1st Post 71 Blazer Project

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by joedragrace, Sep 27, 2014.

  1. max 02

    max 02 N.E.D. Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Looks great! Nice engine! :saweet:

    Way to go on the rust repair.... I'm working on my kids rockers and cab corners, so time consuming! I'm sick of rust.... But what do you do!?
     
  2. joedragrace

    joedragrace Registered Member Premium Member

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    12/22/2019 Update Moving up from page 8
    Thought I would update my slow progress and put some pressure to get the Blazer running. I have been working on other parts of the build, just not rust repair. But I now have full floors in the front. IMG_1039.JPG IMG_1040.JPG IMG_1041.JPG IMG_1043.JPG I set the motor in a while back to make sure the motor mounts were in the correct location. Also put the trans case in to check shifter location. IMG_0918.JPG IMG_0921.JPG IMG_0925.JPG
    Sent the steering box to Red Head Steering to get rebuilt. Removed the 3 on the tree guts from the steering column, replaced the bearings and turn signal switch, and filled the hole for the lever. IMG_1053.JPG IMG_1056.JPG
    Finished mounting the seats. This had to be done first before the rocker boxes can be installed since the back outside nut plates are inside the box area. IMG_1054.JPG IMG_1055.JPG IMG_1057.JPG
    Sprayed the inside and outside of the rocker boxes yesterday with Raptor liner. I bought the better Raptor gun, and it's well worth the money. $70 The texture turned out smother than when I sprayed the frame.
    https://www.raptorcoatings.com/us/e...ies/professional-application-gun#.Xf-Kj25FzXI
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    Planning on installing the boxes in the next few days. Just need to clean up the underside of the cab and rust encapsulate the area before installing the boxes.
     
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  3. 6872xtc

    6872xtc make mine modified Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Quite a bit of work to get that all replaced. It looks good!
     
  4. joedragrace

    joedragrace Registered Member Premium Member

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    Thanks! I feel good when I finally have the rocker boxes welded in place.
     
  5. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    just going to grind off the liner in the welded areas?
     
  6. joedragrace

    joedragrace Registered Member Premium Member

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    I taped those areas off before coating. Still need to sand off the black primer(e-coat).
     
  7. joedragrace

    joedragrace Registered Member Premium Member

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    Finished installing the rocker boxes this morning. Both sides went on without much hassle, which I guess is good.
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    This is what the inside of the box area looked like before the boxes were installed.
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    Both outer rockers fit good as well. Waiting to weld them in place until I hang the doors to make sure alignment is correct.
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  8. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    For sure don’t weld the outer rockers until the doors are on. Those are one of the most frustrating parts to get back on. The replacement outer rockers frequently have trouble. Very nice work so far though.
     
  9. joedragrace

    joedragrace Registered Member Premium Member

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    Thanks! If you look at Project "RESPAWN" the alignment of the doors, outer rocker, and front bedside repair all line up nice. That's what I'm aiming for.
     
  10. joedragrace

    joedragrace Registered Member Premium Member

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    Peeled another piece of the onion. Looks like I'm going to replace the rear cross sill, along with the rear section of bed. Yea!
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  11. joedragrace

    joedragrace Registered Member Premium Member

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    Finished cutting out the rear cross sill and ordered a new one. There is not a direct replacement for the Blazer, (that I could fine) so I ordered one for fleet side steel bed. The mounting pads are taller
    since the bed bolts directly to the frame on trucks. So I had to cut them off so I can shorten them. The right side didn't line up very well anyway.
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    There is also reinforcement boxes on the Blazer cross sill. Mine were to rusty to reuse, so I made some new ones.
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    The sill and floor section had to be split in order to install without removing the one bed side. I left a 3/8" lip on the old floor just behind the cross member to weld the new section to. I was able to slide
    the new section under that lip, so I can scribe a final cut line. Working on shorting up the mounting pads and boxes. Remember BRACE THE TAILGATE OPENING! Probably not necessary, but it's a
    great reference point and you know nothing has moved.
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  12. Greg72

    Greg72 "Iron Sharpens Iron..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Nice work. Gotta respect guys who are willing to go this far into the truck to exorcise rust and hidden damage. :waytogo:

    -G
     
  13. joedragrace

    joedragrace Registered Member Premium Member

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    Thanks Man, This looks like the last structural area that needs major repair. I'm ready to get past rust repair.
     
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  14. joedragrace

    joedragrace Registered Member Premium Member

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    Working on the mounting pads and boxes when I got sidetracked,(or maybe look ahead). You can see the amount of material I removed from the mounting pad. Still have to add the top flanges to the boxes.
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    2 issues I needed to address before moving on with the floor. The gas tank neck and the vent lines. The new tank neck is useless and welded on, not brazed on. So I took it to a local radiator/gas tank repair shop.
    They said if I removed the existing neck(to save on labor cost) they would braze the my original neck on for $40.00. Problem 1 solved.
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    Issue 2. The vent lines I purchased from Inline tube were not even close to the original lines. They said if I sent my old lines in they would copy them, but my old lines were in bad shape. So I had them
    send me the brass unions(no charge) I would finish the lines myself. I thought this was the best time to finish the lines as well as the fuel filler hose, since the working area was exposed. Problem 2 solved.
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    Back to finishing up the rear floor section.(Unless something else shiny catches my eye)
     
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