Picked one up today. First one I've seen on marketplace.
Spent 12 hours on the road today getting it.
CK5
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4.10’s or 4.56’s with 700r4, 35” tires
- Thread starter Chris Ziemer
- Start date
Spent 12 hours on the road today getting it.
I will say that the 4:56 will be a bunch better than the 3:08, obviously. I still somewhat wish that I had gone 4:88 in my shortbed but I decided to go 4:56 with the idea of better tooth contact between the pinion and ring gear. 
I will also say that the recommendation to get a new aftermarket limited slip differential is well worth it in my experience.
I will also say that the recommendation to get a new aftermarket limited slip differential is well worth it in my experience.
I did as a matter of fact.
I figure there'd be more available there than here in Eastern NC...the one I bought was the first 12 bolt 9.5" 6 lug I saw on marketplace.
I've been looking since I learned of their existence a couple of years back. $250, it was worth the drive.
I've read the came in the 2014 up 6.2 trucks.
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All of the 14+ V8 trucks got a 9.5”. The 19+ trucks got a 9.76” if you ordered Max Tow. It’s literally the same housing, shafts, and carrier just with bigger ring gear.
It's about time they moved on from the 8.5 in the 1/2 tons.
Yep. The transmissions got beefier too.
Hence all the yuppie a-holes complaining they can feel their transmissions shifting up and down.
Hence all the yuppie a-holes complaining they can feel their transmissions shifting up and down.
I hate how most stock automatics shift. I want them to shift firm and quick not feel like they're slipping between gears.
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve explained to guys that the downshifting clunk is often their 6, 8, or 10 speed skipping a gear or three as they slow quickly.
It’s not a shitty 4 speed from the 80’s grenading. It’s a big transmission with lots of big moving parts. They have momentum. You feel them move.
I'll be going 4:88...I will say that the 4:56 will be a bunch better than the 3:08, obviously. I still somewhat wish that I had gone 4:88 in my shortbed but I decided to go 4:56 with the idea of better tooth contact between the pinion and ring gear.
I will also say that the recommendation to get a new aftermarket limited slip differential is well worth it in my experience.
I think I found one here locally…. Looks like the same set up.
88-98 chevy 14 bolt 4x4 6 lug rear axle
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/loomis-chevy-14-bolt-4x4-lug-rear-axle/7775212571.html
88-98 chevy 14 bolt 4x4 6 lug rear axle
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/loomis-chevy-14-bolt-4x4-lug-rear-axle/7775212571.html
Not bad. You'll have to move the shock mounts and spring perches but otherwise they're good to go.
Congrats!
That’s great, thank you. I think the spring mounts needed to be moved anyway to accommodate my lift and driveline angle. It’s something I’ll have to take to a shop and just drive it in and drive it out. My talents don’t extend that far.
I called the guy left a message. We’ll see what happens.
I called the guy left a message. We’ll see what happens.
My Jimmy had a 4.56 D44 front and
a 3.73 14B FF rear when I bought it, 6” lift on 35” 300hp jegs 350, sm 465.. I geared the rear to 4.56 to match the front. GREAT ratio for wheeling, 4lo in granny is perfect for slowly creeping and climbing.. I don’t have OD so the highway is painful, turns about 2750 at 60mph. If I didn’t love the nostalgia of the 3rd pedal I’d swap to a 700r4 or something with OD.. I highly recommend 4.56s for 35s with OD, I would like to go to 38s, and am sure I’ll wish I would’ve gone higher numerically.. and the pricing sounds right, I bought the parts to gear the rear, including a grizzly locker (cheaper then posi or LSD) $800, then I paid $950 for install, called multiple shops and that was the best price from a reputable shop..
a 3.73 14B FF rear when I bought it, 6” lift on 35” 300hp jegs 350, sm 465.. I geared the rear to 4.56 to match the front. GREAT ratio for wheeling, 4lo in granny is perfect for slowly creeping and climbing.. I don’t have OD so the highway is painful, turns about 2750 at 60mph. If I didn’t love the nostalgia of the 3rd pedal I’d swap to a 700r4 or something with OD.. I highly recommend 4.56s for 35s with OD, I would like to go to 38s, and am sure I’ll wish I would’ve gone higher numerically.. and the pricing sounds right, I bought the parts to gear the rear, including a grizzly locker (cheaper then posi or LSD) $800, then I paid $950 for install, called multiple shops and that was the best price from a reputable shop..
Didn't see much mention of it here but engine torque plays a huge role in this gear choice. If you're stuck with the stock TBI 350, you just have to gear it a lot, like 4.56+, to get it to work. If you can add torque, you can get away with lower numbers in the diffs. Then vehicle weight works the opposite direction. Heavier rig is also going to reward deeper gears. Are you at high elevation? Thin air doesn't make torque and elevation generally comes with hills. Usually big ones. The 700R4 specifically tends to reward deep gears since it's controls are mechanical and that's just how it is. How fast do you drive? Do you spend a lot of time at 75-80? These are all things to consider.
In general, we've had really good luck with the same thing that pages of people have said. Assuming a smallblock of any generation:
33s-3.73 or 4.10
35s-4.56
37s-4.88
Going deeper generally won't hurt if you don't mind the rpm at high speed.
Big blocks and diesels skew the numbers.
Turns out this was written as a pretty generic answer.
In general, we've had really good luck with the same thing that pages of people have said. Assuming a smallblock of any generation:
33s-3.73 or 4.10
35s-4.56
37s-4.88
Going deeper generally won't hurt if you don't mind the rpm at high speed.
Big blocks and diesels skew the numbers.
Turns out this was written as a pretty generic answer.
The engine selection is an important part. In recent years I stopped asking about what is powering the truck because everyone seems to think their sbc is making 400 lb/ft
And most of you are wrong, no offense
And most of you are wrong, no offense
.
that's a 305 ho my man
Was going to say...not all of us have a fancy HO 305 in our purple race cars. We gotta work with what we got.
Reminds me of a while back when I was trying to dissuade a guy of the idea that the engine cubic inches was actually the HP measurement.
His 1983 F150 had a 351 hp engine man! With the 4 barrel!
Reminds me of a while back when I was trying to dissuade a guy of the idea that the engine cubic inches was actually the HP measurement.
His 1983 F150 had a 351 hp engine man! With the 4 barrel!
Yea it was funny outrunning 600Hp cars with my 303 RWHP Monte Carlo! LOL
