Hello,
First time DIY engine swap for this guy so any tips and advice are welcome as I will probably have plenty of questions and dumb ideas.
My 1990 GMC V1500 Suburban with a 350 and 700R4 lost its 350 TBI motor this summer. I have always wanted a 383 stroker, so I figured now or never. My other thread (https://ck5.com/forums/threads/90-burb-getting-a-383-which-fuel-system.341274/) and other threads on the topic led me to decide on ditching the TBI setup for an edelbrock flo pro 4. This was stretching my budget a bit (ok alot), but I convinced my wife (and myself) that we would be better off investing some money in my old suburban rather than going out and getting a new vehicle payment. We have to have 2 rigs and prefer to keep a 3rd running as a spare. Our spare has been my full time since August and I'm about done with the car!
I ordered the 383 from S&J engines out of Spokane, WA. The flo pro 4 with volcano (and other various parts) were ordered from @folkenheath.



The weekend I planned on pulling the motor this happened . . .

and my garage isn't big enough to fit the suburban and use the engine hoist. So after another 14" of snow fell later that week, it thawed and warmed so I got started pulling the engine two weekends ago.
Out with the old . . .

A week ago Sunday I installed the new in tank fuel pump and started to prep the new engine for install. Installed the new intake manifold, went to torque the bolts and broke the second one off! WTF . . . well I had set the torque wrench to the wrong line and was getting over 30lb/ft rather than the 11lb/ft called for. Couldn't find my ez-outs so off to the parts store in the morning. Luckily it came out easy as pie.
Here's where the novice shows through! I didn't quite understand what I was getting and what all I was missing at this point. I like to do my own work and enjoy wrenching on my own stuff, but I have never done an engine swap so some may find my complete mess of planning/execution amusing. If nothing else this has been a learning experience so far and will continue to be as I get this finished!
1. Timing cover/gaskets: none on new engine. Needed buy gaskets and remove old cover. After getting prices locally I decided to order a new one from summit with gaskets. Also ordered new stainless bolts.
2. Oil pan/gasket: no pan on new engine, but they did supply the gasket. Ordered new bolts from summit.
3. Oil pump: came with engine, but no pickup/screen. I ordered the wrong size screen . . .
4. Rear main seal: supplied in gasket kit with engine, but no retainer. Remove from old engine and cleanup
5. Valve covers: none supplied with new engine. Old ones were caked with sludge and did not want to come
clean . . . order new ones. Then realized I'll need breathers/caps/PCV
6. Headers: Ordered new shorty headers hoping to use old exhaust.
7. Serpentine accessory drive: I planned to use all the old stuff
8. Radiator: TBD still, but will flush and use the old one temporarily (same with water pump).
9. Oil cooler: Deleted and a Melling oil filter adapter ordered.
Thursday after work I started prepping the new engine for install. . . . this is when I discovered the supplied melling oil pump required a 3/4" pickup tube/screen and I had ordered a 5/8".

So Friday (day off work) I drop kids off at school then my daughter and I drive the 40 minutes to the next closest O'Reilly's with the correct size in stock. I get home and go to install this thing and wow . . . without the correct tool that is a pain in the * to install. I set the angle for pan clearance then drilled and tapped the pump to install a set screw. Set screw received green locktite and then got pined in place with a few punches from a chisel to make sure it never walks out.

Pump installed, rear main installed, oil pan with new bolts installed, flex plate installed . . .making progress!
I installed the new flo pro manifold the prior weekend, but then realized I forgot to put RTV on the front and rear portions where it mates to the block. Drop the engine from hoist, remove manifold, apply RTV, reinstall manifold.
Install timing cover with old bolts I painstakingly cleaned and painted the night before. Install balancer, then realize I forgot to install timing cover with the new stainless bolts I ordered. Oh well, too late now. I was glad to see that when I installed the timing indicator tab it lined up perfectly with the timing line on the balancer! Win
Test fit headers and valve covers and take a pic.

Installed new poly motor mount bushings in the old clamshell, clean and paint the old motor mount hardware for the engine side.
Adjust the valves, rotate engine, adjust valves, rotate engine, adjust valves again. Install baffles in valve covers, break off screw in valve cover! Decide that will be the side to fill oil with. Install the other baffle and use better screws. Nothing broke this time. Install valve covers. Install motor mounts.
About ready to drop in the engine, then I look at the old wiring. I figure I'll need the oil pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, and alternator wires for gauges to work. I'll need the coil wire for new coil. And the rest I hope is ready to be cut off, but I get nervous about hacking on the old wiring and tape it all up and stuff it out of the way for now.
Dropping the engine in . . . . well that was fun! Took about 2.5hrs longer than I had figured. The drivers side did not want to slide down over the motor mount. A little persuasion with prybars, hammers, and finally 2in ratchet strap around the motor mount-under the front axle-back to the transfer case cross member made her slide in to place.
Yesterday I finished bolting up the transmission and torque converter. Installed headers and connected exhaust (they fit!). Installed fuel lines and fittings; and started installing the serpentine/front accessories.

With any luck during my evenings after work this week I'll be able to install the flo pro wiring, starter, finish front serpentine drive, and reinstall the radiator/hoses. . .
First time DIY engine swap for this guy so any tips and advice are welcome as I will probably have plenty of questions and dumb ideas.
My 1990 GMC V1500 Suburban with a 350 and 700R4 lost its 350 TBI motor this summer. I have always wanted a 383 stroker, so I figured now or never. My other thread (https://ck5.com/forums/threads/90-burb-getting-a-383-which-fuel-system.341274/) and other threads on the topic led me to decide on ditching the TBI setup for an edelbrock flo pro 4. This was stretching my budget a bit (ok alot), but I convinced my wife (and myself) that we would be better off investing some money in my old suburban rather than going out and getting a new vehicle payment. We have to have 2 rigs and prefer to keep a 3rd running as a spare. Our spare has been my full time since August and I'm about done with the car!
I ordered the 383 from S&J engines out of Spokane, WA. The flo pro 4 with volcano (and other various parts) were ordered from @folkenheath.
The weekend I planned on pulling the motor this happened . . .
and my garage isn't big enough to fit the suburban and use the engine hoist. So after another 14" of snow fell later that week, it thawed and warmed so I got started pulling the engine two weekends ago.
Out with the old . . .
A week ago Sunday I installed the new in tank fuel pump and started to prep the new engine for install. Installed the new intake manifold, went to torque the bolts and broke the second one off! WTF . . . well I had set the torque wrench to the wrong line and was getting over 30lb/ft rather than the 11lb/ft called for. Couldn't find my ez-outs so off to the parts store in the morning. Luckily it came out easy as pie.
Here's where the novice shows through! I didn't quite understand what I was getting and what all I was missing at this point. I like to do my own work and enjoy wrenching on my own stuff, but I have never done an engine swap so some may find my complete mess of planning/execution amusing. If nothing else this has been a learning experience so far and will continue to be as I get this finished!
1. Timing cover/gaskets: none on new engine. Needed buy gaskets and remove old cover. After getting prices locally I decided to order a new one from summit with gaskets. Also ordered new stainless bolts.
2. Oil pan/gasket: no pan on new engine, but they did supply the gasket. Ordered new bolts from summit.
3. Oil pump: came with engine, but no pickup/screen. I ordered the wrong size screen . . .
4. Rear main seal: supplied in gasket kit with engine, but no retainer. Remove from old engine and cleanup
5. Valve covers: none supplied with new engine. Old ones were caked with sludge and did not want to come
clean . . . order new ones. Then realized I'll need breathers/caps/PCV
6. Headers: Ordered new shorty headers hoping to use old exhaust.
7. Serpentine accessory drive: I planned to use all the old stuff
8. Radiator: TBD still, but will flush and use the old one temporarily (same with water pump).
9. Oil cooler: Deleted and a Melling oil filter adapter ordered.
Thursday after work I started prepping the new engine for install. . . . this is when I discovered the supplied melling oil pump required a 3/4" pickup tube/screen and I had ordered a 5/8".
So Friday (day off work) I drop kids off at school then my daughter and I drive the 40 minutes to the next closest O'Reilly's with the correct size in stock. I get home and go to install this thing and wow . . . without the correct tool that is a pain in the * to install. I set the angle for pan clearance then drilled and tapped the pump to install a set screw. Set screw received green locktite and then got pined in place with a few punches from a chisel to make sure it never walks out.
Pump installed, rear main installed, oil pan with new bolts installed, flex plate installed . . .making progress!
I installed the new flo pro manifold the prior weekend, but then realized I forgot to put RTV on the front and rear portions where it mates to the block. Drop the engine from hoist, remove manifold, apply RTV, reinstall manifold.
Install timing cover with old bolts I painstakingly cleaned and painted the night before. Install balancer, then realize I forgot to install timing cover with the new stainless bolts I ordered. Oh well, too late now. I was glad to see that when I installed the timing indicator tab it lined up perfectly with the timing line on the balancer! Win
Test fit headers and valve covers and take a pic.
Installed new poly motor mount bushings in the old clamshell, clean and paint the old motor mount hardware for the engine side.
Adjust the valves, rotate engine, adjust valves, rotate engine, adjust valves again. Install baffles in valve covers, break off screw in valve cover! Decide that will be the side to fill oil with. Install the other baffle and use better screws. Nothing broke this time. Install valve covers. Install motor mounts.
About ready to drop in the engine, then I look at the old wiring. I figure I'll need the oil pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, and alternator wires for gauges to work. I'll need the coil wire for new coil. And the rest I hope is ready to be cut off, but I get nervous about hacking on the old wiring and tape it all up and stuff it out of the way for now.
Dropping the engine in . . . . well that was fun! Took about 2.5hrs longer than I had figured. The drivers side did not want to slide down over the motor mount. A little persuasion with prybars, hammers, and finally 2in ratchet strap around the motor mount-under the front axle-back to the transfer case cross member made her slide in to place.
Yesterday I finished bolting up the transmission and torque converter. Installed headers and connected exhaust (they fit!). Installed fuel lines and fittings; and started installing the serpentine/front accessories.
With any luck during my evenings after work this week I'll be able to install the flo pro wiring, starter, finish front serpentine drive, and reinstall the radiator/hoses. . .
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My wife has left the garage hours ago and returns to tell me to call my brother for help! Seriously! I'm pretty adamant about figuring out things for myself, especially when I know its not over my head.