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44" tall X 12" Wide XMLs. My build thread.

Yah, yah, I know how to do it (thanks though) but I'm wondering about trying to get away without doing it. There's a 78/79 Hi-pin centersection on Ebay, and I have machine/weld shop, but lazy..and don't have case or wanna spend the $. Have 1 Dodge and 1 GM axle.

EDIT : Gimme yours. :D
 
38's, low pinion 60, shaved ears on stock CV shaft, 56" leaves and 14" travel shocks and still surviving:dunno:

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it really is a 38" tire
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comming out

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K10A'sBROinSLO said:
Need input on this, please...

When I go 1 ton, I'll be getting more flex(droop) and maybe more lift...my brother uses a F*RD front 60, hi pinion helps with DL angles and keeps it off the rocks. Those of you running flexy (52") suspension with lo-pinions, how do you deal with front DL angles, etc? the chevy/dodge 1 ton is a bolt in, and I have 1 of each (DRW) but I'm wondering if and how much I'd be better off with the Furd axle, and if it would be worth the trouble. (Changing Tcase, etc)

Thanks.

i asked this same question a while back, im going to be swapping in 56's in the spring. ill see if i can find you the thread, it was in the garage bout a month ago or so
 
Axles....

I've pretty much given up on the HP front 60 for now. I need to just get it 1 ton. Breakage is not acceptable. Have a couple DRW 60 fronts and couple 14 bolts.

Right now it's D44 Front, D60 rear, both locked 4.10. The 60 rear is 30 spline FF. Going 5.13. Np208 700r4 TBI 350 39" XMLs

Options I see:

1. Put the locker from the rear 60 in the front 60 and 5.13 it and buy a locker and 5.13s for the 14 bolt - possibly resell rear 60 w/guts from front 60.

2. Buy a locker and gears for the front 60 and convert the rear 60 to 35 spline and 5.13 it.

3. Or just change the gears in the rear 60 to 5.13 (leave 30 spline) and buy a locker and 5.13s for the front 60.

DRW 70 rear is also an option.

Is that clear as mud?

What say ye?

Anyone know how to set up gears/lockers?
 
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Option 1. With the direction this build is going, I think you're going to want more beef than that rear 60 has to offer without putting big money into it. Grab a 14FF, van or otherwise, and shave it/ build it to meet your needs. If you want to keep the 60, I'd look at a spool for it after you move the Detroit up front.
 
How about this....put the rear 60 locker and 5.13s in the front, put 5.13s and 35 spline locker or spool in the rear 60 - steal the 35 spline shafts out of the 70 for the 60. Need to make sure that'd work. Kinda like the weight savings of the 60 over the 14.
 
SRW wheels on DRW axles

Wanna try wiiiide...anyone done it? I can see that it might make steering difficult, but I'll have a ram anyway. Thoughts?
 
Beans. Just went to swap in the spare short side inner axleshaft and it's too long by about 2". Stupid J**P axle.

Need to 1 ton it.
 
Popcorn in my cat?

:D

The PO put remote start on my blazer...nice on those chilly morning and hot afternoons. :thumb:The thing is, when I start it from my bedroom in the morning to warm up while I put on my dress and makeup, it makes this random poppping noise out the exhaust, like little miniature backfires every few seconds. It's a stock 88 TBI as far as I know, engine replaced 30k ago. Any ideas? Oh, and it does it no matter how I start it.
 
K10A'sBROinSLO said:
:D

The PO put remote start on my blazer...nice on those chilly morning and hot afternoons. :thumb:The thing is, when I start it from my bedroom in the morning to warm up while I put on my dress and makeup, it makes this random poppping noise out the exhaust, like little miniature backfires every few seconds. It's a stock 88 TBI as far as I know, engine replaced 30k ago. Any ideas? Oh, and it does it no matter how I start it.

Could be alot of things: timing, valve adjustment, valve problems, sloppy timing chain.

Just throwing some ideas out there...
 
Hm...I was thinking maybe the TBI was running rich or something. But yeah, I suppose it could be a lot of stuff. Only does it when it's cold though.
 
K10A'sBROinSLO said:
Hm...I was thinking maybe the TBI was running rich or something. But yeah, I suppose it could be a lot of stuff. Only does it when it's cold though.

Well also when was the last tune up? You might have some worn ignition components. Thats probably not the problem, but its an idea...
 
Posted in wanted section, but applies to my build too I think.

Have a 44 front and D60 rear, going to 14FF/ D60, want to take the Detroit out of my rear 60 and put it in my front 60, but the rear 60 is 30 spline and the front 60 is 35 spline....anyone have some spare 35 spline D60 Detroit side gears laying around? I'm hurting for them, trying to get it locked 1 ton for New Years wheeling, I'm popping these 44/60 axleshafts like Rice Krispies every time out.

Busted front D44 driver side outer and driver side (30 spline 60 rear) like nothing in soft loose dirt not aired down last night. :doah: :rolleyes:

THANX
 
Scored a CUCV 14 bolt and a 60 for $200.:D Now I'm thrashing to get them put under the Blazer for New Years.
 
The K5 is almost "done". Starting to think about the crew cab now. Need to fix cylinder #5 and put a carb on it. Anyone got a 454 TBI setup laying around? :D Prolly ditch the blazer eventually, and swap the 1 tons into the CC, unless I get my hands on another set of those CUCV axles around here. Blazer was a good deal to get me wheeling ASAP so I didn't die of dirt deprivation, but what I really want is a crew cab.

On the CC, I'll strip the trim and semigloss black it like the K5 and I think I'm going to run it with the XZLs - duals in the rear on an SRW axle. The C&C would put the inner tires into the leaf springs, unless I inboard them, and the D70 DRW is just way too wide. I think I'll run the DRW hubs in the front with SRW wheels to make it match the width of the rear approximately.

Anyone got inboarding info/links?


I found this link, shows what I am thinking of. Liking it.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1776054#post1776054
 
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