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$200 K5 (454 K5 now) *too much junk in the trunk

Overview Gallery Discussion
the 465 stayed behind the new 454?? i had an acquaintance with that combo in an fj40 with 35 inch tires and the factory 4:10 toyota axle gears... aaaand he got 14mpg on the highway around 65mph. my 350 blazer could BBBBBbbbbaaaaaaaarely do that if i drove it nicely.

I bet this is going to be an all around great drivetrain
 
scouthead said:
the 465 stayed behind the new 454?? i had an acquaintance with that combo in an fj40 with 35 inch tires and the factory 4:10 toyota axle gears... aaaand he got 14mpg on the highway around 65mph. my 350 blazer could BBBBBbbbbaaaaaaaarely do that if i drove it nicely.

I bet this is going to be an all around great drivetrain
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Yes, kept the 465 and 205. May go to a Magnum box in between them but staying manual. I have a NV4500 from a '92, I don't think it will go in the K5. I think the NV4500 would be better with the 8.1L that I have, probably ending up in my V3500 Crew cab. 1 truck at a time, want to wheel the K5 this spring.
 
Working through the harness. Most of the ProFlo4 stuff is hooked up, waiting on some fuse holders for the fuel pump and fan relays to come in. I want to strip the TBI wiring out while keeping HVAC, lighting and charging intact. I know what a lot of the wires do, still tracing the rest. Keeping main 12v supply wires, crank to the starter, coil wire as switched signal to the ProFlo4 pink wire.

Anyone know about alternators? Is this a 1 wire even though it has 3 wires? Do I need to add a diode for stand alone charging? The post is connected to the battery and the main fuse block, the 2 wire connector heads into the computer plug (computer is removed) and dash. I would love to get charging without the rest of the dash, heading for new gauges eventually. ALT warning light would be nice.
1638852477790.jpeg
 
HankScorpio said:
Working through the harness. Most of the ProFlo4 stuff is hooked up, waiting on some fuse holders for the fuel pump and fan relays to come in. I want to strip the TBI wiring out while keeping HVAC, lighting and charging intact. I know what a lot of the wires do, still tracing the rest. Keeping main 12v supply wires, crank to the starter, coil wire as switched signal to the ProFlo4 pink wire.

Anyone know about alternators? Is this a 1 wire even though it has 3 wires? Do I need to add a diode for stand alone charging? The post is connected to the battery and the main fuse block, the 2 wire connector heads into the computer plug (computer is removed) and dash. I would love to get charging without the rest of the dash, heading for new gauges eventually. ALT warning light would be nice.
View attachment 397337
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1 wire alternators aren’t really just one wire. They all have a charge and a ground wire so that’s two wires. Then you need an ignition controlled wire to turn it on when the key is turned. Then there’s a voltage sensor wire that controls what the regulator outputs to the charge wire.

That voltage sensor wire should route to your main junction block so the alternator knows how much power is being used by the truck. The one-wire alternators just deactivate this voltage sensor wire by jumping it straight to the alternator charge wire so it always senses 12V defeating the purpose of the sensor wire. In reality this alternators are “one fewer wire” alternators, not “one wire” alternators.

Just figure out which wire on your disconnected TBI plug excites the alternator plug and connect that to a keyed ignition power source. When I added TBI to my 71, I can’t remember if I had to tie it into the computer or not.
 
I can not remember what i had to do to make mine work when I did the PF4 conversion on my '90. It make have only need one wire moved to a different source. My light still works, too. I will try to remember to look for the schematic tonight. Hopefully someone can link one here.
You can get a one wire alternator, they have a different regulator so that you only need the charge wire, nothing external. I have a CS130 one from my old '72. The regulator is the first part into the case, so swapping one in isn't as easy as the older alternators because of the solder connection of the stator.
If you used one on this truck, your light would stay on.
 
When I did mine I did the main wire to the battery, and then 1 wire to 12V switched with a resister in it to mimic the low voltage bulb. If you are going to keep an incandescent low voltage bulb, then you don't need the resistor, just hook it to the correct side of that bulb wire.

They do actually make 1 wire alternators that are truly 1 wire, I run one on my street/strip car. The ground is the alternator housing that bolts to the head. It turns on above a certain RPM. The only problem is, if you are ever on the road away from home and it dies, you can't simly replace it from the parts store. This is why I run a regular with 2 wires on my truck.

From my delco remy CS130 service manual pdf..

alt1.JPG

alt2.JPG
 
when i deleted the original motor on my 1988 K5, changed to serpentine from the standard multi v belt, and added the high amp "cop alternator", i had to do some scrounging. GM made adapters for this very purpose, and i was able to drive over to the local ac/Delco and plop down my 12 bucks. problem solved. plugged it in, and drove off into the sunset. has worked great ever since.

the screenshot of the harness is not exact- is just an image off the googled that looks similar to what I ended up with. I think the 2 different versions have to do with gauge/vs idiot light? if you have a gauge, you need the resistance version of the adapter, and if you have an idiot light, the idiot light acts as the resistance?

harness adapter.jpg

Screenshot alternator.jpg
 
In theory the alternator should stay the same wiring wise. I was just wanting to simplify as much as possible while stripping out the harness. I still have the same alternator just in a different bracket.
 
Radiator just showed up. Appears to be undamaged. Looks like a decent unit for no name China parts. I hope it holds up for the long term.
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HankScorpio said:
Radiator just showed up. Appears to be undamaged. Looks like a decent unit for no name China parts. I hope it holds up for the long term.
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For the price and how well it's worked so far, I can't complain. I'll post a couple pictures of the brackets I added to secure the radiator properly.
 
Basically the height of the radiator was short (slightly) therefore I built a couple spacers using square tube to space up the bottom poly mounts. This also kept the aluminum radiator from rubbing the radiator core along the bottom.

IMG_9345.JPGIMG_9351.JPG
 
HankScorpio said:
Cut the floor open for fuel pump access. Swapped in a new AC Delco pump for more pressure with the ProFlo4. Riveted some 1 1/4"x 1/8" strips around the hole to put the access panel back in with self tappers. Once its running I will silicone it shut. Still easy to remove panel if needed.
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I really want to do this, have the hatch door already but I never feel comfortable with my measurements to actually cut it.

what is your measurements? From side panel and tail gate area?
 
skunked said:
Basically the height of the radiator was short (slightly) therefore I built a couple spacers using square tube to space up the bottom poly mounts. This also kept the aluminum radiator from rubbing the radiator core along the bottom.

View attachment 397446View attachment 397447
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In my 69 c10 I had issue with radiator fitting snug, so for a temporary "fix" I used some old rubber on the bottom mounts to raise it a bit to fit snug.
 
TJ1978 said:
I really want to do this, have the hatch door already but I never feel comfortable with my measurements to actually cut it.

what is your measurements? From side panel and tail gate area?
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Centered left to right. 10" square hole. Started 10" from back of truck. So the hole, measured from the back edge of the floor is from 10" to 20".
 
skunked said:
Basically the height of the radiator was short (slightly) therefore I built a couple spacers using square tube to space up the bottom poly mounts. This also kept the aluminum radiator from rubbing the radiator core along the bottom.

View attachment 397446View attachment 397447
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Looks good. Waiting for the rubber mounts to show up. Just got some random GM ones from Amazon, hopefully they fit. I didn't want to go poly, I think they are too stiff. I feel like the radiator needs secure mounting but making it too tight is going to cause cracks and problems.
 
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