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52s vs 56s in the front and why??

Here http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115175 is the semi-write up I did when I did it. The post is fairly old, so there was no 52/56" spring swap then. I had moved my axle forward w/ a zero rate.

Here is a pic. There are more in the thread I posted:
P8030024.jpg
 
73-79 Ford 1/2 ton 4x4, that has standard power steering. Look out some of them had manuel boxes w/ hydro-assist & all the parts from that set-up are junk. This arm is almost perfectly flat.
 
Does your draglink get close to the engine xmember boz?

EDIT: nevermind I see your tube xmember in the thread you linked to.
 
73-79 Ford 1/2 ton 4x4, that has standard power steering. Look out some of them had manuel boxes w/ hydro-assist & all the parts from that set-up are junk. This arm is almost perfectly flat.
so im guessing that arm wont work unless you put that channel in the frame and have a tube x-member
 
Does your draglink get close to the engine xmember boz?



No, not at all, but I have a tubular one I built to support my Caddy stroker 500. My hydro-assist ram would hit the engine crossmember if not for the bumpstops though. I bet a factory engine crossmember could be a problem.

enginemounts.jpg


P1010014.jpg


P1010018.jpg


P8030023.jpg
 
If you moved the ram down, you'd have pretty good uptravel, huh? That's what I'm hunting for. Max uptravel for hitting bumps at speed with min lift using the 56" springs already on it.
 
so im guessing that arm wont work unless you put that channel in the frame and have a tube x-member

Not sure on the crossmember, mine was already tubular when I did the "C" notch. You will most defenetly need the notch to clear this arm. No exception.
 
If you moved the ram down, you'd have pretty good uptravel, huh? That's what I'm hunting for. Max uptravel for hitting bumps at speed with min lift using the 56" springs already on it.


You could lower the ram, but you would need to keep the ram as close to parallel w/ the tierod as possible.
 
You could lower the ram, but you would need to keep the ram as close to parallel w/ the tierod as possible.

Yeah, but you're histeer right? Mine is not, so the ram is down in front of the axle out of the way. I don't worry about hitting rocks too much since I have 44" tires, a beefy tire rod, and I usually play in dirt notches.
 
Yes, I am running highsteer. Apperently I have the shortest version arm that ORD makes also. I think their latest version are longer, a longer arm would help the hydro ram clearance, but hurt the drag link/tierod clearance.
 
I've seen knuckles broken from rams on histeer, so I prefer to keep my tie rod and ram in the stock position.
 
twoslo, sorry for hijacking your thread. :o

Maybe you should rename it "How to get uptravel with a small lift"....
 
ok, now im confused

Same as 52s. The extra 4"s is behind the center (or offcenter in this case) pin. 52s have the centering pin in the middle at 26"/26". 56s are at 26"/30" for clarification.

muddermilitia and i discussed this in his build thread right here, @ post 277 he said 56'' could only run turned 1 direction, so i'm lost now...here goes nuttin..

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195380&page=3

i had planned on b52 /56's and zero rate moving axel back 1 1/2'', to get me back close to stock wb .... @1'' forward....now i see all this....so, i can just swap sides w/ front hanger and it would put hanger in front of rad support mount and 56'' will bolt up, and longer shackle will help take full advantage of springs lenght.....but not good for street????

we also talked about crossover and hi steer here

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=223807

so i guess i will just out right ask if what i'm thinking will work...(sorry for hijack, but i think its really same thing you are asking)
i was planning b52/ or swap sides with front mount(??) and 6'' 56'' spring, zero rate used to pull axle back and ?6''? shackels..up front....6'' 56'' springs in back w/shackle flip and ??(what ever it take to level k5)?? lenght shackles in the rear, to get 9-10'' of lift, and still be streetable? oh yea wanted to run the ord or some type of histeer(i've run into stuff in the mud and bent crossover b4...so am i thinking straight or should i just get a 10-12'' stock lift and btw..either way i want histeer and will be running as big a tire as i can afford since i got me a d60f:D,..maybe even 53'' michelinsw/3 more'' of body lift,...i no you guys dont like the body lifts, but i see no harm in them running in the mud and light i mean light trails or flexing?
 
Donno about the suspension/steering stuff, but you better go to built up rocks if you are gonna run 53" michelins.
 

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