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2insane’s Random 6.2/6.5 Diesel Projects

I was loosing sleep over the .008 thrust bearing clearances. You know that little voice in your head telling you something was wrong and then you are fighting your inner demons… Should I take it all back apart? Gawd that’s a lot of work… Even thought the book said it was still in spec and the machine shop guy of 30+ years of knowledge said to run it, it felt wrong to me. A low mile optimizer should have a tighter thrust clearance I kept telling myself!

So today, I took the crank out again and Uber cleaned the new bearings, crank journals, caps and webs using lint free rags. Installed the center bolts hand tight and set the thrust bearing with my rubber mallet and then did the torque sequence once again…

It was a success! I was able to get that .004 thrust clearance! It turns so good by hand! I am guessing a few hairs or lint got on the bearings causing the crank to be too tight and it caused the thrust clearances to be off.

Big sigh of relief! I can sleep now….

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Pistons with new rings are in. Also did a Gapless 2nd ring. It was not as hard as I thought it would be. Afterward, I took the pistons back out to verify the Gapless rings set good and installed the pistons again.

New lifters and oil pump as well. Timing chain on at TDC. Piston 1 verified at the top. Timing cover and oil pan cleaned up. Waiting for gaskets to be shipped now.

Heads and studs hopefully tomorrow. Customer changed his mind on the tty head bolts. He might want to upgrade the GM 8 down the road.

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My stinkin front cover started leaking coolant again. I really don't want to tear into it. Might have to dig out my '92 6.5L that has been sitting outside for the better part of the last 16 yrs. Pretty sure it had coolant in the oil when I bought it.
 
My stinkin front cover started leaking coolant again. I really don't want to tear into it. Might have to dig out my '92 6.5L that has been sitting outside for the better part of the last 16 yrs. Pretty sure it had coolant in the oil when I bought it.

The right stuff, new gaskets and thread sealer on the bolts that go through the water jacket would help for sure! Give the right stuff a few days to cure before pouring in coolant.
 
Pistons with new rings are in. Also did a Gapless 2nd ring. It was not as hard as I thought it would be. Afterward, I took the pistons back out to verify the Gapless rings set good and installed the pistons again.

New lifters and oil pump as well. Timing chain on at TDC. Piston 1 verified at the top. Timing cover and oil pan cleaned up. Waiting for gaskets to be shipped now.

Heads and studs hopefully tomorrow. Customer changed his mind on the tty head bolts. He might want to upgrade the GM 8 down the road.

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That is what I regret now.
TTY head bolts have failed me a couple of times already.
They haven't failed yet on this last attempt because I haven't been able to drive it much because of a failed starter bolt.
If it fails, I am putting a body lift and then changing the gasket and putting ARP studs
 
That is what I regret now.
TTY head bolts have failed me a couple of times already.
They haven't failed yet on this last attempt because I haven't been able to drive it much because of a failed starter bolt.
If it fails, I am putting a body lift and then changing the gasket and putting ARP studs

This motor will be my 3rd head stud install. The first attempt failed on one motor because the ARP thread sealer disintegrated from the green corrosive coolant. (See Pictures) The second attempt I used Optimum Black RTV to seal the threads. Not sure if it worked because I sold that motor without running it. I am assuming it did because I never got a call back. lol!

This third install, I plan on using red dex cool radiator fluid, which is less corrosive than the green radiator fluid. I also plan on using a members special thread locker mixture to see how it does. He said that his mixture is working really well and I think that it is worth giving it a shot.

Hopefully this weekend I can spend some more time working on the customers motor. Keep yal posted.

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Those pictures are why I went TTY on my last 2 6.2/6.5 builds. The thought of that happening in the middle of nowhere on a cold dark rainy night just out of cell range. Please report how the special mixture works and what it is down the road.
 
Those pictures are why I went TTY on my last 2 6.2/6.5 builds. The thought of that happening in the middle of nowhere on a cold dark rainy night just out of cell range. Please report how the special mixture works and what it is down the road.

Yeah, there is definitely a lot of risk for sure. I calculate about a 50% success rate. I do however plan on having the customer sign a waiver, releasing me of liability on the head stud install. He is willing to take the risk for more power.
 
This motor will be my 3rd head stud install. The first attempt failed on one motor because the ARP thread sealer disintegrated from the green corrosive coolant. (See Pictures) The second attempt I used Optimum Black RTV to seal the threads. Not sure if it worked because I sold that motor without running it. I am assuming it did because I never got a call back. lol!

This third install, I plan on using red dex cool radiator fluid, which is less corrosive than the green radiator fluid. I also plan on using a members special thread locker mixture to see how it does. He said that his mixture is working really well and I think that it is worth giving it a shot.

Hopefully this weekend I can spend some more time working on the customers motor. Keep yal posted.

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I use dexcool
 
I’ve never switched from dex cool… why does everyone hate and get rid of it? Dont mix it with anything else and it has been fine for me in all my Gm diesels since 2002 that I have owned them.
 
Today on my day off, I had 3 service calls, sold the Redblock with a bunch of parts making $1000, installed the head studs on bank 2 and the head after measuring piston to deck protrusion and valve recession. Specs looked good for a .010 thicker head gasket.

Hyjacked CK5 member AgDieseler thread sealer mixture of Permatex 80632 and Loctite 243 making a “Smurf Blue” color to seal the threads on the studs. He said it has worked well for him since his Optimizer build.

I did try the copper gasket spray but for some reason it did not take well to the gasket. I am guessing it was a bad mixture so I am not going to use it on this build. I ordered another head gasket and will do bank 1 next weekend hopefully.

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I knew a really good old Cat mechanic that swore by coating head gaskets with copper spray-a-gasket on all his builds.
 
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