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3/4 Ton Swap is DONE: **d-shaft question**

Avery4jc said:
go take a match to some of that foam and see what happens...
Oh and whats up w/ the contraption? I just take the snap rings out, put a big socket in one side and a smaller one in the other then crush that baby in the vise....it pops them out super easy.


*cough* pansy *cough*

:rolleyes:

now that's funny right there, i dont care who ya are. :haha: :haha: :haha:
 
in his defense, he later came clean...

Avery4jc said:
lol, I was joking...I thought you all knew my truck well enough to know that.
I actually had no clue what it was, hard to sense sarcasm across the keys...

-Avery

still funny though. :D
 
Ta Da! It's moving under it's own power!

I just took it for a spin around the block before I came back to tighten it all back up again and check it all over...
My gosh this made a night and day difference...it actually feels like the truck has some power now!
Oh and the brakes are insane! The stuck drum that I couldn't ever get to budge let go when I started to pull out of the driveway and I heard it for about 50 feet then it let go...so it's not even hung up...it just let loose. They aren't too touchy but if you get into them it brings that little 1/2 ton truck to a halt in a hurry...
Oh and btw I got the driveshaft taken care of all by myself...got the old one out, put the new conversion joint in and even had time to paint the candy cane back on it :)
phew...this is going to be nice...


 
hahaha you and that damned driveshaft! :haha:

now you're probably itchin to do the front so you can pull the lever, eh? :thinking:
 
Did you replace those centering pins? A buddy of mine did a 3/4 swap on his old 1/2 ton as well, and didn't put proper centering pins back in. His diff shifted and nearly caused him to have a big accident, it won't take long to undo the u-bolts on only one side with the floor jack under the tube, just lower the floor jack, change the centering pin out, then bolt the diff back up, repeat for the other side.

And yes, it takes time to do these diff swaps the first time around, but after a while, you get to the point whereas if you've got all the parts, you can be done in a few hours, lol
 
well it shouldn't take too long to do the front because I won that compressor off of e-bay and he is delivering it tomorrow...so now I have to make room in the garage for an 80 gallon compressor :)
Ok, I'm going to get the centering pin taken care of but honestly how is it that bad?
The bottom two springs that aren't attached in the pack couldn't move side to side because the u-bolts are right there so the only way they could get out is if they came out the front and followed the curve of the springs above them...and this is all if for some reason it all magically came loose and the truck's weight wasn't on them...
Plus how is the axle going to shift if the spring perches are there? The u-bolts would have to come waaaaay off for that to happen.
I guess I just don't see how it's that big a deal since I didn't have them in there before and I NEVER had any problems.

-Avery
 
Did you ever drain any of that fluid out of the diff? look on the passenger side of the diff. There should be a plug there that you can insert a 3/8 socket wrench into and loosen up. The fluid level is not supporsed to be above that plug. There is supposed to air inside the diff, why else would there be a vent?
 
Chevy305 said:
Did you ever drain any of that fluid out of the diff? look on the passenger side of the diff. There should be a plug there that you can insert a 3/8 socket wrench into and loosen up. The fluid level is not supporsed to be above that plug. There is supposed to air inside the diff, why else would there be a vent?

The wheel bearings are also lubed by the diff fluid so overfilling is not detrimental to the rearend. If it aint comin out of the vent it aint gonna kill anything. I filled my dif the same way and have had zero issues with mine. I did however only get 1.5 gallons in mine:D.

Avery- The problem with your carriage bolts in your springs is not the leafs being held together, the problem is the axle being located on the spring and subsequently in the truck. The pins are designed to lock the spring to the axle and keep it from sliding forward and backwards on the spring. If one side shifts on you then it will cause the truck to turn without your input and you could end up killing someone or yourself. That sir is the problem.

Ira
 
sandawgk5 said:
The wheel bearings are also lubed by the diff fluid so overfilling is not detrimental to the rearend. If it aint comin out of the vent it aint gonna kill anything. I filled my dif the same way and have had zero issues with mine. I did however only get 1.5 gallons in mine:D.

Avery- The problem with your carriage bolts in your springs is not the leafs being held together, the problem is the axle being located on the spring and subsequently in the truck. The pins are designed to lock the spring to the axle and keep it from sliding forward and backwards on the spring. If one side shifts on you then it will cause the truck to turn without your input and you could end up killing someone or yourself. That sir is the problem.

Ira
Yea, you notice the hole in the center of the spring perch? That`s where that center pin goes. It has a big head on it so it drops into the hole, which in turn holds it in place...
 
yeah I know what it does, what can happen and how it goes together...trust me. Ok guys I promise ya'll that when I get my compressor tomorrow I'll get an impact gun and put the right pin in there...

On a happier note I took it for a good long drive tonight after tightening the nuts on the u-bolts down and wow this is a whole new truck. It finally shifted like it was supposed to (tranny still needs a rebuild but it'll live for now)...I was in 3rd and even in 4th on the freeway and was able to run about 80mph without breaking a sweat...I don't run more than 60 or so but that was WOT before...now the engine isn't lugging at all and it's smooth sailing the whole time...
 
more gear reduction, so that axle is probably going to "move around" alot more than the highway geared 10 bolt did too. that'll put that much more stress on the pin. good call on tearing it back down. :deal:
 
Avery4jc said:
yeah I know what it does, what can happen and how it goes together...trust me.

If that is the case why did you post this up?

Ok, I'm going to get the centering pin taken care of but honestly how is it that bad?
The bottom two springs that aren't attached in the pack couldn't move side to side because the u-bolts are right there so the only way they could get out is if they came out the front and followed the curve of the springs above them...and this is all if for some reason it all magically came loose and the truck's weight wasn't on them...
Plus how is the axle going to shift if the spring perches are there? The u-bolts would have to come waaaaay off for that to happen.
I guess I just don't see how it's that big a deal since I didn't have them in there before and I NEVER had any problems.

That is what my response was to. As Beater said good move to tear it back down:waytogo:. It should only take aboot 1 hour maybe less with your compressor.

Ira
 
beater_k20 said:
more gear reduction, so that axle is probably going to "move around" alot more than the highway geared 10 bolt did too. that'll put that much more stress on the pin. good call on tearing it back down. :deal:
that's a nice way of putting it...IMHO 3.08's in a 10b with 38.5/16-15 is asking for trouble...not "highway geared" lol
But live and learn.

Yeah I'll tear it down but not before I get some power...enough hand tightening and loosening stuff...I need to go get a deep 7/8" socket as well to do them.

Oh, and I posted that because I still don't see how it can move that much but I'm going to listen and take it apart and put it back "right". With the width of that spring pad I can't even imagine how it would move back and forth.....but w/e.
 
sorry bud...say a prayer or something because I don't have a choice...school starts monday...the guy is bringing the compressor tomorrow so maybe after church I can go get a deep 7/8" and borrow my buddies impact then head to Auto Zone or somewhere and get it taken care of...
Is that an Auto Zone type of part or what?
 
beater_k20 said:
no driving it around town until its done... that's a MAJOR safety issue.

Yep what he said. The pin is there for a reason if it was not possible the pin would not be there. I beatin a dead horse so I will stop. You know the right answer Avery. Keep up the good work and keep us posted.

Ira
 
:gasp: you may have to ride the bus. :eek: its time to quit being lazy, if you have to do it without the compressor, get it done! we're not screwing around with an improperly designed drivetrain anymore, the safety of others is at stake. how would you feel if it gave out on your way to school, the truck went out of control, and hit and killed your best friend? stranger things have happened. now you know what you've got to do, get to doin it. :deal:
 
beater_k20 said:
:gasp: you may have to ride the bus. :eek: its time to quit being lazy, if you have to do it without the compressor, get it done! we're not screwing around with an improperly designed drivetrain anymore, the safety of others is at stake. how would you feel if it gave out on your way to school, the truck went out of control, and hit and killed your best friend? stranger things have happened. now you know what you've got to do, get to doin it. :deal:

X2!!
 

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