3/4 ton axles and breakage.

[CyberSniper]

I never broke with my 10 blt/12 bolt, 40s, and a TBI 305/465/208.

I broke a couple shafts with my 10 bolt/10 bolt, 33s, and carbureted 305/700R4/208.

I guess it depends is "the answer".

A 14FF is not worth having the land anchor unless you're running 40s. It's a waste of a D60 if you're not running at least 40s.

 

[jekbrown]

It's a waste of a D60 if you're not running at least 40s.

but dont rock comp guys bust super bling 300m 60 parts with tires under 40" tall (not to mention MUCH lighter rigs!) ???

j

 

[mechted]

I'm such a noobie... All of this stuff is like Chinese to me... is there a website with a picture of each of those parts you are refering to? I would really like to be able to change out axleshafts, but I haven't a clue about the internals of an axle..

Actually, this site has that too... its called the tech section
this article doesnt exactly specify changing an axle shaft, but it literally is tear it all down, then pull straight back and the shaft will slide right out

http://coloradok5.com/8lugconversion.shtml

 

[Jagged]

I believe they were call Warn Hub Fuses.

!!!! That's it

 

[CyberSniper]

but dont rock comp guys bust super bling 300m 60 parts with tires under 40" tall (not to mention MUCH lighter rigs!) ???

j

Most of them drive like quadriplegics on meth.

There are a ton of guys run 40s on half ton stuff in single seater comp buggies that don't break. I know one guy that has an LS1 in his and still doesn't break stuff.

I think you guys just need to go on a diet or something. Gone are the days of building battery trays out of 1/2" plate.

 

[guido666]

Gone are the days of building battery trays out of 1/2" plate.

When did they stop using the 3/4" plate?

I'm going to wait and see. I wouldn't consider myself crazy with the skinny pedal, but I want my truck to hold up so I don't have to spend years and daughters on the side of the trail fixing shafts (luckily 10b shafts are cheap and easy to get). I'm going to give my 10b a whirl, but am tentatively planning to upgrade to a D60 next year if I break too much stuff. Thanks for the advice.

 

[lrazer]

You've had problems with it locked?

no i was sayin that the 10b seems to hold up better (bigger tires/more abuse) with an open diff, that they seem to be more probe to breakage with a locker

 

[Jagged]

I'm going to give my 10b a whirl, but am tentatively planning to upgrade to a D60 next year if I break too much stuff. Thanks for the advice.

Terrorist! You hijacked my thread

It's all good. Good info here guys

 

[guido666]

Terrorist! You hijacked my thread

It's all good. Good info here guys

Yeah, I did, sorry. I try really hard not to do that too.

 

[CyberSniper]

When did they stop using the 3/4" plate?

I'm going to wait and see. I wouldn't consider myself crazy with the skinny pedal, but I want my truck to hold up so I don't have to spend years and daughters on the side of the trail fixing shafts (luckily 10b shafts are cheap and easy to get). I'm going to give my 10b a whirl, but am tentatively planning to upgrade to a D60 next year if I break too much stuff. Thanks for the advice.

I ran 1/2 tons for a "season" which was roughly 450 miles. I have about $1100 into them and that's a lot of being in the right place at the right time with cash in hand buying stuff. Completely rebuilt, welded rear, Lockright front, all new brakes including rear disc, new balljoints, crossover, et cetera. That's not regearing. That's a lot of money in half ton stuff. A 60 doesn't really depreciate like half ton stuff.

I mainly did it to prove a point... and I figured worst case I'd run the axles in my blue pickup (it'd be cool to have crossover on a DD, wouldn't it?). I ran them with the caps welded to the shafts and "gave 'er the berries". Ruined some other stuff but never broke a shaft/joint. But my stuff doesn't weigh much. I think expecting a 1/2-3/4 ton front axle to survive with anything more than 2,000lbs sitting on it is impossible. Once you get to around 2500lbs on that front axle you should expect to break. I think I got away with it because I had a hair under 1400lbs on the front axle.

If you don't mind waiting and saving... save for a 60 if you have a need for a 60. If you have cash-in-hand you can quite often get them for a reasonable price. It takes longer but you'll thank yourself later. The important part is knowing whether you need a 60 or not.

 

[lrazer]

Originally Posted by CyberSniper
A 14FF is not worth having the land anchor unless you're running 40s.

when your 10b can't hold up to 35's i think its well worth the 14bff to not have to baby the thing to keep from limpin home with a broken or damaged 10b

 

[k5freak44]

IMO if you are doing trails and mud, no rocks or stuff that extreme, you will be fne with 3/4 ton and a 36to 38 range tire.

 

[Jagged]

I guess this Spring I'll have a definite answer for everything

 

[lrazer]

Originally Posted by k5freak44
IMO if you are doing trails and mud, no rocks or stuff that extreme, you will be fne with 3/4 ton and a 36to 38 range tire.

i agree
as long as you know your limitations you should be alright

 

[78Suburban]

I think expecting a 1/2-3/4 ton front axle to survive with anything more than 2,000lbs sitting on it is impossible. Once you get to around 2500lbs on that front axle you should expect to break. I think I got away with it because I had a hair under 1400lbs on the front axle.

I'm kinda guessing my stock k20 burb weighs a bit more than that.... I'm planning on running some aggressive 33's (boggers or tsl's) ... am I asking for disaster? I don't have a front winch. its has a sbc, AC, front battery, and stock bumper....

I want to be able to do mostly mud and trails, but I don't want to even worry about lite throttle... I wanna be able to drive like a maniac.... I guess I'm asking for trouble if I don't drop some weight

 

[CyberSniper]

when your 10b can't hold up to 35's i think its well worth the 14bff to not have to baby the thing to keep from limpin home with a broken or damaged 10b

What did you manage to break in it? I have a LockRight in my daily driver (the one in this month's Rigs calendar ). I have managed to bend and break springs but nothing else.

With 35s and a 14 bolt... you'll never break anything but your pride because you've got as much clearance as a 10 bolt and weenie tires always holding you back.

I'm kinda guessing my stock k20 burb weighs a bit more than that.... I'm planning on running some aggressive 33's (boggers or tsl's) ... am I asking for disaster? I don't have a front winch. its has a sbc, AC, front battery, and stock bumper....

I want to be able to do mostly mud and trails, but I don't want to even worry about lite throttle... I wanna be able to drive like a maniac.... I guess I'm asking for trouble if I don't drop some weight

I ran 33" TSLs on my blue pickup. I managed to break shafts/pins in the locker twice working it hard in a mud hole with lots of traction. One time it appears either the joint went, the cap walked out, or the ear stretched to cause the failure. The other time it appears that there was a shaft imperfection that caused it to break in the middle of the shaft.

I think you'll be alright if you don't do any backing up hills or bouncing the front end... if you weld the caps to the shaft.

 

[guido666]

... if you weld the caps to the shaft.

So are you saying to tack weld (or really weld?) the u-joint caps to the yoke on the axle shaft? I'm new to all this and haven't really had this trick explained. Why do you do this?

 

[bigjbear]

Just tack them at 4 spots. Alot of people also have good luck switching to full circle snap rings. There used to be a write-up on here in "Tech", but basicly grind a little and they fit. Just remember to the snap ring in place before you assemble. However, if the ears are streached-even a little-tack welding is the only thing that will work. I've only ever broken one shaft in my front 10B with 35 and that was with a 20 yr old u-joint.

 

[guido666]

Just tack them at 4 spots. Alot of people also have good luck switching to full circle snap rings.

What does this prevent exactly? I looked for the article, any help finding it?

 

[Chaddy]

when your axles are under so much stress the caps tend to creep out of the ears on the shaft's so tack welding 4 point's around the cap to the shaft will help prevent it, although ive seen many times the tack's break and the caps slide anyway. What most people do when they start having that problem is to buy CTM's, they are lot's of $$ but you only have to buy them once......but you know how it is when your rig get's jealous part's, replace one thing and the part next to it get's jealous and want's to be upgraded to so it die's, so if you get ctm's....shafts or hubs are next.