chevy wrangler
1/2 ton status
hey i have some of those there still clean i never wore it.
so hows it going???
so hows it going???
CK5
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3/4 Ton Swap is DONE: **d-shaft question**
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
hunterguy86
1/2 ton status
Hows the swap coming dood?
NEK5
3/4 ton status
Well, hopefully all is good....
hopefull he didnt get pinned between the truck and the driveway
NEK5
3/4 ton status
well, that could explain why he hasn`t checked backmuddybuddy said:
I'm back! Ok, I'm working on getting some pictures up...
I didn't get as far as I hoped but I ran into some problems along the way...THE PREVIOUS OWNER was an idiot...bolts are different sizes...some metric just for kicks apparently. Also the weird way he ran the E-brake cost me a good hour of time to get it out...I finally said fock it and got the grinder and a cut off wheel...anyways the point is I got it out...lol
So the brakes are dissconnected, the E-Brakes are dissconnected, the vent tube is off, the axle is out (u-bolts took FOREVER)...So all said and done I got the rear end completely out and got the 14ff prepped and ready to go in.
I took the cover off and cleaned it out and inspected everything...then I started filling...it took two gallons of fluid before it was full (and I was out)...it took the first gallon then it started to move around and settle...I spun the ring gear and added more...it took the entire second gallon!
The passenger side drum is still stuck on the 14ff but a couple people told me to just get it in there and when I give it some throttle it'll unstick itself...then the first couple times I tap the brakes it'll work out some problems....then I can go from there...
So for now it's looking like I'll only be able to get half way done (depending on how tomorrow goes...I have all day since I took the day off of work) but the current plan is in the morning I'm going to go to the hardware store and get a new bolt and nut to replace the broken one that is supposed to be holding the driver's side spring pack together...apparently the PO didn't think it was that important...then I'm taking two of the tires (I know...ghetto but it'll work) over to have them swapped over on my new 8 lug steelies...so at least I can get the entire rear end done and make the truck drivable for now...finally I hope to get the 1 ton master cylinder put in and then teach myself how to bleed the entire system...
SO....if all goes well I'll have the 14ff put in, have the 1 ton MC installed and get the rear tires swapped over and put back on the truck.
If I get that done I'll be happy.
Ok, onto the pics!
Oh and BTW I don't have my big compressor yet so the entire night was done with a toolbox of sockets, drivers, wrenches and the power of my arms! lol...my dad helped me out tonight too...so props to him and his huge biceps!
-Avery
I didn't get as far as I hoped but I ran into some problems along the way...THE PREVIOUS OWNER was an idiot...bolts are different sizes...some metric just for kicks apparently. Also the weird way he ran the E-brake cost me a good hour of time to get it out...I finally said fock it and got the grinder and a cut off wheel...anyways the point is I got it out...lol
So the brakes are dissconnected, the E-Brakes are dissconnected, the vent tube is off, the axle is out (u-bolts took FOREVER)...So all said and done I got the rear end completely out and got the 14ff prepped and ready to go in.
I took the cover off and cleaned it out and inspected everything...then I started filling...it took two gallons of fluid before it was full (and I was out)...it took the first gallon then it started to move around and settle...I spun the ring gear and added more...it took the entire second gallon!
The passenger side drum is still stuck on the 14ff but a couple people told me to just get it in there and when I give it some throttle it'll unstick itself...then the first couple times I tap the brakes it'll work out some problems....then I can go from there...
So for now it's looking like I'll only be able to get half way done (depending on how tomorrow goes...I have all day since I took the day off of work) but the current plan is in the morning I'm going to go to the hardware store and get a new bolt and nut to replace the broken one that is supposed to be holding the driver's side spring pack together...apparently the PO didn't think it was that important...then I'm taking two of the tires (I know...ghetto but it'll work) over to have them swapped over on my new 8 lug steelies...so at least I can get the entire rear end done and make the truck drivable for now...finally I hope to get the 1 ton master cylinder put in and then teach myself how to bleed the entire system...
SO....if all goes well I'll have the 14ff put in, have the 1 ton MC installed and get the rear tires swapped over and put back on the truck.
If I get that done I'll be happy.
Ok, onto the pics!
Oh and BTW I don't have my big compressor yet so the entire night was done with a toolbox of sockets, drivers, wrenches and the power of my arms! lol...my dad helped me out tonight too...so props to him and his huge biceps!
-Avery
the 14b in? i dont have air tools, ive done all the work on my truck the old fashioned way
No it's not in...I posted those and got cleaned up...it's late and getting very cold outside...tomorrow we aren't even supposed to get out of the 40's...
Uncle Fester
1/2 ton status
Lets see,
1/2 a day to get the old rear out, new one SHOULD go in faster, then on to the front axle, should go faster as it has no e-brake to mess with, so a total of 2 maybe 2.5 days to do the swap.
No that you have put this much work into it....may I make a suggestion to you?
KEEP IT DANG IT ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
you know what is in these axles, and what has been done to the truck, as well as what it needs, just keep it!
1/2 a day to get the old rear out, new one SHOULD go in faster, then on to the front axle, should go faster as it has no e-brake to mess with, so a total of 2 maybe 2.5 days to do the swap.
No that you have put this much work into it....may I make a suggestion to you?
KEEP IT DANG IT ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
you know what is in these axles, and what has been done to the truck, as well as what it needs, just keep it!
*yawn*...I just woke up...I'm going to head back out there...nice thing now is that I have some real light to work with...last night I had to move the light around about 4 billion times so I could see...
Actually first I'm going to go get two of those tires swapped over onto the new rims just in case I don't get the front done for some reason...then onto the Master cylinder.
Actually first I'm going to go get two of those tires swapped over onto the new rims just in case I don't get the front done for some reason...then onto the Master cylinder.
Making good progress, hope you plan on keeping it now.
just wondering, it might have been covered, but why are u swaping the master cylinder?
smokkey1
1/2 ton status
2 gallons? a 14ff only needs 1 gallon....
smokkey1 said:
I thought it was a bit much... My 10bolt only takes a little under 3 quarts.
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Supposedly the 1/2 ton MC can't put out enough volume to fill the cylinders so the brakes work but they feel soft.
As far as the fluid goes...I don't know...it took two full gallons. But keep in mind how I filled mine...it was out and the lip was parallel to the ground so I could literally just pour it in and let it seep through the tubes to get the bearings in the ends.
Ok guys I came in for lunch but I'm going back out.
I am anticipating a bump in the road so I'll ask now then come back when I have the rear end all tightened up and hopefully someone will know...
What would the process be as far as brakes go if I just want to try my current master cylinder? After I get all the lines hooked up can I just pump the brakes and get the air out of the lines...then bolt them back on and it'll be good to go or is there more to it?
-Avery
leave the cap off pump the brakes a couple times then start w/ the wheel furthest from the mc and open the bleeder screw till it streams out. add fluid if need to the m/c and pump up brakes again and go to the wheel 2nd furthest. and so on and so on. i was wondering why u were swaping m/c b/c then u would have to bench bleed it and i doubt u have the proper tools for that.
bench bleed? what the heck is that and why would you have to?
I figured I could just bolt it up, fill it up with fluid and then bleed the lines...
I figured I could just bolt it up, fill it up with fluid and then bleed the lines...
before u install a master cylinder u have to bench bleed it. http://www.superchevy.com/technical/chassis/brakes/0509sc_bench/
here this will give u an idea. did u take any automotive courses in highschool? they dont teach u much but basic principles ( i had a shyty shop teacher).
here this will give u an idea. did u take any automotive courses in highschool? they dont teach u much but basic principles ( i had a shyty shop teacher).
beater_k20
Banned
Avery4jc said:
if you bought a master cylinder, believe it or not, that piece of paper in the box is not just box filler. READ IT.
it'll tell you everything you need to know.
any progress??
