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4wheel discs, FOUND PERFECT MASTER CYLINDER!!

Oxyacetylene said:
Honestly I doubt the MC will really help with a squishy pedal. I thought it would help mine, but the real problem was air in the rear calipers. Try pumping the pedal with the engine off. If the pedal gets more firm then you might have air in the system still. If you pump it and get a firm pedal but it leaks down if you hold it then your stock MC could be bad.

My D60 front has the JB7 brakes and the pads are noticeably larger than the JB5.

ooo alright, thanks for letting me know, maybe ill do that...:bow:
 
Oxyacetylene said:
Honestly I doubt the MC will really help with a squishy pedal. I thought it would help mine, but the real problem was air in the rear calipers. Try pumping the pedal with the engine off. If the pedal gets more firm then you might have air in the system still. If you pump it and get a firm pedal but it leaks down if you hold it then your stock MC could be bad.

My D60 front has the JB7 brakes and the pads are noticeably larger than the JB5.
Second air in the system if it will pump up.

Something to note about larger pads, just in case there's an erroneous idea about them. They mean nothing in terms of stopping power. A larger pad only lasts longer. It's hard for me to understand why, better yet try to explain it, but the surface area of the pad has no effect on stopping ability. There are all sorts of formulas out there to calculate braking power, none I've ever seen asks for pad surface area.
 
Yup. That's pretty much correct but the JB7 system only has bigger pads because it has a bigger piston in the caliper. And a bigger piston does mean more braking power.
 
Actually in this case it's:
Braking Torque = Pressure * Piston Area * mu(pad to rotor) * Pad Centroid Radius
 
ntsqd said:
Actually in this case it's:
Braking Torque = Pressure * Piston Area * mu(pad to rotor) * Pad Centroid Radius

I believe that would fall under the SAME theory of which I have already explained.:rolleyes: :D
 
ntsqd said:
Actually in this case it's:
Braking Torque = Pressure * Piston Area * mu(pad to rotor) * Pad Centroid Radius

Don't get all mathy on me...:shame:

:D
 
54inches said:
I believe that would fall under the SAME theory of which I have already explained.:rolleyes: :D
If you mean this:
54inches said:
X2

Force = Mass X Acceleration

:doah:
Netwon's Second Law of Motion. How does it relate to the topic and what value is it to the discussion? The only acceleration (decceleration) I'm seeing is the whole vehicle, not the caliper piston relative to the caliper body.

My point, however, was a bigger piston is not the only factor in increasing braking torque. Sometimes it is easier to increase rotor diameter than it is to increase caliper piston area. Also, changing the rotor diameter does not upset the hydraulic system balance like changing the caliper (or m/c) piston size does. This is important to whether or not you have an inherently spongy pedal or an exceedingly stiff pedal and is different than brake balance - which is what p-valves & balance bars are all about.

The formula I posted will give you the braking torque. Getting the pad Coefficient of Friction (the "mu") for stock type pads isn't easy, but you could use the number from one of wilwood's published data on their lower temp range stock replacement pads & be reasonably close. The only reason for doing this is to forcast how your changes are going to improve the brakes, particularly if you're heading in a direction that no one has gone b4. Sometimes a little math (eeeuuuuwwwww!) will save you from doing a lot of work for little gain.

goldwing2000 said:
Don't get all mathy on me...:shame:

:D

Sorry. An engineering education warps the mind.
 
ntsqd said:
Sorry. An engineering education warps the mind.

Yup it does, in thinking that you are 100% correct ALL of the time!:haha:


Actually I was referring to the piston in the caliper when I was referring to "acceleration", but AS I HAVE ALREADY STATED, I was just using it as a BASIC formula.

I really think we are arguing the same point, because I agree with your explanation. I just do not need to explain every little formula and try to make the rest of the board look like idiots because they do not have an engineeering degree.:eek1:



I am just messing with you! We are right!:haha:
 
i wonder if this master cylinder will work on my 1980 gmc?? im converting it to disc brakes soon.
 
Xtremegmc80 said:
i wonder if this master cylinder will work on my 1980 gmc?? im converting it to disc brakes soon.
I'm thinking it won't work with your booster. I'm not sure what the cutoff is though. That's why I dug up this old thread a few days ago. So far, no answers. :dunno:
 
just a quick qeustion...yall are saying taht this particular m/s will only work with some boosters. dont all the boosters bolt up teh the firewall in the same fashion? from what i remember you should always replace both...so whynot just spen the extra $40 and be done?
 
Xtremegmc80 said:
exactly.. what set is better? new p valve or the mastercylinder and booster?
Depends on what you need to do.
If the bias is wrong then you need to look into p-valve stuff.
If you have either an extremely hard pedal or a soft, mushy pedal then you need to look at booster & m/c.
 
ntsqd said:
If you have either an extremely hard pedal or a soft, mushy pedal then you need to look at booster & m/c.

wait its either or? i always was taught that a extremely hard pedal means a new booster (bc of lack of vacuum pressure blah blah blah) and the soft pedal meant a new M/c

my pedal is soft but i put a new m/c in it and its still soft...hmm maybe my booster is bad.
 
broncoman6524 said:
wait its either or? i always was taught that a extremely hard pedal means a new booster (bc of lack of vacuum pressure blah blah blah) and the soft pedal meant a new M/c

my pedal is soft but i put a new m/c in it and its still soft...hmm maybe my booster is bad.
If the system is all stock then normal diagnosis rules work. Same when you're working on a modified system that has already been sorted out and was working fine, but now is not.

But when you're making modification(s) those rules don't always lead you in the right direction. During the mod process a soft pedal (assuming everything is working correctly) indicates either too big of a caliper piston size (possible but not likely) or too small of a m/c bore size. A too soft pedal and too much pedal travel are both of the complaints when the m/c bore is too small.
Too hard a pedal usually indicates too large of a m/c bore size.
 
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