CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

2000 GMC SAS: Hydro assist assistance

I took mine to a local truck tire place and they used 2 cheetas and blew em right on, all 4 for 25.00. Now thats with em on the wheels for that price. Id rather do that than the either and a match idea, which is not good for the tires.
 
Were you using a clip on air chuck? I use a clip on air chuck, and kick the tire right after I light the flame.

Martin

Yep, clip on chuck, girlfriend running the valve on the compressor. Hit it with my cheater pipe, kicked it, threw stuff at it. No luck. The last one was about 95% tread on the outside and around 50% on the inside. I assume the tire may by out of round or something causing it to not want to seat.

Those wide ass wheels make it super difficult as well. I love mounting tires on 6"-6.75" wide OEM wheels as opposed to those 9.75" wheels.

Martin

Exactly. I did get the first two in about 4 tries total. The third one seated the front bead, so I put the tire on some5 6x6 blocks, clipped the chuck on and stood in the rim until it started to take air.

I took mine to a local truck tire place and they used 2 cheetas and blew em right on, all 4 for 25.00. Now thats with em on the wheels for that price. Id rather do that than the either and a match idea, which is not good for the tires.

No cheetah tanks around here as far as I've found. They're mounting semi tires with fire at the one place that will touch used tires. If I cant get one of the other 2 tires to seat relatively easy I'll seek out a cheetah. I just hate to drive 40+ miles to have someone do something I can usually do myself.
 
Do you have a welder? You can build one. That's what a lot of guys I know have done. Just use an old R12 or R134a freon cannister or air pig and weld a pipe to the sidr and thread on a ball valve.

Martin
 
I found a friend with a manual tire changer. I've never used one. I need one. I've been searching craigslist all evening. Got one of the other tires mounted up, seems to be in good shape. No cracking, but its got the least tread of the 4 on the truck. 1 is still leaking slowly on the bead. May have gotten some dirt in there. Here's a picture of the truck in mall crawler mode.

GMCH1tires.jpg


It drives nice, speedo is about 5mph off. Oddly, I've got a little bit of wheel hop in the dirt, didnt have that with the boggers. Other than that they should work fine for what I want to do with them. Anyone have a good solution for securing a spare in the bed?

Do you have a welder? You can build one. That's what a lot of guys I know have done. Just use an old R12 or R134a freon cannister or air pig and weld a pipe to the sidr and thread on a ball valve.

Martin

I was about to that point, and I may do so in the future.
 
At some point all of my pickups have had a tire just chained to a tie down in the bed.


That may not be wheel hop. Those 36's are vibrating mofo's. I had a set on Big Ugly and they were impossible to balance. Pounds of weight AND balancing beads couldn't get them balanced. Now I have a few HMMWV's at my disposal with them and while decent offroad they shake those things too.
 
At some point all of my pickups have had a tire just chained to a tie down in the bed.


That may not be wheel hop. Those 36's are vibrating mofo's. I had a set on Big Ugly and they were impossible to balance. Pounds of weight AND balancing beads couldn't get them balanced. Now I have a few HMMWV's at my disposal with them and while decent offroad they shake those things too.

I've got it strapped down now, I figured I'd find some cable and lock it down.

Last night I learned exactly what you mean by shake. I rotated the good tread tires to the rear. Talk about shake. Death wobble starting at 35. Rotated them back to the rear, wobble gone. Who would have thought.
They run nice and smooth on the highway though.

I'm going to pull the rear spring pack apart again, add another leaf or two out of a 2" lift 52 pack I have and flip the overload back the right way. I should have never pulled that spring out of the pack. Its got a lot of sag in the rear and its just getting worse. I'm to the point of looking to have them re arched or finding another set of springs in the salvage yard if I cant get the arch back with the 52's and overloads back in.
 
I thought Big Ugly had death wobble. It basically did. My ex refused to drive it after seeing me fight the horrid shaking it did when cold. When the tires warmed up they were good though. Still, was a bit scary when they were cold and really bumpy.
I replaced them with some 38" 11.00R16 Michelin XL's. Holy crap! Thing rode smooth, handled great, and had NO DEATH WOBBLE. Not even a hint of skeevy steering. Just by changing the tires.

I just got a length of some heavy duty chain, wrapped it around the tire and the tie down, and padlocked it in place. Figured the chain could be useful for more than just spare retention if need be. Worked great but can't say I jumped my trucks.
 
I figure since everyone else uses their build threads to share some other projects I'd jump on the bandwagon. Probably paid a little more than I should, but I've been wanting one for years. Plan to get it running, put a bed on it or bob it and sell it and buy a few more. Seems pretty complete, I previewed it yesterday, they just removed the fire fighting equipment off the back of it, so its a cab and chassis at the moment.

Should have it by the end of the week, I'm pretty excited.

GSADeuce.JPG
 
Brought the deuce home today, about 55 miles behind the Dodge. Pretty good ride. The forklift operator dented the oil pan trying to pull the truck out of its hole. A previous forklift destroyed the driver side step, toolbox, and damaged the driveshaft, so I told him to go ahead and pick it up in the same spot.

Deuce1.jpg


It fits in the shop.

IMG_1318.jpg


Its missing some injection pump parts, the part that deals with the multifuel part of the truck. Hopefully I'll be able to find parts, I'd really like to drive the truck instead of parting it out.
 
Love the deuce!!!


reverting back to your truck build. do you have front frame width measurements? (frame to frame on your front mount and at the rear mounts where the frame is)

so i can compare?
 
Deuce runs. Been working on it for about 20 straight hours. A guy off steel soldiers who lived about 40 miles away gave me the fuel system parts I needed, what luck. After about 12 hours of tinkering with everything in the fuel system I got it to fire. I'll post a video up later if I get a chance. Havent driven it, got to bleed the brakes.

Love the deuce!!!


reverting back to your truck build. do you have front frame width measurements? (frame to frame on your front mount and at the rear mounts where the frame is)

so i can compare?

I'll grab a measurement of the rear in the next few days when I pull it inside. If I forget just remind me again. I know the front frame rails are the same width as the GM spring pads center to center. 32" if I recall.
 
i need to do the breaks on my deuce... all the fluid leaked out from a leaky wheel cylinder... haven't checked steel soldiers yet... but ive yet to locate where i even put the fluid..
 
i need to do the breaks on my deuce... all the fluid leaked out from a leaky wheel cylinder... haven't checked steel soldiers yet... but ive yet to locate where i even put the fluid..

In the drivers side floorboard there's a hinged door. There's a line off the top with a 3/8th nut on it and under that is the master cylinder cap. Its a 3/4 square nut. A funnel will fit through the hole above cap. Pretty easy to do with someone to run the brakes. That fluid sprays right out of there under pressure, we bled mine in about 15 minutes. Orileys and autozone both had DOT5 fluid.

I put a male air fitting into the fitting under the dash and put the shop compressor on it to keep air on the truck.

Havent forgotten to take the measurement of the GMC, been swamped with deuce stuff.
 
no problem, I appreciate it, Glad your duece is coming along, people would kill for a rig like that
 
Since there wasnt much interest in this when I started I didnt feel the need to document the build, but I figured I'd show where I am now for anyone else looking to do a similar swap.

This is the end of phase 1. I will drive it like this for a week or so before I start working on the rest of it. I've still got to figure out how to get my 14 bolt in it, get the 205 behind it and figure out what to do about a VSS, figure out a front shock tower, get it tuned, get exhaust, and get drivelines built. Dont mind the random u bolt on the pumpkin side or the hacked tractor 3 point thing in the steering, a good u bolt and ORD drag link are on the way. Its just like this to check clearance around the yard. And I still dont trust it.

I used stock 4 spring 52's with the overload and a zero rate to move the front forward 1.5" to get it out of the rear of the fender. Its got an ORD 4" shackle flip in the rear with a short shackle. I used sky rear hangers and a DIY4X universal mount in front. Rear springs are stock, I plan on flipping the overload since they are barely working with no weight on the rear. Anyway.. As always, cell phone pictures

Cruz,

I think you did an excellent job ditching the IFS. That was the most important part of your build. I will be starting the same project tomorrow. I will try to document my work to make it easier on future CK5 SAS jobs.
 
Its been about a year with the SAS done, and I'm nearing 10k miles. I'm still driving it nearly every day. I put another spring back in the rear pack and flipped the overload back over. It seems much better. Still lacks a little flex, but it's not sagging nearly as much and still rides pretty good. The rear Goodyears dont like the detroit, they are wearing pretty quickly. I need to pick up 2 more. I've been back to the boggers a time or two, looks much better, but the mileage isnt anywhere near the same as the goodyears.

Missed the Disney trip a few months ago, so it hasnt done much wheeling, just messing around locally. Been cash poor, as usual. I'd like to make a dune trip in the next few months though.

The only failures to date, minus the broken adapter which was my fault, is a burnt out headlight and a leaking front output seal that I've replaced 3 times. The cluster is also starting to have problems.

With 170k on the ticker it makes a hell of a racket at startup, but no smoke and no leaks. It doesnt burn any oil, which seems to be unusual for an early 6.0.

We were supposed to get a blizzard on christmas. Here's pictures from those near white out conditions that they predicted.

GMCblizzard_zpse5771043.jpg


We drove an hour south to find this.

GMCblizzard2_zps0e3a0d32.jpg


I love long wheelbased trucks with lockers on ice.
 
Looks great. I agree about your 6.0, they are supposed to make a hel of a racket but thats good news with no smoke. Started my thread for my 01, get ready for some PM's coming your way.

And fix those 1st post pics!! We Like pics
 
Nothing major. I still drive it damn near daily. Ended up buying a few sets of 37" hummer tires for a good deal and put 4 on the truck with a 2" wheel spacer. Night and day difference. If I had a sway bar you wouldn't be able to tell there was anything different about the truck driving it. All of my shake and wobble issues went away instantly. The bfgs are the best riding quietest big tire I've ever driven. Most of them were even balanced.

The ac has stopped working, and if I can't figure it out I will probably post up in the garage. It's charged. Jumping the pressure switches gets nothing. Swapping the ac controls with a known good control does nothing. But jumping the relay in the fuse box results in cold air. Any ideas?

Anyway,Here's a picture on the new wheels.

image.jpg
 
Those look awesome! Just need to get yourself a color matched box :haha:

As far as the AC goes, just the compressor actually cycle when you jump the relay? I suspect that the relay only controls just the compressor's clutch. It shouldn't stay running all the time. These trucks have the PCM controlling the AC entirely, so perhaps one of the pressure sensors has failed?
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom