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CK5
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2000 GMT400 CREW CAB SFA SWAP-The Warden: Fuel leak fixed and awaiting surgery…
- Thread starter GWeakland620
- Start date
The ultimate goal for this truck is tow duty/family camping trips/small offroad adventures.
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I had the same issue, so I just pulled the bulb.
I may just do that then.
Did you ever try hooking up the front sensors and just letting it function normally?
Having functional ABS isn't a terrible thing...
Having functional ABS isn't a terrible thing...
I must be getting old. 
It would requite splicing the wires, and I am missing one side of the sensor plugs. I'm not abandoning the idea, just skipping it for now.
Yes, yes we are.I must be getting old.
Seriously? Splicing 2 wires per side? You can do this. Skipping it will cost you more work in the long run.
How would removal go if I ever needed to pull the hubs?
Unhook the plug like on any normal truck?
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I removed the fuse and entire abs unit. No light on the dash
It’s only 4 bolts to pull the cluster so you could remove the bulb if you wanted
Also the abs failure lamp signal should be pin C8 of connector c100 (the bulk head one by the driver feet) at least it is for 97-99.
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Early ABS systems suck to start with. Failures with the module and pump assembly are common with age too. Add to that the age of the vehicles and there is a lack of replacement parts to go to besides used. I'm having trouble getting ABS units for vehicles in the mid 2000's for customers. If we could it's in the thousand dollar range or better. GM (any manufacturer) are not supporting anything beyond 10 years. I'd ditch the garbage myself. I don't see this rig being his DD in sloppy winter stuff anyway. It just adds complexity both on the hydraulic side and the electrical. I deleted the RWAL garbage off of my 91 mainly because the stupid ABS only proportioning valve leaked and would not allow us to bleed the rear circuit. They used that system for 2 years 90-91 and the later GMT400 stuff don't cross over. So it was delete it or get started on a search for a part that had been discontinued for 20 years or so. I did search through the GM dealer locator and even Vintage parts, an outfit that buys up old dead dealer parts inventory didn't have it. Sealed the deal for me. 5 minute phone call to the local boneyard got me the lines and stock non-abs prop valve needed to retrograde my system.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Even in sloppy snow I prefer not having ABS, its not hard to feel slipping and modulate your foot accordingly. If you arent familiar with what a wheel locking up feels like to your foot you should probably learn. It has a distinct feeling and sound. Maybe that's just the motorcycle rider in me but playing with traction limits is daily practice for me on the bike in the summer, and in the truck during the winter.
Dont get me wrong, I am not one of those people who thinks I can brake better/harder/faster than a modern computer. Those things are awesome in modern stock vehicles, just stomp your foot down hard and let jesus take the wheel. But a SAS'd truck on 37's is far from stock.
Fair 'nuff. The best part of my 'traction control' system is the button that turns it off.
Younger me would have never imagined wanting ABS. I definitely have become familiar with wintertime slippage, it's just a part of life. But someday that nanny function just might save my life, when I make some kind of mistake and it compensates.
Like Treefarm said, ABS on new vehicles isn't a bad thing. For most of the drivers out there it's a brainless activity, mash the pedal and it stops. It also explains why when people get panic-stricken when a fault sets and turns the light on. They think the vehicle won't stop at all with the ABS light on.
If I splice the wires, it would mean removing the only plug in the system. It would essentially be hard wired from hub to ABS unit. I don't like that idea.
Nobody likes that idea. Plugs are a happy invention.
Block heater works awesome.
Got home from work last night and truck sat for a little over an hour. Temp on the block read 87*. I plugged the block heater in and within 2 minutes the heater read 130*. I then let it sit plugged in for 2 hours while I replaced the brakes on the wife's Tahoe. I checked it after I got done and the entire block read 125*, and even the upper radiator hose read 125*. There was even an area on the windsheild that didn't have any dew on it from the radiating heat coming off of the heater core.
I then left it plugged in all night to see if it would trip any breakers like the last one did. Woke up this morning to a partially warm cab and a perfectly working block heater.
I'm so happy that issue has been resolved.
Got home from work last night and truck sat for a little over an hour. Temp on the block read 87*. I plugged the block heater in and within 2 minutes the heater read 130*. I then let it sit plugged in for 2 hours while I replaced the brakes on the wife's Tahoe. I checked it after I got done and the entire block read 125*, and even the upper radiator hose read 125*. There was even an area on the windsheild that didn't have any dew on it from the radiating heat coming off of the heater core.
I then left it plugged in all night to see if it would trip any breakers like the last one did. Woke up this morning to a partially warm cab and a perfectly working block heater.
I'm so happy that issue has been resolved.
So I haven't driven this truck in a couple weeks. The pump issues came back and 3x's worse. 2 new added codes to the CEL. Replaced the lift pump thinking that was contributing to the weak pump issues, but no go. Got a new PCM yesterday just to try incase it's something in the computer, but haven't had time to swap it yet. Worse case scenario, the 180k pump has finally bit the dust. I'll get it replaced and not have to worry about that for a very long time.
Thanks to @F.S.F.W @78K30 and @campfire for the group text of encouragement and brainstorming.
Thanks to @F.S.F.W @78K30 and @campfire for the group text of encouragement and brainstorming.
