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$200 K5 (454 K5 now) *too much junk in the trunk

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@500$k5 is correct. 12v to the F (I) terminal makes the alternator charge.

Strange 2nd problem:
With the gauge cluster out, the pink wire that previously fed the coil has 12v with the key on and 5v with the key off. Using this wire for the proflo4 switched power signal caused the relay to energize. 5v is enough to trigger the relay. Removing the 20a gauge/idle fuse makes the pink wire 12v key on and 0v key off.
It also fixes the same issue with the fuse block tap for ignition. Going to use it this way for now and see.
Trying to keep everything working with the key and not need a toggle switch for anything.

Electricity is still hard but I'm winning..... I think.
 
HankScorpio said:
@500$k5 is correct. 12v to the F (I) terminal makes the alternator charge.

Strange 2nd problem:
With the gauge cluster out, the pink wire that previously fed the coil has 12v with the key on and 5v with the key off. Using this wire for the proflo4 switched power signal caused the relay to energize. 5v is enough to trigger the relay. Removing the 20a gauge/idle fuse makes the pink wire 12v key on and 0v key off.
It also fixes the same issue with the fuse block tap for ignition. Going to use it this way for now and see.
Trying to keep everything working with the key and not need a toggle switch for anything.

Electricity is still hard but I'm winning..... I think.
Click to expand...
I don’t remember the exact details but I had to add a diode somewhere on the gauge cluster (or alternator?) when I switched to fuel injection as power was back feeding into the ignition and wouldn’t let me shut the motor down. Might look into that, I just can’t remember the details.
 
The "L" terminal on a GM alternator is connected to the diode trio, inside the alternator. When the alternator isn't charging, the "L" terminal is grounded through the rotor. If you hook 12v to one side of an idiot light, and hook the other side of the idiot light to the "L" terminal, the idiot light turns on. When the alternator turns on, the diode trio puts 12 volts onto the "L" wire. This causes the idiot light to go out, as it now has 12v on both sides of the bulb. However, the fun starts, when you hook straight 12v to the "L" terminal, without a light, or resistor wire. If it is full time 12v, the alt stays on, and runs your battery down with the key off. If it is switched 12v, when you start the engine the alternator charges, the trio puts out 12v, and when you turn the key off, the trio keeps the ignition powered up, and you can't turn the engine off.
 
My exhaust guy got a little close on the oil filter. It clears but it almost wont come off for a change. Made a huge mess trying to wiggle it out. Dont really want to cut and weld the pipe if I can avoid it. Fram PH5 was on it. WIX 51060 has same spec on height, 13/16-16 thread, 3.78 diameter and 5.16 tall. Anyone have a part number for one a 1/2" shorter? The cross reference charts keep giving me the same height, I know there are shorter ones that work.
AC Delco PF1218 same spec.

Mabey BOSCH 72235WS at 4.25 tall.
 
Last edited:
Carquest 84099
Product Information
  • Anti-Drain Valve: Yes.
  • Flute count: ...
  • Height: 3.09 in.
  • Outside Diameter: 3.76 in.
  • Thread Pitch: Special.
  • Threads: 13/16-16 in.
  • Type of Filter: Spin-on.
 
HankScorpio said:
My exhaust guy got a little close on the oil filter. It clears but it almost wont come off for a change. Made a huge mess trying to wiggle it out. Dont really want to cut and weld the pipe if I can avoid it. Fram PH5 was on it. WIX 51060 has same spec on height, 13/16-16 thread, 3.78 diameter and 5.16 tall. Anyone have a part number for one a 1/2" shorter? The cross reference charts keep giving me the same height, I know there are shorter ones that work.
AC Delco PF1218 same spec.

Mabey BOSCH 72235WS at 4.25 tall.
Click to expand...
Interesting idea I saw on the 'gram. Guy used a center punch to put a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain it out before or while spinning it off. Maybe you could hole your filter before removal so the mess is minimized.
 
mrk5 said:
Interesting idea I saw on the 'gram. Guy used a center punch to put a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain it out before or while spinning it off. Maybe you could hole your filter before removal so the mess is minimized.
Click to expand...
This is common practice in the big rig world where filters hold 2-3 quarts or more, punching a hole makes them lighter when they come off and also eliminates getting a bath if you accidentally drop it.
 
The Blazer is still great. Hot weather, top down, cant beat it.

I'm having some trouble with the valvetrain I think. Truck runs great. I get rocker noise, tapping, sometimes. Its not consistent. I can fire it up and drive to the store, everything fine. Hop back in it and significant tapping in the valvetrain. Shut it off and restart. Sometimes the noise will continue. Other times its quiet. It doesn't seem to be hot or cold related. Sometimes I can start it cold the next day and its noisy, other times silent. No change in how it runs or power difference. ProFlo4 is working great.

MarkIV Big Block, fresh rebuild, Bored and balanced, Edelbrock performer cam and lifters. ProFlo4.
I had a now closed machine shop rebuild it just as I had kids. It sat in the garage bagged for 10 years until life calmed down and I put it in this Blazer. I primed it with a distributor tool and had ok oil pressure on 10w30 but it was a little low hot. It was broken in on 10w30 with Crane cams high zinc additive. 1st oil change I also put some Lucas zinc break in additive. I am now running Rotella 15w40 and I like the pressures better. 55+ cold, 30 hot. About 1000 miles now. The noises did not happen immediately, this started in the last few hundred miles while still on 10w30.

If the valvetrain (rockers) needed adjustment I think it would tap all the time. If it was a bearing or something else I feel it should tap all the time. This makes me think it has a bad lifter. I don't know a lot about how hydraulic lifters work. Its been a long time since I did a cam on a V8. Can a lifter be intermittent? If I replace them what should I buy instead?

With the machine shop closed I don't have anyone knowledgeable to talk to about it locally. My car buddies agree with my thoughts but don't have much valvetrain experience either. I even had a buddy come over to hear it and it was quiet that time of course. You guys have a ton of knowledge, HELP!
 
Sounds like a sticky lifter. You could try some marvel mystery oil or seafoam treatments. My stroker motor in the k5 does the same thing. I attribute it to crap parts. My 4.0 jeep does the same thing. Always random and intermittent.
 
Fastereddie said:
Sounds like a sticky lifter. You could try some marvel mystery oil or seafoam treatments. My stroker motor in the k5 does the same thing. I attribute it to crap parts. My 4.0 jeep does the same thing. Always random and intermittent.
Click to expand...
I should add, both have been rebuilt within the last ten years also. The 383 are Howard’s cam and lifters and the jeep are cheap enginetech parts. Both run excellent, but every now and then, tick tick tick…
 
Fastereddie said:
I should add, both have been rebuilt within the last ten years also. The 383 are Howard’s cam and lifters and the jeep are cheap enginetech parts. Both run excellent, but every now and then, tick tick tick…
Click to expand...
My ticking is pretty often but not constant or consistent. I have read about bad lifters lately both searching here and other stuff online. I was hoping being parts from 10 years ago they might have been better quality than the currently produced stuff. I like Edelbrock but they are pretty mass market as far as performance parts are concerned. I will try seafoam now. Is using Marvel mystery oil kind of the same procedure as seafoam?
 
With the engine sitting bagged for years I was a bit worried about sticky assembly lube and such. I really primed the heck out of it and thought I had gotten away with it when it started up fine and was quiet at first.
 
My buddy uses Seafoam in everything he owns and swears by it. It’s definitely great as a fuel stabilizer. I’m sworn to it now. I used marvel mystery oil in my big block to free up some sticky valves and it worked.
 
Lets talk some theory while we are at it. Pressurized oil comes into the side of the lifter, expanding it, which takes slop out of the pushrod and cushions it. The oil then heads out of the top of the lifter into the center hole of the pushrod and splash oils the rockers before heading back to the pan. Sound right?
 
HankScorpio said:
Lets talk some theory while we are at it. Pressurized oil comes into the side of the lifter, expanding it, which takes slop out of the pushrod and cushions it. The oil then heads out of the top of the lifter into the center hole of the pushrod and splash oils the rockers before heading back to the pan. Sound right?
Click to expand...
Sounds sound to me.
 
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