CK5
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1999 chevy 2500 getting bad gas milage

A p1345 is a camshaft/crankshaft correlation. This means your timing is way off. The SES will only come on if the timing is out +/- 13 degrees so you are WAY out you need to be at 0. If you have a way to watch engine data(scan tool), You can set the timing that way. With the engine at an idle you need to look at "CMP retard", That value is where you timing is set. Turn the dist a little each way and get it back to zero. Every time you move the dist you have to snap the throttle to get the new reading. If you dont have scan tool acess you are screwed. Anyways a missfire code is P0300 P0301 P0302, etc.
 
No man, just plug the scanner in and look under engine data for cmp retard. What ever that number is, is what your timing is set at. Unless your dist is loose, you probally have a semi-stripped dist drive gear, pretty common. Basically your cam and crank are not in time/correlation. Let me know what you find.
 
ya, thats the problem I was trying to describe.........my '97 7.4 suffers the same symptoms you described.
 
did a tune up...it needed it badly...i dont think in 160k it had ever been done...definite diffrence in power...we tried to clear the light the old fassion way (unpluging the battery and touching the cables together,no airbag dont worry) but it didnt work...hopefully i will see a diffrence in gas milage now

Touching the cables together :eek1:, your joking, right? I guess that could clear the codes but only because it fried everything.

Just unplug the battery and leave it unplugged for several minutes.
 
Touching the cables together :eek1:, your joking, right? I guess that could clear the codes but only because it fried everything.

Just unplug the battery and leave it unplugged for several minutes.

:eek1:wow I didn't catch that the first time I read this. One way you could get the code cleared is go up to your local autozone and ask them to clear the code with their code reader. They do it for free and it a hell of a lot safer.

Or you could use that fancy snap on tool you mentioned earlier.

But touching the cables together?? Come on Jay I know you are smarter than that!
 
OBD2 stuff will automatically clear any codes that the conditions don't repeat after something like 50 starts, correct? I know it will clear SOME codes that way, but not sure if all codes are like that.

Not that I'd want to wait that long, but I guess if you don't have an Autozone or someone that can clear them, it would work.
 
Just a couple thing to add. P1345 cam-crank correlation. Spec is 2 to -2 you must raise engine speed to 1000 rpm as well.

Touching or even holding the cables together with the battery disconnected causes no harm and in some cases will clear stored codes.
 
Just a couple thing to add. P1345 cam-crank correlation. Spec is 2 to -2 you must raise engine speed to 1000 rpm as well.

Touching or even holding the cables together with the battery disconnected causes no harm and in some cases will clear stored codes.

Ok you can touch all the battery cables together that you want, but you will never catch my fat ass ever doing such a dumb thing.:rolleyes:
 
I do it most days. It allows capacitors and such a path to exhaust stored current.

Dumb to you maybe but it is required on most of todays automotive modules.
 
Many late model vehicles can "logic lock" either due to a software anomally or programming error. Some simply removing the fuse will allow the module to come back on line. Other times the memory must be cleared from the module one quick and easy way is to hold together the cables.

This is in my experience. Your results may vary.

Hi Jack off sorry twoslo.
 
Many late model vehicles can "logic lock" either due to a software anomally or programming error. Some simply removing the fuse will allow the module to come back on line. Other times the memory must be cleared from the module one quick and easy way is to hold together the cables.

This is in my experience. Your results may vary.

Hi Jack off sorry twoslo.
exactly i dont think it works but my buddy is a gm tech and they do it in the shop all the time...remember the battery isnt hooked up...if you have an airbag though it WILL deploy
 
Is this detailed in the service manual?

I'm not arguing it, makes sense to me, just curious if GM specifically states to do this in their service literature?
 
remember the battery isnt hooked up...

That's the key there. Both cables must be removed. Don't just remove one and touch it to the other still connected cable. It seems easier to just remove the fuse though.
 
which sevise manual??im not sure but i know its not in haynes or chilton,i can ask him when he gets home..i always thought it was a bunch of bs till i went to his work and saw it done numerous times...

saturns get an evap code if the gas cap is not screwed on all the way..people bring them in all the time for an evap code and all they do is touch them together for 15 seconds (i belive) and it resets it...they make like 65 bucks on that servise
 
Service manual for any of the rigs. Pretty hard to argue with the procedure if GM specifically states thats how to do it! :)
 
Yes I am retarded guys I am sorry. I was thinking about it on my way home from work, if both cables arent connected then duh nothing going to happen.

<------ goes and hides in a dark wet corner
 
I was also thinking that the cable(s) were still hooked up to battery power, so no issues if they are both completely removed from the battery.

Still, never heard of touching the cables together and I work directly with the automotive industry. Based on the explanation of letting the capacitors discharge I guess it makes sense and why I mentioned you need to leave the battery unhooked for several minutes.
 

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