1st Post 71 Blazer Project

[76zimmer]

I like this progress....body off IMO is the only way to do things!
I know how hard it can be to win a track championship, so huge congrats on that!
you can't put up too many pics either for this crowd!
sounds like life is busy but rewarding for you, carry on!

 

[joedragrace]

Tom, I had to jog my memory, some(many) beers since cross member install.
The holes on top of frame lined up fine. But not the bottom. I welded up holes in the frame on bottom as well as new frame brackets, then drilled new holes. Photos show mock-up.

 

[tp85]

nice. did you leave the engine & tranny in the original location or move the assembly forward? i vaguely recall the tranny sits further back with the 6 cyl trucks, i guess because the engine is so long. this would cause the distributor of a v8 to be nearly touching the firewall.

can anybody confirm or rebuke the engine/tranny positions were different between 6 and 8 cyl trucks? which i would change driveshaft lengths, tranny crossmember position, etc.
tom

 

[diesel4me]

As far as I know the straight sixes used different engine mount brackets,and the motor mount frame brackets bolted in a set of holes on the frame closer to the front of the truck than the V8 brackets did...the 292's used a one off passenger side engine bracket,due to the mounting pad on the block being in a different location than a 230 or 250 six was...

Far as I know the front crossmember under the engine is in the same spot ,so is the tranny crossmember,for a straight six VS a V8,on 4x4 models at least..

These pictures are from a Clymer 1967-83 Pickup manual,but should be the same as a first generation truck also...

 

[joedragrace]

Man I hope the holes are right! If not I'll cut a hole in the firewall. That will
make adjusting the timing a lot easier. I have not had a block mounted
in the frame since I set the body on. Robert I think your right though. I
did take some rough measurements off a 72 full size 4X4 truck, smallblock,
th350, and 205 case, and a 71 blazer same drive train. After I received the
kit from DIY4X, placement matched my measurements. There are only one set of holes to locate cross member that mounts adapter. Factory cross
member under motor looked the same, just the mounts on top of the frame were different between 6cyl and v-8.

 

[diesel4me]

Thinking back,my '72 K5 and a '69 K10 Suburban chassis I had a '72 Chevelle wagon mounted on both had motor mounts that were different from the 73-87 style ,the rubber mounts bolted to the engine with 3 bolts,but only one 7/16" bolt held the motor mount to the crossmember...no "thru bolt" like the newer ones,the mount had a tapped 7/16" hole in the center of it..

But I'm pretty sure the location of the engine crossmember and tranny crossmember are the same regardless of what engine was used..

 

[joedragrace]

Rust Repair

So I had some time this week to pull the front seats and carpet up. Some
of the original floor was still there. Nice surprise. Whoever repaired the front floor area actually kept mud from flying into cab area.

While I had the body off frame been checking how the doors open and close. They shut good(no dragging) even when the body was setting on
jack stands. So removed the repair piece on the right side and now the door drags slightly. You can see how it was tied into the pillar.

I remember somewhere on the CK5 site about bracing the doors. So at this
point my plan is to roll the frame out again and sandblast from lower fire wall back, and from rocker boxes inward. Nice to start with a clean slate
before starting repair process. A mining company south of here sells this
sand that is a 20/40 mesh size, prewashed for $13.25 for 80lb. bag. All
most like glass beads but way cheaper. That's what I used on the frame
and it cuts rust great.

The shopping list I have prepared is as follows.
1. Front floor panels
2. Outer cab floor extensions and rocker panels
3. Front door pillar
4. Kick panel
5. Front cab support
6. Rocker boxes
7. Rocker box caps
8. Rear cab support.
9. 4 x 8 sheet of 18ga. sheet metal
10 4 X 4 sheet of 16ga. sheet metal

Consumables-
cut off wheels, sanding discs, surface conditioning discs, and a
case of old No. 7.

I do have a bead roller so I'm thinking on some of the panels I will roll
a step bead allowing the use of clecos to hold metal in place while fitting
into place. Also a step seam is easier to weld. At this point I am open
for all suggestions. I been checking out other builds which has been helpful. Once again BRACE THE DOORS!

 

[Greg72]

I'm sure you already know this, but I'll say it for the benefit of the group.

Don't weld on that galvanized metal!!! That stuff is nasty and toxic when welded and the fumes can kill you. Seriously. Dead.

It looks like the OP used sheetmetal screws to fasten it down, and it looks like you are pulling it all out of there anyway, but I just wanted to remind everyone about the dangers of dealing with "creative" repairs that might be discovered along the way...

-G

 

[joedragrace]

Good advise! Looks like most of the galvanized metal is held in place with pop rivets. I'll drill them out or use metal shears. Even clean metal rinsed
off with carburetor cleaner can give of phosgene gas when welded.

 

[Greg72]

Yep.

I switched over to non-chlorinated Brakeleen for similar reasons....

Some guy on Pirate4x4 almost died from welding when he pre-cleaned the parts with chlorinated brake cleaner.... A tiny amount of the solvent was trapped and didn't evaporate away before he started welding and that one little "puff" of smoke was enough to shut down his organs and put him in the hospital for weeks. He's got permanent damage and all sort of lingering health issues......

Scary stuff!

-G

 

[ashman]

wow. Just learned a few things I didn't know. Scary stuff indeed.

 

[jtrux]

Looks like a great start.

 

[joedragrace]

Rust Repair

It's been a few months since my last update. Started to work on rust repair, but I thought I should get my work top mounted permanently. I did some leak detection and repair work for the local snap-on man on his pool.
We swapped out labor and a "few" Benjamin's for this nice stainless work top. I had it laying on top of two 55gal Rubbermaid trash cans. Built the frame out of 2" square tubing, then lag screwed it to the wall on the back
and side. With the 45 degree braces it should support a small elephant.

So then I started on removing the galvanized repair pieces to expose the real damage. Looks like normal damage.

My plan is to get the A pillar repair welded in with the outer cab support
before dropping the rocker box support. The rocker box reinforcement panel from classic heartbeat bolted in place with the tri plus box end cap
and the original rocker box. I had to start from the back and work forward.
I rolled and step in the inner rocker panel to help locate position and hold in place with clecos.

As mentioned before on rust repair, the new outer cab support is not even close to fitting. So after a few hours and hammering, welding and trial fitting, I got that piece where it should work.

Now I can finish the reinforcement plate that where the bolt goes through.
The old one was really rusted.

 

[ryoken]

.

that's one sexay work surface......

 

[bigjbear]

Smart move using the Clecos. You may know this, but if not, they also make "draw Clecos" that are threaded and have a nut or a wing nut on top instead of the spring loaded plunger. They are pretty handy when working with thicker material or things that are just a little off.

Love seeing the progress pics. Keep up the good work.

 

[joedragrace]

Jim, I'm sure you know about The Yard Store, but here is there website
if some of the other members want to check it out. www.yardstore.com. The draw clecos might work good when trying to pull the floor panel down to the braces before welding.

 

[bigjbear]

The draw clecos might work good when trying to pull the floor panel down to the braces before welding.

When I saw your pic that was what brought it to mind. And good call on The Yard, good prices on oddball stuff.

 

[Onalaska Blazer]

I see that you went with an aftermarket engine mount crossmember, Do you still have the old crossmember and mounts.. I need them for My build. If so let me know if you would sell.

Thanks.

 

[joedragrace]

I sold the mounts with the motor, which was a 6 cylinder. I would purchase the cross member kit from DIY4X. It adds strength the frame which it one
thing these trucks need in that area!

 

[joedragrace]

END OF 2015 PROGRESS. SLOW!

Thought it was time to update rust repair. I finally had time over Christmas to get the passenger floor area roughed in.

I made a piece at the front edge of floor area to tie into existing seam and lap new panel to. Also used fender brace for recess of the cab floor bolt.

Here are a few pictures from the underside.

Everyone that has done this phase of a build knows how time consuming it is, but it is rewarding even if the little steps.
I also had time to do some pre assembly on the motor. Fun Stuff!

Basic 1st gen small block. 9.5 to 1 flat tops, balanced assembly, Lunati Voodoo cam and springs, Comp roller tip rockers,
pocket ported heads, Edelbrock 4150 intake, Street Avenger carb( metering blocks front and rear vac secondary) very
tunable, MSD HEI and 6AL Box (won those at the awards banquet a few years ago). I know the headers are ugly, but will
work great to break in cam. Then maybe a new set of Headman's. I'll try to keep my posts closer together.