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241 tailshaft pic - is this normal?

AJMBLAZER

AJMBLAZER

Better to be lucky than good.
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This is the NP241C in The Blazer. Standard whatever that came in a '89 and the truck, if anything, sits a little rear low compared to when it was new.

I was crawling around underneath it yesterday taking the running boards off and discovered I have ATF being thrown all over the place by the output yoke of the transfer case. I figure probably the seal...right? Seems like these all leak there. Then I noticed how far the yoke seems to be pulled out and the "shiny" area of the yoke...almost as if it were lifted or something...however it's bone stock.

:confused:

rear yoke 241.jpg
 
The exposed shiny surface of the output yoke is travel from the suspension compressing.

The underside of my burb was always coated in ATF from the output seal as well
 
Thanks. Not used to seeing that much tailshaft I guess.

Never done this on a GM before...pull front u-joint, pull out tailshaft, pull out seal, put in new seal, put tailshaft in, put in u-joint and driveshaft?
 
No need to mess with the driveshaft other than remove it. Have a catch pan ready, some ATF will spill out when you remove the output yoke. I have found it much easier to put the new seal in by reamoving the tailshaft housing from the T-case and getting it up on the bench where I can tap the seal in straight. RTV on tailshaft housing and bolt back on.
 
it's not hard to change those seals out whle it's still on the case, remove the driveshaft, pry out the old seal, clean the surface area real good, tap the new seal in place evenly distributing the hitting force all the way around.

there's enough room under a truck to do all of this.
 
What do you guys use to tap the seal in?


Oh, and the guy at NAPA keeps talking about a bushing kit in relation to this. What is it and do I need it?
 
i just use my hammer, a regular ol hammer, just be easy on it, light taps all around until it starts to "stick/grab" on it's own, then work it in all the way around some more.
 
Been a while since I was that far under mine, but I think your shiney may be the lack of a seal.. pretty sure mine comes out a bit past the tailhousing, and I don't see any rubber in your pic.

Also mine doesn't leak nor do I have any shiney even after lifting it.. I don't think it came out hardly at all.
 
dont use a screwdriver, buy a seal puller, learned that the hard way, be very careful not to gouge the grove the seal sits in, very easy to do, esp with the screwdriver...
 
Thanks guys.

Seal puller eh? Have to grab one of those.

Big Ugly's always had a slight leak back there. You can tell it leaks and that it throws the ATF around a bit...The Blazer literally has ATF all over everything from rocker to rocker in a big oval around the output. That's why it became a priority.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Oh, and the guy at NAPA keeps talking about a bushing kit in relation to this. What is it and do I need it?
Click to expand...

Having a good bushing in there will make the seal last a lot longer

However, minor oil leaks throughout the drivetrain can be the key to keeping the floor from rusting. :laugh:
 
Oh, I hear you on that. Not worried about it with this thing but slight leaks worry me a lot less than 5' wide oval shaped patterns...



So the bushings...any harder to remove or install than the seal itself? I wanna say NAPA said $10 and they have one and I have to go right back down there in a little while anyways.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Big Ugly's always had a slight leak back there. You can tell it leaks and that it throws the ATF around a bit...The Blazer literally has ATF all over everything from rocker to rocker in a big oval around the output. That's why it became a priority.
Click to expand...
Blue85 said:
However, minor oil leaks throughout the drivetrain can be the key to keeping the floor from rusting. :laugh:
Click to expand...

I'm surprised GM didn't advertise that as an automatic undercarriage oiling system. :D
 
cdoggwsu said:
I'm surprised GM didn't advertise that as an automatic undercarriage oiling system. :D
Click to expand...
That's the standard "corrosion prevention system".:haha:
The bushing would probably be a lot easier if you took the tailhousing off so you could work on it on a bench.
 
That's today's project now. Yesterday became "oh **** it's 80 degrees in the house - better put the AC in...oh crap, the old mount won't work with the new expensively pretty window..." day.


So the bushing...wtf does it go? Looks like a piece of exhaust tubing to me.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
So the bushing...wtf does it go? Looks like a piece of exhaust tubing to me.
Click to expand...
The yoke rides in the bushing to keep it from flopping around. If the bushing is worn out, the yoke will wobble and allow more leakage, since it's not always running straight at the seal.
 
Gotcha. Guess I'll pull the shaft and see if the yoke is wobbly.
 
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