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350 Timing Adjustment *UPDATE EXPERTS NEEDED*

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GalDemSuga

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What should be the correct timing on a 1989 350 TBI?
My timing cover is missing the pointer also and I dont have or know how to use a timing light. I'll will give it a good effort:)
 
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You first have to disconnect the EST connector near the brake booster then you set the timing to ZERO. If your timing tab is missing you're going to need to buy one first before you do anything, guessing IS NOT a good idea.
 
4X4HIGH said:
You first have to disconnect the EST connector near the brake booster then you set the timing to ZERO. If your timing tab is missing you're going to need to buy one first before you do anything, guessing IS NOT a good idea.
Click to expand...

Ok. I just saw one at Advanceauto, I'll see about getting that installed.
 
I don't run my '88 at zero like it calls for. It is very happy at 6-8* and does not ping, even in warm weather with the AC on.
 
USSkoval said:
I don't run my '88 at zero like it calls for. It is very happy at 6-8* and does not ping, even in warm weather with the AC on.
Click to expand...

so "pinging" is what mine is doing?

On a somewhat related matter, I'm having some WinALDL trouble.
It's not giving me any data when I attempt to log. No data except for PROMIDA and PROMIDB.
 
4X4HIGH said:
If it sounds like a can of marbles rattling around when you hit the throttle then yes that is pinging or what is called detonation.
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Yes that is it. I tried adjusting the timing in increments back or forth and then driving the truck to see what happens. That sound simply wont go away.

I'm not getting any engine codes or erractic idling, all seems well except for the pinging sound. I'd really like to see what the truck is doing but WinALDL wont work. The ECM is new.
 
whats the mileage on the motor? might have a carbon build-up...
 
GalDemSuga said:
Yes that is it. I tried adjusting the timing in increments back or forth and then driving the truck to see what happens. That sound simply wont go away.

I'm not getting any engine codes or erractic idling, all seems well except for the pinging sound. I'd really like to see what the truck is doing but WinALDL wont work. The ECM is new.
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Have you used a higher octane of fuel yet? If not then i would suggest you bump up to the next level on your next fill-up and see if that helps. If it doesn't help then put the highest octane rating fuel in and see once again if that helps. If octane rating doesn't change anything then you need to be looking at spark plug heat range next.

Is the engine stock or has it been built? The reason i ask is because if the compression ratio is too high (9.5 or higher with cast iron heads) you will never get the detonation to go away.
 
ryoken said:
whats the mileage on the motor? might have a carbon build-up...
Click to expand...

It's got 15000. I had that motor installed last March and then swapped it into this new truck after wrecking the old truck lat July. I changed the intake manifold last June and I remember chipping out the carbon buildup in the EGR valve. This truck hasn't been driven since July as I only just finished the build.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Have you used a higher octane of fuel yet? If not then i would suggest you bump up to the next level on your next fill-up and see if that helps. If it doesn't help then put the highest octane rating fuel in and see once again if that helps. If octane rating doesn't change anything then you need to be looking at spark plug heat range next.

Is the engine stock or has it been built? The reason i ask is because if the compression ratio is too high (9.5 or higher with cast iron heads) you will never get the detonation to go away.
Click to expand...

I will use a higher octane when I run this tank empty during my test run to Savannah, GA on Monday.
As for the compression, I recall the builder telling me that it had to be reworked a few time because it was blowing seals when he first built it. the first few months of driving this motor I had plenty oil leaks mainly from the timing cover, and s little from the oil pan. I took care of that with plenty Permatex Right Stuff and the new gaskets back in April last year.

I was under the truck tonight and its starting to leak ever so slighty.
 
I finally got WinALDL working and I'm able to see what she's doing.
I've got a Rich Flag and BLMs of 108 at idle. I will log on my way to my hotel tonight and she what she does. She's idling @ 550 RPMs.

Also, I've noticed that my voltage is 13.3 to 15.7 while running WinALDL. I havd been concerned with voltage since I started to notice my headlights getting really bright before returning to normal.
 
4X4HIGH said:
You first have to disconnect the EST connector near the brake booster then you set the timing to ZERO. If your timing tab is missing you're going to need to buy one first before you do anything, guessing IS NOT a good idea.
Click to expand...

I finally replaced the timing cover with matching harmonic balancer today. I also bought a timing light and went to town on her.

I set the timing to Zero and got code 43 soon after. I cleared the code and set the timing to 4 degrees above the 0 mark. I took it for a test run and got code 43 again. Plus my trans shifted like crap.

I need to start over tomorrow.
 
Code 43 IIRC is the ESC module.

EDIT: Code 43 could be a number of things such as, ESC module, TPS switch out of adjustment, or Knock sensor signal
 
4X4HIGH said:
Code 43 IIRC is the ESC module.

EDIT: Code 43 could be a number of things such as, ESC module, TPS switch out of adjustment, or Knock sensor signal
Click to expand...

I figured out what I did wrong. I did not disconnect the EST Connector before I set the timing:crazy:. I know you told me to do that:doah:

Tomorrow I will redo the timing. Should I readjust the TV Cable once the timing is set?
 
GalDemSuga said:
I figured out what I did wrong. I did not disconnect the EST Connector before I set the timing:crazy:. I know you told me to do that:doah:

Tomorrow I will redo the timing. Should I readjust the TV Cable once the timing is set?
Click to expand...

Man your just in real bad need of actual facts and not internet mechanics.
First off get a BOOK, Even a crappy chilton manual is better than the info your getting right now. To set your TV cable, Which my fereind is CRITICAL to the life of a TH700r4 you open the throttle fully and set the cable so its pulled out fully as well. Its in the book too I bet
and the compression was changed a few times because of it causing oil leaks? I would also steer clear of that so called mechanic(hack)
For those of you that need a company you can trust Id suggest u deal with a reputable source like Jasper engines and transmissions. You get what you pay for and sometime you pay for more than you get.
If the book is of no help t o you then Pm me, Ive been doing this for a couple weeks :haha:http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/tvcable.htm
 
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Madspeed said:
Man your just in real bad need of actual facts and not internet mechanics.
First off get a BOOK, Even a crappy chilton manual is better than the info your getting right now. To set your TV cable, Which my fereind is CRITICAL to the life of a TH700r4 you open the throttle fully and set the cable so its pulled out fully as well. Its in the book too I bet
and the compression was changed a few times because of it causing oil leaks? I would also steer clear of that so called mechanic(hack)
For those of you that need a company you can trust Id suggest u deal with a reputable source like Jasper engines and transmissions. You get what you pay for and sometime you pay for more than you get.
If the book is of no help t o you then Pm me, Ive been doing this for a couple weeks :haha:http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/tvcable.htm
Click to expand...

So let me get this straight, you're bashing everyone that has given advise in this thread? Did you ever think that someone besides you and chiltons might just know how to work on a vehicle?

And the TV cable has nothing to do with the timing:confused:

And one more thing, Jasper is a joke.
 
I've got the timing at 0 now with the EST disconnected. I took a glance at the dash and the engine light came on while I did the timing. I'm guessing its because of the disconnected EST.

Now to bolt down the distributor and see how she does.
 
4X4HIGH said:
You first have to disconnect the EST connector near the brake booster then you set the timing to ZERO. If your timing tab is missing you're going to need to buy one first before you do anything, guessing IS NOT a good idea.
Click to expand...

This is pretty sound advice. Both recomendations are actual facts. ;)
 
bp71k5 said:
This is pretty sound advice. Both recomendations are actual facts. ;)
Click to expand...

I've done both and now the base timing is at 0.
She's idling now with the EST reconnected and seems ok.
I put the timing light back on the markers but the mark on the balancer does not line up anywhere on the timing cover:confused:

Is that the whole point; set the base timing and then the ECM takes over?
 
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