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2000 Buick Sleeper build - 2nd engine trashed!

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New front O2 sensor and now everything is working well. Took it to 50-60% throttle and it was pulling really nice. I need to work on my paranoia so I can hammer down. Need to get the plate and insurance back on.
 
Blue85 said:
New front O2 sensor and now everything is working well. Took it to 50-60% throttle and it was pulling really nice. I need to work on my paranoia so I can hammer down. Need to get the plate and insurance back on.
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Good to hear Luke. Do you plan on another dyno session? Or are you just going to rock the current tuning?
 
I'm gonna drive it as is, get a scanner that can read knock retard and possibly mess with smaller pulleys later. They told me the tune was done and theoretically that's correct. You just don't want to go too much higher on boost.
 
It's back on DD duty now. Did some runs at 50% throttle last night and this morning my son asked why I was peeling out while he was trying to sleep :-)

Need to fix a couple issues with the A/C before it gets hot again.
 
A/C fixed. Just needed a Schrader valve and one of the compressor clutch coil connector pins was bent. I got lucky I guess, because I was all set up to swap out that coil. A little oil, pull some vacuum and a full charge of hydrocarbons and dye for $13. Blows cold now. For time/money invested, this should have a good payoff.
 
So..... I put about 35,000 miles on the Grandpa National since this engine went in. Not a lot of updates besides new wheels and fixing the ABS/traction. I get some races here and there - spanked an Audi S4, a new Challenger, some WRX. I can roll at low speed, then hammer down and break the tires loose. In the rain, they'll break loose at freeway speeds.

But my engine is trashed now. I guess I was running some kind of glitter oil :doah:. The "Change Engine" light came on yesterday (the one that looks like a genie lamp). I tested the oil pressure switch and it triggers around 5psi :eek1:. Tested the pressure to vary from 10-20psi in the garage. So it's chicken and egg whether low pressure killed the bearings or damaged bearings lowered the pressure. It could be the 6500RPM WOT shift I did last week destroying a Duramax who thought he was hot.

This design is stupid:
  1. No oil pressure gauge, even though that's the life or death of your engine
  2. The oil pressure warning triggers way too low (it's too late)
  3. The logic on the switch is backwards, such that unplugging it, cutting the wire or a failed switch keeps the lamp off.
Was never low on oil, never ran hot, never made any noise. All I have to do is put in fresh oil, unplug the pressure switch and post on Craigslist! :ignore:

Sort of want to just move onto some super simple MPG machine, but I know I would miss the torque. Makes sense to fix it either way since you can't get much for a non-runner.
 
I forgot about this build. Gotta love sleepers. Too bad about the engine though...

Why not do some A pillar gauges with oil pressure, boost, a/f?
 
You won't be surprised to know that an oil pressure gauge is on my want list. The rest is available on OBDII, but there is no sensor for oil pressure. There is a switch for oil LEVEL, which is pretty handy. So I would plumb a T-connector off the oil pressure switch port for an actual sender. It's just 1/4" NPT.


I have a lead on a low mileage L32 (N/A Series II 3800). These are theoretically weaker, but have been proven in super and turbo builds. The increased compression ratio would require tweaks to the tuning, but the L67 top end on the L32 is generally considered a winner. The L32 even has dual patterns drilled in the flexplate for either torque converter. I may drag home a wrecked car for the donor and part out the rest to get my money back.
 
The L32 is the Gen3 SC motor, I think you're looking at an L36.

Nothing wrong with tossing a used motor in there, maybe check out Morad Parts Co and see what he has kicking around. I was going to pickup something from him last time I did a swap, but ended up with a donor car.

Was this last motor rebuilt? I don't think I've ever seen anyone get the tolerances right on a rebuilt L67, they all turn to glitter after a couple years.

-Rob
 
Yes, you're correct. I'm talking about a series II N/A, which is L36. I would be happy with an L32, but prices seem way higher than L67. I have not rebuilt an engine yet. This one was pulled from a wrecked GTP with like 120k. I checked with Morad and he does have a 57k engine, but $1350 sounds a little high to me. I can find 160,000 mile engines all day long for $3-$400. I've also found some complete wrecked cars around $500.
 
I picked this up for it today:


M120724.4.jpg



Hah! If I had one, it would go into something bigger and blue-er.
 
I've got a briggs 18HP twin in the barn I could fit a hair dryer to.
 
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