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35 Spline Upgrade. Which ones?

MTBLAZER89

MTBLAZER89

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Ok so I finally broke a 30 spline stub after 3 years on 40's and in the mud even. I suspect I may have twisted or cracked it at some point previous. Anyway..

Where is the best place to get 4340 35 spline outers, and drive flanges? Lifetime warranty stuff a plus too.

I am trying to make this somewhat cost efficient and am even tossing the idea of getting a used set of 30 spline shafts and having a spare. The downside to that is I blew the cap out of the Spicer hub on that side too so replacing that isn't cheap at all!!

One other question is if I am going to Chromo on the outers should I get the inners as well?
 
onetonbb74 said:
I ran this kit because I kept braking stubs and hubs...I want to upgrade the inners eventually. This kit went up 30 bucks from last year, but it still cheap enough. I carry full complete axleshafts for both sides and one 30 spline hub as a spare as well.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-6813311-dana-60-35-spline-stubs-and-slug-kit.html
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i have this kit too with matching chromoly inners - i'll let you know how they fare on sunday. i'm doing mud bogs at vermonster this weekend, and it ain't going to be pretty
 
I was looking at the ten factory stuff and Yukon due to budget and ended up going the Yukon route. I just pm'd a bunch of pirate vendors and found the best price.
Running Yukon cromo inners, 35 spline outers and the new Yukon hubs. We'll see how it all holds up.
 
Got my Yukon stubs from ORD last year, cant remember what I payed though. I remember they were fairly reasonably priced though.
 
Don't get the Yukon outers and stock inners, I had to grind forever and a day on mine to get teh steering angle back. I'd stick with stock spicer D70 35 spline outers, cheaper and plenty strong if your 30s lasted 4 years.
 
folkenheath said:
Don't get the Yukon outers and stock inners, I had to grind forever and a day on mine to get teh steering angle back. I'd stick with stock spicer D70 35 spline outers, cheaper and plenty strong if your 30s lasted 4 years.
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This^^^
 
I went with yukon chromo 35spl outers and polyperformance drive flanges. Had to grind on the stubs so that they would fit through the knuckle. But it was no big deal. Im happy with them so far
 
muddermilitia said:
I went with yukon chromo 35spl outers and polyperformance drive flanges. Had to grind on the stubs so that they would fit through the knuckle. But it was no big deal. Im happy with them so far
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Yeah, grindking for the knuckle clearance is no big deal, but if you don't like your steering angle being reduced from 40 degrees to 28 degrees or so, then it takes a while to fix that, unless you go all yukon, I would stay away from yukon outers only.
 
I have yukon outers and superior inners. I would go though a major vendor too, not someone who does it in there garage on the side. I have waranteed stuff from ECGS and ORD and it was great service. IMO call up Chris at ORD first and see what he can do for ya.
 
Yukon inner and outer with ECGS flanges and super joints . No time on them yet. Ended up grinding the knuckles, couldn't grind the shafts. I like the drive flanges too, with their dummy slug for 2wd use, it's the strongest way to go AND still get 2wd for the trip home.
 
folkenheath said:
Don't get the Yukon outers and stock inners, I had to grind forever and a day on mine to get teh steering angle back. I'd stick with stock spicer D70 35 spline outers, cheaper and plenty strong if your 30s lasted 4 years.
Click to expand...

Is this due to the yokes on the different shafts? I don't wanna lose any steering. Its turns bad enough welded in the front! :doah:

I thought about the D70 inners. I saw them somewhere when I was searching. I think WFO has them on their site. The hubs is where I am really torn. Being welded in the front it is nice to be able to unlock during the dry season so I can turn, but I don't wanna drop the coin for 35 spline hubs. Flanges it is, but then I'm like UGh! Now I gotta drop the coin for a locker up front, or finish this doubler so I can use 2 lo. Snowballing...snowballing :whistle:
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
Is this due to the yokes on the different shafts? I don't wanna lose any steering. Its turns bad enough welded in the front! :doah:
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Yes, stock shafts and yukons (and most likely other brands) have the shaft angle clearance in different locations on the yoke. So it required a lot of grinding on the stub yoke to get my steering angle back to factory, I would not buy them again. I would go stock spicer 35 stubs, or full (inner/outer) Moser or Superior.
 
You can use 2 lo (rwd) w/ just a 205 if you twin stick it, no internal mods or doubler required. You have to grind the shift rails if you want front only though.
 
folkenheath said:
Yes, stock shafts and yukons (and most likely other brands) have the shaft angle clearance in different locations on the yoke. So it required a lot of grinding on the stub yoke to get my steering angle back to factory, I would not buy them again. I would go stock spicer 35 stubs, or full (inner/outer) Moser or Superior.
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Ok cool good to know. I am leaning toward the stock D70 shafts. They look like a substatial upgrade. Until I replace my tired ol TBI 350 I imagine they will hold up fine.

folkenheath said:
You can use 2 lo (rwd) w/ just a 205 if you twin stick it, no internal mods or doubler required. You have to grind the shift rails if you want front only though.
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Yeah I am doing the 241/205 setup, or possibly the Magnum box from ORD. Same outcome with the 205 on the rear though. Currently just running a 241.
 
I run Yukon 35-spline stubs with newer Spicer inners but they were installed many years ago. Don't have any angle problems with steering, and can't remember if I had to do any grinding to get them through the knuckles (but that means if I did it wasn't much at all). Also run 35-spline Mt. Logan slugs with Spicer u-joints.

Previously I went through 3 stock 30-spline stubs and a stock neck down inner in about 1.5 years with a smaller tire then what I have now. No problems since.

A friend runs Yukon inner and outer shafts with some sort of high strength u-joint and they have held up for several years. He runs 42's, built big-block, fullsize Ford truck and uses lots of throttle (but it is an auto and not much gearing). Previously he ran Spicer 35-spline stubs, inners, and u-joints and finally broke a stub. The other problem he had with Spicer stuff is the yokes where the u-joints press into started to wobble out and he had to have them tack welded. Another guy in our club had the same problem.
 
I blew up a Spicer 35 on mine... Same issues with caps having to be welded as well...

Call Randy's, they can get you a good deal on Yukons and if you blow something up they are local for warranty...
 
Ive heard nothing good about Moser axles, whether they are 4x axles or drag axles. Say no
 
bent72 said:
Ive heard nothing good about Moser axles, whether they are 4x axles or drag axles. Say no
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You must have never had a set? They have a good reputation in the drag community. I would not hesitate to run them in my 4x, I've had two sets in two other axles and know a lot of people running them with no compaints. Now they aren't a Mark Williams but for their Made in USA price they are a good axle.
 
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