CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

2000 GMT400 CREW CAB SFA SWAP-The Warden: Fuel leak fixed and awaiting surgery…

The ultimate goal for this truck is tow duty/family camping trips/small offroad adventures.
How do you get around them?

Find a threaded coupling / rubber line set from a 6.2 rig?

Here is what I have driving my heater core (as seen from the front, in the dark, in my driveway). Rubber hose with a basic hardware-store barbed-->NPT pipe fitting.

IMGP2779.JPG

I haven't swapped one of these onto a 6.5, but when I stared at them side by side they looked easily compatible. Not sure why GM switched away from the simple couplings, but I'm guessing the aluminum + plastic had to be cheaper than the rubber + brass. :dunno:
 
Or you can just use what you have and live with the leak. Can you replace the plastic piece inside the coupler? :dunno:
It's held up for 170k miles, so I may just replace it with factory stuff. But if it's easy enough, I may go with the barbed fitting route.

I really am happy I found this. This puts the cracked head/block theory to rest. Which is nice.
 
It's held up for 170k miles, so I may just replace it with factory stuff. But if it's easy enough, I may go with the barbed fitting route.

I really am happy I found this. This puts the cracked head/block theory to rest. Which is nice.
My dad had the same thing happen on his. Of course it broke off and he had to fish the little chunks out with a dental pick....lol
 
That settles it in my mind, since the coolant leak is external and not internal, your smoke is likely the product of glow plugs not doing their job entirely and piston ring wear, both of which are normal in older diesels. Could you take a video of your truck while cold starting it, showing the exhaust? That'll help a lot.
 
That settles it in my mind, since the coolant leak is external and not internal, your smoke is likely the product of glow plugs not doing their job entirely and piston ring wear, both of which are normal in older diesels. Could you take a video of your truck while cold starting it, showing the exhaust? That'll help a lot.

Yes, that would help a lot.

Have you taken an ohmmeter to the plugs lately? And you never answered my question about GP cycle timing. :deal:

@GWeakland620
 
You guys are awesome. That video is almost perfect. Mine isn't THAT hard to start, but the same color. If I run 2 cycles on the glow plugs it starts up a little easier. The cycle time is about 6-7 seconds. I still need to stick my meter on them to see what it's pushing. But it appears I shouldn't have cheaped out on my GP's.
 
You guys are awesome. That video is almost perfect. Mine isn't THAT hard to start, but the same color. If I run 2 cycles on the glow plugs it starts up a little easier. The cycle time is about 6-7 seconds. I still need to stick my meter on them to see what it's pushing. But it appears I shouldn't have cheaped out on my GP's.
we do it nice, cuz we do it twice.

I think we've all learned that lesson once or twice.
 
I think Daystar or someone makes a lower air bag mount that the bag just sits in and its not attached so that when off roading it can still flex. I know carli or some pre-runner place does long travel air bags but they are the sleeve style and I don't like them. Should be easy to fab something up with your skils.
 
I think Daystar or someone makes a lower air bag mount that the bag just sits in and its not attached so that when off roading it can still flex. I know carli or some pre-runner place does long travel air bags but they are the sleeve style and I don't like them. Should be easy to fab something up with your skils.
A link was posted a few pages back. Air Lift makes a nice kits for lifted trucks. Should only be around $450.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom