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454 Motor build

rdn2blazer

rdn2blazer

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Want to help me find a direction? Boy ain’t that a loaded question lol! My K5 is a 73’, so no smog. I’ve got a bone stock 96’ 454 I got from Last longbedder many many years ago. Just want a Budget rebuild of a about 60k mile motor. So it needs very little. Maybe just a re-bearing & re-Gasket after a hot tanking. Anyone want to help me get a Motor together? Will take all the help I can get. I have a new crank for it back believe the end ply is excessive.
 
Well, start there. If end play is shot make sure you you only lost thrust bearings and not a block...


Then strip it to nothing and clean and inspect everything.


Then we'll talk.



FYI, I'll hack my own junk together, but I spent some time in a engine shop...
 
Do 781, or 049 heads bolt on a 96 454?

I'd get to about 9.5:1 compression, take advantage of that roller cam compatible block, and just enjoy it.
 
You may already know but there are 3 generations of big blocks, each with significant differences from the other and not all parts interchange. '96 was the first year of the Gen VI design, since there's always the possibility of old stock carryover during vehicle production I would triple check what you have so you get the right parts. The Gen VI design will have a 6 bolt timing cover AND a mechanical fuel pump boss, a Gen V will have a 6 bolt timing cover but NO mechanical fuel pump boss.

The previously mentioned 049 & 781 casting heads are by far the preferred OE iron head but they are Gen IV design. I know they require a special head gasket to work on a Gen V, I'm thinking the Gen VI block was redesigned to accept them but double that.

Gen V & VI blocks are all 4 bolt main with a 1 pc rear seal, they're a win / win on that. The Gen VI has taller lifter bosses and is not backwards compatible with respect to lifters, another reason to be sure which generation you have.

Check this article, it has decent pics of some of the differences. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/4567-chevrolet-big-block-engine-generations/
 
I also have the already rebuilt 89’ 3500 crew cab Gen? Motor I could also drop in the K5. Not sure the direction with the 89’ crew cab I want to go just yet is. But I could use the already 90% Motor and finish to up to just get the K5 running??? Good idea or use the next Gen 96’ TBI Motor I have?
 
Want to upgrade to a modern TBI. Holley? FAST? Other? I have a complete new wiring harness for my truck.
 
Or this



12 Crate Engines - Budget Crates!
Twelve Killer Crate Engine Deals for Every Budget
Stephen Kim Jun 25, 2012
View Full Gallery
Let’s go easy on the doom and gloom, OK? Sure, the global economy has seen better days, but as hot rodders, we’re accustomed to transcending adversity. As a group who’s collectively survived OPEC oil embargos and performance-straining smog laws, the current state of affairs is nothing. We’ve gone from 165hp Corvettes in the mid ’70s to the 639hp C6 models that are available today. Hot rodders are a stubborn bunch, and the industry has a way of adapting to our demands. For proof, all you have to do is check out the current crop of crate motors. There are tons of budget-oriented options that are out there, which is why we decided to round a dozen of them up for a closer look. Our search found two small-blocks that hit 400 hp for about $3,000, a sub-$4,000 LS long-block, and a 590hp Rat that comes in under $7,000. Factor in the money you save on shipping dozens of parts to your door, and the gas saved hauling those parts to the machine shop and back, and the value and convenience of a crate motor makes even more sense compared to building a motor yourself. The deals are out there, so let’s take a look.



YearOne 357


1208chp-01%2b12-crate-engines%2byearone.jpg
2/13






Nothing fancy here, just a good ’ol 357 small-block for peanuts that makes an even 400 hp and 400 lb-ft. YearOne is best known for making just about every restoration part imaginable for your classic Bow Tie, but the company also offers a line of value-oriented crate motors. This 357 is a perfect example. YearOne starts with a stock four-bolt block, bores it 0.040 over, and matches it up with a stock crank, rods, and a fresh set of 9.7:1 pistons. Keeping the cylinders full of air are aluminum heads and a dual-plane intake manifold. With a mild hydraulic roller cam actuating the valves, the combo puts out a solid 400 hp. The motor includes a timing cover, oil pan, balancer, and flexplate. Just slap on a water pump, carb, and distributor, and you’re good to go.


YearOne
800.932.7663 · yearone.com



Specifications
Cubes: 357
Bore/Stroke: 4.040x3.480 inches
Output: 400 hp and 400 lb-ft
Block: Factory GM iron
Crank: GM iron
Rods: GM 5.700-inch powdered metal
Pistons: Hypereutectic 9.7:1
Cylinder Heads: Edelbrock E-Tec aluminum
Intake: Edelbrock E-Tec dual-plane
Warranty: Two years, 24,000 miles
Price: $3,499
 
I sold a few of the rebuilt engines we dealt with at parts stores by a company in Texas years ago,I think "Mustang" was the brand,probably similar to Jasper and numerous other companies--they had been all bored out oversize it seemed ,even if the engine didn't really need boring,and a 400 Ford and a 400 SB Chevy,two 350's and a 327 all cracked within the warranty period,all were bored .040 to .060 oversize..

Nearly all of these engines went in 4x4 trucks or cars the owners wanted more power from for towing ,off roading or muscle cars,and the ones in the trucks failed when the owners loaded them up with camping gear and headed for a distant campground--one with the 400 Ford V8 got stuck in a traffic jam for 2 hours going to NH and the engine cracked after it started overheating..the owner had issues with it not staying under 220 degrees despite a new radiator & thermostat,water pump,and hoses...another one of the Chevy 350's went in a K5 and it never made it to the Cape Cod canal,only 20 miles from the owners house,where it cracked,filled the oil pan with coolant,and wouldn't even spin over..it died a few hundred feet from the Bourne Bridge in gridlock ..

I dont trust engines that have been bored really,if I had no choice but to get one that was, I'd prefer it to be .030 or less if it were going to be used in heavy duty applications or towing,off road,hot weather highway driving long distances..even .030 seems kind of scary ,I'd much rather have a standard bore or maybe a .010 if possible..
Many engines are thin enough as it is..
 
Definitly good bang for the buck. Hopefully it's in a good range for use in a giant truck.
 
If you want FI, and now you are considering a small block, then why not just skip to an LS style 5.3 or 6.0? Clean up the harness or buy one for a swap. It will be a roller cam, have FI, the bottom ends are known to hold up great even with boost. A used LS could be cleaned up. I would do gaskets at a minimum as leaks sucks, rings and bearings if needed. Definitely do a cam upgrade on an LS, as others say it really wakes them up. I went down the gen I sbc route, and ended up at 406 cubic inches and many cubic dollars for the roller valvetrain, aluminum top end, forged parts, etc. for my 79 C20. My K5 got a stock 350 tb GM crate engine, but I wish an LS would have been an option for me when I did it.

Run a little supercharger on an LS, and you will really gain some power, and I would think it would be less expensive than a sbc or bbc built to the same power levels.

Unless you just want the direct bolt in of the old engines, or the nostalgia, why not switch to the new "sbc"?
 
CGT80 said:
If you want FI, and now you are considering a small block, then why not just skip to an LS style 5.3 or 6.0? Clean up the harness or buy one for a swap. It will be a roller cam, have FI, the bottom ends are known to hold up great even with boost. A used LS could be cleaned up. I would do gaskets at a minimum as leaks sucks, rings and bearings if needed. Definitely do a cam upgrade on an LS, as others say it really wakes them up. I went down the gen I sbc route, and ended up at 406 cubic inches and many cubic dollars for the roller valvetrain, aluminum top end, forged parts, etc. for my 79 C20. My K5 got a stock 350 tb GM crate engine, but I wish an LS would have been an option for me when I did it.

Run a little supercharger on an LS, and you will really gain some power, and I would think it would be less expensive than a sbc or bbc built to the same power levels.

Unless you just want the direct bolt in of the old engines, or the nostalgia, why not switch to the new "sbc"?
Click to expand...
I would agree with you if I don't have the engine and it's a running engine.
Rob started with that and now looking at ready to go engines.
I agree at this point it's better to go ls
 
rdn2blazer said:
Want to help me find a direction? Boy ain’t that a loaded question lol! My K5 is a 73’, so no smog. I’ve got a bone stock 96’ 454 I got from Last longbedder many many years ago. Just want a Budget rebuild of a about 60k mile motor. So it needs very little. Maybe just a re-bearing & re-Gasket after a hot tanking. Anyone want to help me get a Motor together? Will take all the help I can get. I have a new crank for it back believe the end ply is excessive.
Click to expand...
So I have a similar situation, I have a 93, not sure what generation that would be.
I just want to freshen up the engine before I put it in my suburban.
If I find any issues I will consider upgrades while I rebuild.
 
Looking at a nice about 400HP/500TQ Build. Hopefully. A budget build as much as possible. Want to clear out stuff vs buy new. So using the 454 I got from Longbedder. I have a 4L80e for a It. Or I drop in the 89’ 454 earlier gen block. It’s been rebuilt already so a Money savings. Maybe put the 96’ in the 89’ crewcab. Not sure yet. But soon
 
Ok a little update. Next week Plan is to take my 454 to a shop and have them tear it down, re-spec everything. Verify it’s good tolerance wise. Put FAST Efi on it more then likely and have them reassemble and tune it. They’re down in El Cajon Ca.

0C61285A-D9F2-4ED9-ADBD-E05E192EDA05.jpeg
 
We used to stamp the customers initials into the block somewhere while they watched,that way no one could say we gave them back a different engine or some of its parts after it was done--which did happen at some of the other parts stores with machine shops..
I would do this if I were you too..

One customer who drag raced and gave us a lot of business told us he'd brought a BBC to one of the competitors stores that had a good reputation as far as the machine work,and when he got it back,he noted it was missing the high performance factory heads,it had oval peanut port heads on it now,he had rectangular port heads with 7/16" studs he paid $400 for on it when he brought it in,and the forged crank it had, had been swapped for a cast one!..

He confronted the store owner ,told him I want MY parts back,the owner confronted the employees in the machine shop and one told him "Oh,they were beyond repair,the heads had cracks and the crank was scored too deep to be turned",which he knew wasn't the truth..turned out one of the employees had a BBC he was building and thought he'd get some nice factory hi-perf parts for free..
The guy did get his parts back and they fired the employee--who had worked there over 10 years!..

I bet many other customers who were not that well informed about just what their engines had for factory parts,that brought them in to be rebuilt, got the "good stuff" deleted and replaced with ordinary parts over the years..

One rebuilt 350 chevy we ordered for a kid in his 20's came in,and he brought the core engine in when he picked it up..it was out of a 70's Chevy pickup,but I thought it looked "Corvette" to me--I looked up the casting numbers ,and it turned out to be from a '71 Vette LT1!...

I told him for a $100 core charge,I'd keep it instead if I were him..

He said "it smoked a lot,but ran very good still,just fouled spark plugs after awhile"..."I have no room to keep it though,and if I dont trade it in now,I wont have enough cash to buy the rebuilt engine"..

Another regular customer happened to be waiting at the counter for a part to come in--he said "I'll buy it off you for $100,right now!"--the kid grinned and said "Sure"...so he paid him and told him "back your truck up to mine and we can shove it right in the bed"...

He has us go thru it a few months later--it only needed to be honed and new rings installed--had no ridge at all,most of the original hone marks were intact..the guy had us install new main & rod bearings after measuring them,and had a valve job done,the guy who did the work said it really didn't need all that,everything looked nice still..
The rings were caked up and stuck in the grooves in the pistons in a few cylinders..
 
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