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3 inch lift using 2inch suspension lift and easy inches

J

JFHblazer

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Texas
Purchased an 86 m1009 that has no mods and would like to start my resto on it by first lifting and extending a little.
Want to do the following: Lift 3 inches push axles back 1 to 1.5 inches and slap 35x 11.5 or 12.5' under it. I plan on cutting both front and rear to fit the tires. This is nit going to be an rock crawler so do need so crazy clearance.
Questions: Is 3 inches achievable using this method? Are there brackets I will need to move the sway bar forward?

Thanks
 
Solution
Wes Harden
Caster has a lot to do with return to center. Before you go after caster, check that ball joints/king pins move freely. If that are binding this stop return to center.
You want positive caster +6°ish.
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You will need to adjust the sway bar, or remove it. The drag link might need a little attention, might not get short enough.
Drive shafts will probably be to short.
Brake lines will need to be lengthened.
35's should do well, back spacing on wheels will be important
 
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Thank you very much. Looks like the drag link will adjust enough for me and I’m removing the sway bar (not taking corners fast). Is there no movement in the front drive shaft?
What about the rear, I assume the existing drive shaft will have to be removed and renewed with a longer one?
 
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well after slapping the 2 inch lift leaf springs and easy inch on the M1009 and leaving off the sway bar the front end has become way to bouncy and loose. Think I’m going to have to put the sway bar back on (with mods because of moving the axle forward) and hope that works.
Biggest questions, the front springs I removed were 3 inches wide and what I put on are 2.5 wide. Does anyone know if these m1009 actually need that heavy of a front spring package? Might have a death wobble starting at 50mph but I’ll review other blogs to try and fix. Hopping adding sway bar fixes most issues.
 
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2.5" wide springs are the norm for aftermarket lift springs. What brand did you go with?
Sound like you might have other front end issues. A sway bar won't fix worn front end components.
 
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Cheavyk10 said:
2.5" wide springs are the norm for aftermarket lift springs. What brand did you go with?
Sound like you might have other front end issues. A sway bar won't fix worn front end components.
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Went with ruff country. My worry right now is the bounce I’m getting. The slop I think will be helped by reapplying the sway bar (some how with mods) but you are probably right, need to look at the other parts.
 
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Rough country has some high spring rates, which means a stiff and bouncy ride.
FWIW I haven't run a sway bar in 20 years on my K10. 4" Tuff Country front springs and 37's. Alot of guys on here don't run them either.
 
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JFHblazer said:
Went with ruff country. My worry right now is the bounce I’m getting. The slop I think will be helped by reapplying the sway bar (some how with mods) but you are probably right, need to look at the other parts.
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Ruff Country is actually pretty stiff. What brand of shocks do you have, what condition are they in and how old are they?
If you press hard on one corner of the body does the truck bounce up and down repeatedly or stop fairly quickly?

EDIT: damn you @Cheavyk10, you’re just a little quicker than me at typing. :doah:
 
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Guys, screwed up. I bought tuff country not ruff. The shocks are sx800 and brand new. I’ll try the test when I get home. Thanks
 
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All the lift kit shocks are pretty much the same cheap twin tubes. They satisfy the need for damping, but don't really do anything well. You gain both ride comfort and stability by going to a better shock. Most recommended around here for mild use are the low-end Bilstein monotubes, like 4000- or 5000-series (just search any of the shock/lift threads. Don't tell us you haven't been using the search function...).

"Bouncy" and "loose" almost sound like opposites. Are you saying it bounces after hitting a bump or that it feels like it's all over the road?
 
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I prefer the Tuff country to Ruff country, I used the 2 Tuff country lift on my 1st suburban, I could drink coffee while driving. I liked it.

I have 4" Tuff country HD springs to replace the worn out unknown springs on the truck now. Still sitting on the floor of the garage so no compassion to talk about yet
 
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Blue85 said:
All the lift kit shocks are pretty much the same cheap twin tubes. They satisfy the need for damping, but don't really do anything well. You gain both ride comfort and stability by going to a better shock. Most recommended around here for mild use are the low-end Bilstein monotubes, like 4000- or 5000-series (just search any of the shock/lift threads. Don't tell us you haven't been using the search function...).

"Bouncy" and "loose" almost sound like opposites. Are you saying it bounces after hitting a bump or that it feels like it's all over the road?
Click to expand...
Thank you! It keeps bouncing after the bumps and the front end is loose. I’m 99% sure I need to reapply the sway bar but not sure how to fix the bounce. I’m wondering if those 3 inch wide front springs weren’t there for a good reason.!?!?!
 
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JFHblazer said:
Thank you! It keeps bouncing after the bumps and the front end is loose. I’m 99% sure I need to reapply the sway bar but not sure how to fix the bounce. I’m wondering if those 3 inch wide front springs weren’t there for a good reason.!?!?!
Click to expand...
The shocks are what keep it from bouncing.
Do you know the valving on your shocks?
And do you have any extra weight up front like a heavy duty bumper or winch?
 
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Have the tires been looked at? Are they old, flat spotted, separated, out of balance.

Is bouncy driving on good roads or only when you drive over a good hole or bump?
 
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The swaybar will not stop bouncing. It stops the body from leaning in corners. It can only stiffen the ride, not soften. Also, the factory sway bar doesn't fit with lift springs. You need adapter brackets or a set of swaybar disconnects. Search. It's been posted within the last week.
 
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