhow with that and a wrench on the adapter it came out like butter!
He called it shake and break, never fails. He uses it on exhaust manifold bolts on tractors.

 

[CyberSniper]

I have a preposterous amount of experience with sound deadening. I don't know if there has been a product I haven't tried. Some are truly terrible for the price (Noico). On my motorhome I probably put $4,000 worth of sound deadening into it.

In cost per performance per weight, these are the products I prefer:
Design Engineering Boom Mat Liquid Sound Deadener
Design Engineering Boom Mat Spray-On Sound Deadener
Design Engineering Floor & Tunnel Shield II Heat Barrier (peel and stick fiberglass panels with a perforated aluminum shield)
Design Engineering Muffler Shield (wrap the muffler)
Dynamat Xtreme
Dynamat Hoodliner
Design Engineering Titanium Exhaust Wrap
Siless Max 120 mil (adhesive is iffy at high temperatures)
Siless Liner 157 mil

The DEI Boom Mat liquid stuff stinks really bad. It's basically glorified paint. However, it dries nicely eventually, and is paintable. I use it a lot anywhere the surface is irregular or I need to seal/flatten spots to run Dynamat Xtreme over. It makes more of a difference than it should. I usually apply Dynamat Xtreme over it.

The reason I bring all of this up is you are building something really nice, but often people get tired of riding in something like that because it's loud.