What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

AJMBLAZER said:
Out of curiosity what happened with the Majic paint?
Click to expand...
It wouldn't even begin to stick to the primer. I followed the directions and there were lumps in it, places the primer was still visible, and after 48hr curing I scraped the paint away from the primer with my thumbnail trying to free a bush bristle.

1000008315.jpg

1000008316.jpg
 
TerryD said:
It wouldn't even begin to stick to the primer. I followed the directions and there were lumps in it, places the primer was still visible, and after 48hr curing I scraped the paint away from the primer with my thumbnail trying to free a bush bristle.

View attachment 483552

View attachment 483553
Click to expand...
Again, this was after a single coat cured for over 48hr.
 
Well that's no good.

Always had good luck with Rustoleum myself.
 
Loved the TrXus MT’s I had years ago. Ran 255/85R16’s on my Ranger. Wider might be a bit better if you’re doing slick shit.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Loved the TrXus MT’s I had years ago. Ran 255/85R16’s on my Ranger. Wider might be a bit better if you’re doing slick shit.
Click to expand...
I love pizza cutters and with Interco it might not be as big an issue with availabilities since they ALL have to be ordered.
 
I have used the Majic paints on a dog box, axle, and a few other things. It took a long time to dry and harden (5-6 days) but once it did it has been really durable. I'll prob use Rustoleum next time though, because of the prolonged dry time.
 
Got the GenRight bumper and my winch installed over the last couple days.

1000008533.jpg


And had a super weird thing happen yesterday.

I was working on my bumper and some buddies called from the Jeep Trail above the house. As friends do, they were giving me down the road about not being out on the trail (even though I was literally wrenching on my rig).

So I threw the bumper on, found a couple tools I needed and headed out to run in from the west end and meet them. On the way up the mountain I aired down to 15 and took off a little quicker. Suddenly the dash lit up like a Christmas tree, oil pressure dropped to zero, and it started bucking and jumping. I stopped and the oil pressure came back up but there was a knock.

First thought was spun rod bearing but I shut it down and checked the converter bolts and a couple thing. It's a 4.0L so they're good for 30k miles with a rock knock (lol) so I just keep on toward the trail.

I stopped on the trail and scoped the noise with a long screwdriver, but there was no report on the knock through the block or valve cover or any of the accessories. *shrug*

I just kept getting it till I ran into my buddies. Crawled around on a couple obstacles and then followed them off the trail. By the time we hit the gravel road, the knock was almost gone. By the time we made it to their camp, you had to strain to pick it out over the usual 4.0L rattles.

Drove it home and parked it, wasn't even sure it was knocking by the time I got home. Then this morning took it out to wash it and the knock is completely gone. I changed the oil this morning, took the converter looser and the flex plate is tight to the crank and seems to be OK. Bolted the converter back up and still no knock.

The two prevailing theories are:
Mine: I WAS a little low on oil (just below bottom mark) so I'm thinking I pumped a bunch of oil up on the head, lost pressure and collapsed a lifter and it took a couple heat cycles to pump up completely.

Matt's: starter bendix bounced out and stuck so that it made contact with the flex plate and after several starts, completely retracted and the noise disappeared.
 
Rod knocks don’t tend to go away, my money is on something besides an oil issue
 
Drove the Jeep up to Harrisonburg and wheeled Union Springs and Dunkle Hollow with some buddies yesterday.

It's absolutely a blast to wheel. That 4:1 low takes some getting used to. I was running 3rd gear with the converter locked for a good bit of it.

E load tires are a bit stiff. I was running 12psi and you couldn't tell I let any air out.
 
TerryD said:
Got the GenRight bumper and my winch installed over the last couple days.

View attachment 484105


And had a super weird thing happen yesterday.

I was working on my bumper and some buddies called from the Jeep Trail above the house. As friends do, they were giving me down the road about not being out on the trail (even though I was literally wrenching on my rig).

So I threw the bumper on, found a couple tools I needed and headed out to run in from the west end and meet them. On the way up the mountain I aired down to 15 and took off a little quicker. Suddenly the dash lit up like a Christmas tree, oil pressure dropped to zero, and it started bucking and jumping. I stopped and the oil pressure came back up but there was a knock.

First thought was spun rod bearing but I shut it down and checked the converter bolts and a couple thing. It's a 4.0L so they're good for 30k miles with a rock knock (lol) so I just keep on toward the trail.

I stopped on the trail and scoped the noise with a long screwdriver, but there was no report on the knock through the block or valve cover or any of the accessories. *shrug*

I just kept getting it till I ran into my buddies. Crawled around on a couple obstacles and then followed them off the trail. By the time we hit the gravel road, the knock was almost gone. By the time we made it to their camp, you had to strain to pick it out over the usual 4.0L rattles.

Drove it home and parked it, wasn't even sure it was knocking by the time I got home. Then this morning took it out to wash it and the knock is completely gone. I changed the oil this morning, took the converter looser and the flex plate is tight to the crank and seems to be OK. Bolted the converter back up and still no knock.

The two prevailing theories are:
Mine: I WAS a little low on oil (just below bottom mark) so I'm thinking I pumped a bunch of oil up on the head, lost pressure and collapsed a lifter and it took a couple heat cycles to pump up completely.

Matt's: starter bendix bounced out and stuck so that it made contact with the flex plate and after several starts, completely retracted and the noise disappeared.
Click to expand...
New knock theory.

In the past few weeks I've noticed the Jeep is down on power. These things aren't amazingly powerful to begin with but trying to maintain 65 on a slightly uphill grade it will shift to 3rd and the pedal is on the floor.

In researching primary cat failures (throwing codes for both since I bought it) it seems it's very very common for the core to come out in large sections.

My current theory is that the harsh road caused a large piece to drop out and plug at the Y between the bank 1 and bank 2 cats. The pulsing of the engine as it ran caused the knock as the piece/pieces were bounced around. That would explain it pretty much dying on the side of the road. It would also explain why the engine wouldn't rev over about 3k RPM immediately after the knock started.

As the piece/pieces broke up, the knock went away but the debris plugged the secondary cat and is causing my power loss.

A full new exhaust system and cats are ordered. It needed cats and I wanted a aFe hi-tuck exhaust for it eventually anyway so since they were on sale, I boy mathed it out and ordered them.
 
The front pinion is starting to thump so it's getting pinion bearings and probably u-joints in the axle shafts as a stop-gap till I can foot the bill for a regear.

Does anyone know why I shouldn't use a standard D44 1330 u-bolt style pinion yoke on this VS the stock one with straps? There's a foot note about higher operating angle on Denny's Driveshaft's website but I can't find any further info.
 
I'm getting ready to order gears. Going to 33s soon, possibly 35s eventually but no certainty.

I'm torn between 4.88s and 5.13s. I know the 5.13s will be howling on the highway when it drops in 3rd, but it's only about 125rpm difference in 4th at 70mph.

I live in the mountains and I wouldn't mind the extra gearing but I'm still standoffish on the 5.13s.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom