4 linking the rear vs. a shackle flip and 56" springs.

[handloader90]

Truck details.

LWB '73-'80 frame with an '82 2WD Cab and bed sitting on it.

350/TH350/NP205 D60/14FF

So I was making a build sheet in Microsoft Excel, inputing the items that I needed and their cost.

I was adding things up and ended up getting an email from RuffStuff which had their combination 4 Link brackets in it and they sparked my interest.

I have a few questions on this:

1) Can I use regular shocks, like some nice Bilsteins vs. using a coilover or strut?

2) Inboard vs. Outboard on the shocks? Can someone use an x-member such as the DIY4X one and run the shocks at an angle?

3) Will a single triangluated 4 link suspension eliminate wheel hop?

4) Does a single triangluated 4 link suspension eliminate the need for a track bar? I wouldn't want the axle moving around and tearing my shocks up.

5) What would the optimal wheel base be? I tossed around the idea of bobbing the bed but that may be out of the picture depending on how far forward the axle would be moved to achieve a better wheelbase. At this point the box would be removed, frame cut down and I would fab up some kind of "trail bed" made out of 2x3 tube.

Last but not least, is it worth doing?

I know that I'll need the following items:

Bracketry (frame, axle tube and top of truss)
Truss
Links
Heims
Limit Straps
Extended Bump Stops, possibly Air Bumps
Frame boxing
Shocks

 

[blazinzuk]

1. Yes

2. Yes. Shocks control oscillation same theory's as leaf springs apply. For the most part

3.yes

4.yes. axle will still move side to side but less typically speaking

5. Optimal wheel base doesn't exist. But 110 to 125 seems to be solid. I'm 120 I like it

 

[handloader90]

1. Yes

2. Yes. Shocks control oscillation same theory's as leaf springs apply. For the most part

3.yes

4.yes. axle will still move side to side but less typically speaking

5. Optimal wheel base doesn't exist. But 110 to 125 seems to be solid. I'm 120 I like it

Thanks for those answers!

 

[blazinzuk]

When comparing to leafs links win at everything except cost and sidehill stability

 

[handloader90]

I'm gonna price it out but I'm guessing the cost won't be too bad due to half of the stuff I would be using for the 4 Link I was planning on doing with the leaf sprung suspension anyway.

Truck is currently stock. I WAS going to do the following:

56" Junkyard Springs
Poly Bushings
DIY4X Shackle Flip
DIY4X 6" Cross-Tied Shackles
Rear Traction Bar
Shocks
Shock Inboarding (Home fabbed)
Arte Modular Truss (Fits between the perches)

 

[blazinzuk]

I have used Cherokee and grand Cherokee coils on the rear before. I think we decided around a 200 to 250 rate was best.

 

[handloader90]

I have used Cherokee and grand Cherokee coils on the rear before. I think we decided around a 200 to 250 rate was best.

Do you have to use coils?

You can't just have the links and shocks?

 

[blazinzuk]

Shocks don't support weight. They control spring oscillation. That's it.

Springs support weight

 

[blazinzuk]

Air shocks can hold weight but not normal shocks.

 

[handloader90]

Air shocks can hold weight but not normal shocks.

Ok. Do you think a 2" air shock would be enough?

 

[blazinzuk]

Ok. Do you think a 2" air shock would be enough?

For straight up crawling? Maybe, I haven't dealt alot with air shocks. But for full size stuff I tend to suggest 2.5 anything.

 

[ktmoutfront]

What type of air shock are you thinking of? I haven't seen an air shock I would run on the highway. 4 link, needs a spring of some kind to hold the truck up, weather that is a cool, coilover shock or air bags is up to you.

 

[blazinzuk]

So going back through some stuff air shocks ( 2.5s ) are around 1500 lbs max load. You don't wanna be anywhere close to max load. More like half of it.

Also what Wade said is true not a fan of air shocks driving. Plus they fade

I honestly would rather have some coils and Bilstein shocks rather than air shocks.

 

[handloader90]

What type of air shock are you thinking of? I haven't seen an air shock I would run on the highway. 4 link, needs a spring of some kind to hold the truck up, weather that is a cool, coilover shock or air bags is up to you.

I was looking at the fox 2.0's

 

[Smokinthehippies]

Not going to be enough. Maybe for slow speed crawling only.

 

[ktmoutfront]

Not for highway or around town driving. Would get hot and fade.

Struts are for crawling only. You have to have a spring.

 

[handloader90]

Well maybe I should stick to springs then.

 

[obijuank5]

Choosing to stick with leafs got me out of the perma-build phase. Now I am wheeling. Links are cool and all but being able to drive the truck is better.

 

[FOR MUD]

Choosing to stick with leafs got me out of the perma-build phase. Now I am wheeling. Links are cool and all but being able to drive the truck is better.

With planning you can build a link system in a couple of months if not quicker, especially if your only doing the rear.

When comparing to leafs links win at everything except cost and sidehill stability

Side hill stability would be controlled more by the coil over/strut/spring set up than the link setup.

Since your looking at during just the the rear, I don't see any reason why you wouldn't make a double triangulated. The only thing back there you need to work around is the drive shaft. The front is a lot harder with the motor/drive shaft/exhaust to worry about.

 

[GWeakland620]

This thread really has me thinking.....

I've been wanting to 4link and coils on the rear of mine for a while now. Then later it makes it easier to transition to coilovers.

Coils are cheap from my work, and I already have 16" travel 2.0 Fox Shox that would be perfect in the rear.