NEK5
3/4 ton status
HIGHJACK ON- I`ll be swapping a 14bff in the rear of my 1/2 ton Blazer, will I need to swap MCs, or will the 1/2 work? - HIGHJACK OFF
CK5
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3/4 Ton Swap is DONE: **d-shaft question**
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
hunterguy86
1/2 ton status
BIGBLAZE433 said:
I did that exact swap and kept the stock master cylinder. No issues here.
NEK5
3/4 ton status
Cool...Now what if I were to go discs?hunterguy86 said:
hunterguy86
1/2 ton status
BIGBLAZE433 said:
Cant help ya there. I kept the drums
you should still be alright with disc, the big problem is when you go to disc in the rear and you got mega huge d60 calipers up front that the stock one is chit.
BigEasy
1/2 ton status
Avery4jc said:
Hmmm.... if I'm understanding what you said, you positioned the yoke pointing straight at the ground and you poured the oil in where the diff cover is usually bolted on? If that the case, you overfilled it. You need to install the whole rearend, then take out the upper most plug on the differential & fill it up until oil starts to run out of the plug hole. Put the plug back in and you're good. Glad to see I wasn't the only one that thought "2 gallons?????"
And count your blessings nothing ever happened with those springs missing the centering pin...
Just for grins, what are your plans with those 6 bolt wheels? I have a friend that is looking for a set like that & I'm not too far up the road from you.
Beater: I got it with the axles...not from the parts store smart ass 
In regards to hunterguy, bigblazer and muddybuddy I'll be keeping my stock MC for now...especially since I didn't have time to swap the front axle in yet.
BigEasy: How do you "overfill" this axle? Everywhere I've read said try to get as much fluid in there as possible...plus when you turn it upright it still has some air in there...the entire volume of the diff cover.
I'm selling everything...someone at my church has asked about the axles so he gets those but the rims are going up for sale.
Ok, onto the pics...
Painting the driveshaft for Beater...no more candycane...(but I'm putting it back on later, lol)
Next I got my tires swapped over (just the rears) onto the new 8 lug black steelies...I think they look 1000x better than the stupid chrome ones that where on the truck...
and here's a pic of that spring pack that fell apart on me while I took stuff apart last night...but I fixed it...
The proportioning valve (I think thats what it is) that was on the 14ff had some weird rubber line coming off of it where as my truck is setup for a stainless steel line that threads in...I couldn't get the rubber one off so I stole the complete setup off of my 10b (I checked and they are the same size holes so they'll flow the same) and put it on the 14ff, lol
Alright onto the good stuff...here's pics of me taking an hour and a half to get the stupid thing all aligned after I got the brake lines squared away...
and yeah, I dented and scratched my bed in the process...
and right after I took that pic I went to align it some more and it fell off...yeah OFF. So I had to start the process all over again...grrr
In regards to hunterguy, bigblazer and muddybuddy I'll be keeping my stock MC for now...especially since I didn't have time to swap the front axle in yet.
BigEasy: How do you "overfill" this axle? Everywhere I've read said try to get as much fluid in there as possible...plus when you turn it upright it still has some air in there...the entire volume of the diff cover.
I'm selling everything...someone at my church has asked about the axles so he gets those but the rims are going up for sale.
Ok, onto the pics...
Painting the driveshaft for Beater...no more candycane...(but I'm putting it back on later, lol)
Next I got my tires swapped over (just the rears) onto the new 8 lug black steelies...I think they look 1000x better than the stupid chrome ones that where on the truck...
and here's a pic of that spring pack that fell apart on me while I took stuff apart last night...but I fixed it...
The proportioning valve (I think thats what it is) that was on the 14ff had some weird rubber line coming off of it where as my truck is setup for a stainless steel line that threads in...I couldn't get the rubber one off so I stole the complete setup off of my 10b (I checked and they are the same size holes so they'll flow the same) and put it on the 14ff, lol
Alright onto the good stuff...here's pics of me taking an hour and a half to get the stupid thing all aligned after I got the brake lines squared away...
and yeah, I dented and scratched my bed in the process...
and right after I took that pic I went to align it some more and it fell off...yeah OFF. So I had to start the process all over again...grrr
I measured and cut my new u-bolts because I am doing this all by hand and would still be out there tightening the nuts down because the new u-bolts were sooooo long....but they sure do look good...actually it all does...it's nice knowing that stuff is done right, all aligned and setup perfectly!
Finally I attached the brake line back to the proportioning valve (if that's what that thingy was), hooked the vent tube back in it's spot and checked it all over...
TA DA! BEEF!
It just looks like it means business...
So there you have it...I still need to bleed the brakes and get the driveshaft taken care of...plus the passenger side drum is still stuck but everyone keeps saying that it's just surface rust and it'll break free...It looks kind of cool with the rake...now a total of 10" of lift in the back and 9" in the front.
Ok, I'm tired...off to finally get a shower!
Finally I attached the brake line back to the proportioning valve (if that's what that thingy was), hooked the vent tube back in it's spot and checked it all over...
TA DA! BEEF!
It just looks like it means business...
So there you have it...I still need to bleed the brakes and get the driveshaft taken care of...plus the passenger side drum is still stuck but everyone keeps saying that it's just surface rust and it'll break free...It looks kind of cool with the rake...now a total of 10" of lift in the back and 9" in the front.
Ok, I'm tired...off to finally get a shower!
beater_k20
Banned
you're doin an awful lot of stuff for me there. why dont you go ahead a throw a 454/400/205 in it, and i'll come pick it up when its done. 
better yet, just put the big block in it, i've got a 2wd TH400 here at the house. i'll add that, a divorced 205, and my HP and i'll be in business.
lookin good man, a little pushing, and you've actually got something accomplished. i'm sure you're gonna be very happy with it once its all done.
better yet, just put the big block in it, i've got a 2wd TH400 here at the house. i'll add that, a divorced 205, and my HP and i'll be in business.
lookin good man, a little pushing, and you've actually got something accomplished. i'm sure you're gonna be very happy with it once its all done.
chevy wrangler
1/2 ton status
so do 15" rims fit on 3/4 ton running gear???
beater_k20
Banned
with a grinder, 15s will fit on 1 tons... you do the math.
rofl...you spoiled the surprise...who told?beater_k20 said:you're doin an awful lot of stuff for me there. why dont you go ahead a throw a 454/400/205 in it, and i'll come pick it up when its done.
better yet, just put the big block in it, i've got a 2wd TH400 here at the house. i'll add that, a divorced 205, and my HP and i'll be in business.
lookin good man, a little pushing, and you've actually got something accomplished. i'm sure you're gonna be very happy with it once its all done.
I've got this sitting in the garage all ready to go in...
A blown 540cid on alcohol, lol I wonder if I can get it to pass Smog Nazi cali laws?
Oh, chevywrangler...yeah they fit depending on the back spacing of the rim...they slide right over the drums on the 14ff but the front discs need some grinding...d44/10b require some grinding, d60's require more but it all depends on the back spacing...more back spacing equals more grinding because more of the rim is having to slide over the brakes...
BigEasy
1/2 ton status
MAN, you SURE are not gonna like me..... I REALLY hate to say this, but that carriage bolt you used on your spring pack is an accident waiting to happen!!! You either need a grade 8 bolt with the head rounded off on a grinder, or replacement spring pack center bolt (available at NAPA). That carriage bolt head could slip out of the spring perch the first time you romp on the throttle, plus most carriage bolts are only grade 2 or 5. 
why is it that big of a deal? My driver's side never had one and my passenger side was broke in two pieces and I never had any problems...
I mean I see how they could slip out but still...with the u-bolts cranked down I don't see how it's a big deal...
I mean I see how they could slip out but still...with the u-bolts cranked down I don't see how it's a big deal...
beater_k20
Banned
Avery4jc said:rofl...you spoiled the surprise...who told?
I've got this sitting in the garage all ready to go in...
A blown 540cid on alcohol, lol I wonder if I can get it to pass Smog Nazi cali laws?
hmmm... looks like it was destined for me...
BigEasy
1/2 ton status
Avery4jc said:
Um, yeah, well... How should I put this? Ok, here's a question: Do you feel safe driving a truck that's 12"+ over stock height knowing that your axle and springs are not securely mounted to each other? Another: If springs pack center bolts aren't that big of a deal, why does every vehicle that has leaf springs use them? And one last question: Can you sleep good at night knowing that you put all this work into your axle swap, but yet you know there's this one tiny little thing wrong and you don't want to take the time to fix it? I know it sucks, but it's not that big of a job to drop that side of the axle, clamp the spring pack & replace the bolt. Do it, trust me you'll feel better knowing it's done RIGHT! Besides, you can see in the picture how much farther the center bolt protrudes into the spring perch compared to the carriage bolt...
EDIT- looking back at the pics, it also looks like you bolted the shim on upside down.
beater_k20
Banned
BigEasy is right Avery, you need to pull it back apart and replace it with the proper spring pin. this pin is critical in not only holding your leaf springs together when the axle and spring plate are not there, but also in locating the axle on the spring. without the pin properly engaged in the notch in the axle, the axle could move forward and back on the spring. while driving down the road, this would create a 4 wheel steer effect, with one major flaw... you have no way of controlling it. VERY dangerous scenario. 
ur "proportioning valve" is really not a proportioning valve, its a splitter for the rear brake lines. a proportioning valve controls the front and rear bias, how much braking force is sent to the front and rear wheels. just a lil FYI for you. but hey the rears in now get on w/ the front.
Ok guys I get the point about that pin...
iwaxmyjimmy: Thanks...I was hoping someone would correct me on what that thing's name is. So is the proportioning valve right after the master cylinder somewhere on the firewall or where is it?
lol, yeah I'll get onto the front but not for a little while...I need to get this rear done completely...I'm going to ask my buddy (the one with the bronco...I've talked about him before) to come over and help me and we'll knock it out in one day since he knows what he's doing and I can turn a wrench. This two day 15+ hours a day to just get the rear end in wasn't exactly my idea of a good time.
iwaxmyjimmy: Thanks...I was hoping someone would correct me on what that thing's name is. So is the proportioning valve right after the master cylinder somewhere on the firewall or where is it?
lol, yeah I'll get onto the front but not for a little while...I need to get this rear done completely...I'm going to ask my buddy (the one with the bronco...I've talked about him before) to come over and help me and we'll knock it out in one day since he knows what he's doing and I can turn a wrench. This two day 15+ hours a day to just get the rear end in wasn't exactly my idea of a good time.
