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3 inch lift using 2inch suspension lift and easy inches

J

JFHblazer

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Purchased an 86 m1009 that has no mods and would like to start my resto on it by first lifting and extending a little.
Want to do the following: Lift 3 inches push axles back 1 to 1.5 inches and slap 35x 11.5 or 12.5' under it. I plan on cutting both front and rear to fit the tires. This is nit going to be an rock crawler so do need so crazy clearance.
Questions: Is 3 inches achievable using this method? Are there brackets I will need to move the sway bar forward?

Thanks
 
Solution
Wes Harden
Caster has a lot to do with return to center. Before you go after caster, check that ball joints/king pins move freely. If that are binding this stop return to center.
You want positive caster +6°ish.
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I agree with Martin. I had 4" Tuff Country EZ ride on my m1008 and HATED them. Front weight has to be similar as M1009 with 6.2 and dual batteries.

If I were you I would upgrade to some real springs and go ORD. They will spec the springs to your M1009 weight. Will ride so much better and no more rough ride (bounce).
 
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JFHblazer said:
I think I might have determined my issue. This is a cucv m9001 mill spec diesel. It seems that they are heavier (curb weight) than you 86 diesel blazer (see photo). I purchased an easy ride suspension when I should have looked for something else. I read a bunch of data on other sites and many people thought the military just put wide (3 inch) springs that taper toward the center up front cause they wanted beefier ride. Well I should have compared curb weights. Now I have to find this heavier spring for a two inch lift. Tuff country said they don’t make it. Looks like I will have some springs for sale though! View attachment 400942
Click to expand...
So M1009 has lower wait rating than k20 burb and many of us are using like springs, plus added weight, ei bumpers winches batteries and such

burbgvwr.jpg
 
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what different about the trans ?? th400? lots of squares have th400 ?

the weight might be heavier than a K5, but not heavier than some k10's or any K20. the springs you have are and have been used on many k10 and k20, with excellent results.
You want new springs by all means get new springs.
We are trying to help you solve your problem, which is probably not your springs.

What about the tires ? how old are they, are they balanced, when was the last time they were balanced?

1 of the earlier post you questioned the shocks being correct for the added easy inch. Lift an additional inch and moving forward an inch would be a longer span. I suggest checking the extended length, to be sure the shocks are not limiting out. pull the shocks, and let the axle hang full droop measure the distance between the mounts, compare to fully extended shock.
 
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JFHblazer said:
The transmission is different along with the front leaf springs and curb weight.
Click to expand...
Your shock is your problem.
You are using a cheap shock from a kit for a 2" lift on a 3" effective lift, so you will have a bad result.
If you want a better ride with only a quick 15 minutes fix, call ORD or do your measurements and find the right bilstein 5000 series shock and you will not regret it.
I didn't believe it until I bought a truck that had one in it
 
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Wes Harden said:
what different about the trans ?? th400? lots of squares have th400 ?

the weight might be heavier than a K5, but not heavier than some k10's or any K20. the springs you have are and have been used on many k10 and k20, with excellent results.
You want new springs by all means get new springs.
We are trying to help you solve your problem, which is probably not your springs.

What about the tires ? how old are they, are they balanced, when was the last time they were balanced?

1 of the earlier post you questioned the shocks being correct for the added easy inch. Lift an additional inch and moving forward an inch would be a longer span. I suggest checking the extended length, to be sure the shocks are not limiting out. pull the shocks, and let the axle hang full droop measure the distance between the mounts, compare to fully extended shock.
Click to expand...
Thanks Wes. I’ll pull the shocks and do just that. The tires are new and balanced. I’ll apply new shocks and report back on the results.
 
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Well, the shocks were the trick. Thanks guys

The guys at Offroad Design were great. They also mentioned clambering 5 degrees is the beat for the k5. Was told ball joints had to be replaced to accomplish or rotate the axle back which means even more work. Any experience?
 
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JFHblazer said:
Well, the shocks were the trick. Thanks guys

The guys at Offroad Design were great. They also mentioned clambering 5 degrees is the beat for the k5. Was told ball joints had to be replaced to accomplish or rotate the axle back which means even more work. Any experience?
Click to expand...
Shocking!! Now only if someone would’ve mentioned this earlier. :whistle:

I think you mean camber. The only way easy way to adjust it is with a sleeve in the upper ball joint or a tapered shim behind the spindle. Neither of these is hard to do, just a little time consuming. Rotating the axle leads to other issues like affecting your caster.

Why are you concerned about adjusting your (fixed) camber now? Did you get an alignment? Post a pic of the results if you did.
 
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JFHblazer said:
Well, the shocks were the trick. Thanks guys

The guys at Offroad Design were great. They also mentioned clambering 5 degrees is the beat for the k5. Was told ball joints had to be replaced to accomplish or rotate the axle back which means even more work. Any experience?
Click to expand...
problem with off set ball joints is they can be hit or miss in quality and there is off set upper bushings and they can leave you to loose or tight on preload spec .

if it was me trying to dial in camber i would use a true solid steel wedge and longer new grd 8 bolt with the head ground off round . then a spacer bushing on the center pin to help it fit nice and snug in to the hole if the depth of stick out is not correct .

there is other options like a shim kit behind the spindle but on the back of the knuckle .

what is your alignment like now ? do you have a print out you can post up ?
 
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sounds like there may be some wear in front end parts. ball joints and tie rod ends, and steering gear need inspection. Have a helper work the steering wheel, while you look slop in the steering linkage. The helper should wiggle the wheel back and forth, with engine off front tires on the ground.
 
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Slowly but surely working out the front suspension issues. The pitman arm needed to be dropped Added a 2 inch drop and now she steers much better and doesn't walk any more. With that being said the steering is a little slow when taking a corner and the steering wheel doesn't come back to center after the turn but only when you turn the exact opposite way will is come back to center.

learned: need a drop pitman arm with a 3 inch lift.
 
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