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3/4 ton axles and breakage.

Originally Posted by CyberSniper
What did you manage to break in it? I have a LockRight in my daily driver (the one in this month's Rigs calendar ). I have managed to bend and break springs but nothing else.

With 35s and a 14 bolt... you'll never break anything but your pride because you've got as much clearance as a 10 bolt and weenie tires always holding you back.
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It was actually the LockRight that broke ground off the teeth, well actually more like round them off they wern't ground down all the way, they were able to hold about enough force to idle around. when it happened i had made a turn let it straighten out and the lockright lock back up was at about a 15-20mph roll and then gased it and bang/lots of grindin noise

the 35's are street tires and they were on when it happened, the 14b may have less clearance with the 35's but that doesn't make much difference on the road and the detroit in the 14 is so much smoother than the lockright and the 14b was cheaper than buyin a full carrier locker for the 10b plus disc brakes are cheaper

im not saying you need a 10b for 35's on the trail but the 14 is much more durable the 10b worker fine for awhile but with it being a daily driver as well the 10b just couldn't hold up in the long run

basically the only downside to the 14b is the clearance and i haven't had a problem with it yet
 
guido666 said:
What does this prevent exactly? I looked for the article, any help finding it?
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It HELPS keep the caps in place. The article was from a long time ago and not 100% sure it was on ck5, but I think it was. ORD has a little thing on their site because the Warn shafts are are designed to use the full circle style. Scroll down and look at the pic and it should make sense. If you want to do it on a stock shaft you just need to clearance them. http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/cmfrontaxleshafts.htm
 
CyberSniper said:
With 35s and a 14 bolt... you'll never break anything but your pride because you've got as much clearance as a 10 bolt and weenie tires always holding you back.
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I'd rather be hung up than broken. At least when you free yourself, you can drive home. :rolleyes: :D

My 12 bolt grenaded on me when I was driving 40mph down a city street. I ended up replacing the limited-slip and gears (this was long before I was enlightened by the infinate knowlege of CK5) to the tune of $750 :doah: . In hindsight, I wish I would have just gone with a 14BFF. I have about the same $$ in the 14BFF and I don't ever have to worry about it breaking......ever! :D

I've wheeled numerous times with 35's and a 14BFF and haven't been hung up on the diff yet. I agree that the ground clearance is much less, I'd rather not break. :D
 
Beast388 said:
My 12 bolt grenaded on me ...
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When people talk about "grenaded" what exactly do they mean? I imagine the carrier under so much stress it shatters and throws pieces out through the diff cover. Like when you throw a piston through the block. I just hear that phrase a lot and wonder what kind of damage people are actually talking about.
 
If what you guys are breaking on a rear axle is a Gov-Lock carrier that isn't breaking. That's a side-effect of having a Gov-Lock. Real breaking on a rear axle is ring and pinion and shafts. I don't think anyone here has ever broken an open carrier in a 1/2 ton axle. Spiders yes, carriers no.

The whole idea of breaking a 1/2 ton rear axle before a 1/2 ton front axle baffles me. Full throttle assaults bouncing up and down in low range I can see it breaking... but that probably means you have an open front end that isn't doing anything but looking pretty anyway.

One of the greatest assets I ever had was running shaved 1/2 ton axles... I didn't get hung up like everyone else so while they give 'er a generous dose of throttle I can just crawl through stuff... or back up and gently try again instead of just banging on it like everyone else. A 14FF hangs like 7" below the axle tube centerline. That is ridiculous.


You weld the caps in (usually four good tack welds then grind them smooth so they don't hit the balljoints/fit through the steering knuckle) so the cap doesn't get the opportunity to "walk" and spin inside of the yoke. If it is forced to stay in one position then usually the ears deform or the needle bearings break... which quickly cause the ears to deform. Someone that is good with a TIG welder could weld the caps all the way in without heating up the cap too much and taking the temper out of it.
 
guido666 said:
When people talk about "grenaded" what exactly do they mean? I imagine the carrier under so much stress it shatters and throws pieces out through the diff cover. Like when you throw a piston through the block. I just hear that phrase a lot and wonder what kind of damage people are actually talking about.
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In my case, the ring and pinion broke. The resulting chunks floating around in the diff broke more teeth and subsequently bent the mounting flange on the factory limited-slip (not a gov-loc)........and yes, the broken teeth punched holes in the stock cover. :eek1:
 
Beast388 said:
In my case, the ring and pinion broke. The resulting chunks floating around in the diff broke more teeth and subsequently bent the mounting flange on the factory limited-slip (not a gov-loc)........and yes, the broken teeth punched holes in the stock cover. :eek1:
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Thanks. Sounds like some cool breakage! :bow:
 
The 10B in my Yukon lost some ring gear teeth and I think that was from the carrier bearings failing. The side and spider gears were also damaged, but i think that was from metal floating around in there. The cover was dented from the inside out. It might have happened trying to pull about 10k on a trailer, but that is just a guess, since it was like that when I got it.
 
You can shave off a significant amount of the bottom of the 14bff pumpkin, correct?

With a dana 44 front axle, running an open carrier would be less likely to break axles than a locked one?
 
If you dont lock the front you will be fine. Shaving the 14B gives you about the same clearance as a 60.
 
Chaddy said:
If you dont lock the front you will be fine. Shaving the 14B gives you about the same clearance as a 60.
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Either that's the funniest looking 60 I've ever seen or you're cutting and plating the 14FF.
 
CyberSniper said:
cutting and plating the 14FF.
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That's what I meant by 'shaving'... lop off that big bottom section and weld up some plate.
 
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