I also run a table fan above my heater to circulate the heat.. just incase no one mentioned it
CK5
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57 Pontiac "Zero Fox"
- Thread starter tRustyK5
- Start date
I have an oscillating fan by the Mr. Heater helping push it around some.
Last edited:
I have a trucking company who supplies me.
Shit work Sunday!!
Took about another 35 lbs of old mud and rocks out from under there, all from inside the frame. A pick, an air gun, and a hammer...what a foxin mess!!!
Got another couple of feet of underbody painted, and about the same amount of frame. I'm ahead of the rear end now. Also bent up the last piece of steel fuel line...then called it for the day.
Took about another 35 lbs of old mud and rocks out from under there, all from inside the frame. A pick, an air gun, and a hammer...what a foxin mess!!!
Got another couple of feet of underbody painted, and about the same amount of frame. I'm ahead of the rear end now. Also bent up the last piece of steel fuel line...then called it for the day.
So some parts have been ordered, some showed up, some are still on the way and I did some stuff.
I made a decision on rims. I went with the Torque Thrust because IMO they are the best looking rim on a tri five.
Rears are 15 x 8.5" with 3.75" of BS. I bolted one up to the stock rear to confirm how they will fit. Bear in mind the 9" Ford rear end will be 2" narrower...
They currently sit 1/2" in from the fender lip. With a 275 radial on there it'll be about perfect with the narrower rear end. I ordered some 4.5" wide front runners at the same time, but I think the shipping company damaged them because they got sent back. The replacements will be here tomorrow.
So, that's the fluffy stuff. Next up was a problem I kinda read about after I got the engine dropped in. Clearance problems to the steering linkage. There is only about enough room for an 8" sump behind the linkage, but the pan on the 389 in about 9 1/2" of sump. I get 1 1/2 turns from center in either direction and CONTACT!!
No bueno!! So after some Googling I found that Chevy ll's from 62-67 had this same issue and they make a pan to solve for it. Yay, more parts to buy!!
Comes as a kit with bolts gasket, extended pickup and the pan. Gives me another two quarts capacity too.
So I dropped the steering linkage and felt i should have plenty of room to do the swap. Got the old pan off and added the new pickup. Everything seemed cool, and after double checking to pickup was at the correct height I tried to swing the new pan under there...and NOPE! The new pickup is as far back as they could make it, which is good for under hard acceleration, but it means the pan can not go up and in at an angle.
At this point I am pretty irritated and of course have the new gasket coated in RTV. I ended up lightly bolting up the gasket by itself so it could seal to the block, cleaned off the pan and went it for the night.
Today I went back into the garage with fresh eyes and a better attitude, said Fox it!! and did this.
At least now the pan can go on...
I'm going to leave the engine and trans out for now. After foxing around with the mechanical clutch linkage I have decided to go with the "Line Launch" hydraulic clutch from Mcleod. Works a bit like line lock, clutch pedal down, push button and the clutch is held in the released position until you let off the button. Anyways that won't be here til January 10th or so. In the meantime with the engine out the clean and paint thing is easier...
I made a decision on rims. I went with the Torque Thrust because IMO they are the best looking rim on a tri five.
Rears are 15 x 8.5" with 3.75" of BS. I bolted one up to the stock rear to confirm how they will fit. Bear in mind the 9" Ford rear end will be 2" narrower...
They currently sit 1/2" in from the fender lip. With a 275 radial on there it'll be about perfect with the narrower rear end. I ordered some 4.5" wide front runners at the same time, but I think the shipping company damaged them because they got sent back. The replacements will be here tomorrow.
So, that's the fluffy stuff. Next up was a problem I kinda read about after I got the engine dropped in. Clearance problems to the steering linkage. There is only about enough room for an 8" sump behind the linkage, but the pan on the 389 in about 9 1/2" of sump. I get 1 1/2 turns from center in either direction and CONTACT!!
No bueno!! So after some Googling I found that Chevy ll's from 62-67 had this same issue and they make a pan to solve for it. Yay, more parts to buy!!
Comes as a kit with bolts gasket, extended pickup and the pan. Gives me another two quarts capacity too.
So I dropped the steering linkage and felt i should have plenty of room to do the swap. Got the old pan off and added the new pickup. Everything seemed cool, and after double checking to pickup was at the correct height I tried to swing the new pan under there...and NOPE! The new pickup is as far back as they could make it, which is good for under hard acceleration, but it means the pan can not go up and in at an angle.
At this point I am pretty irritated and of course have the new gasket coated in RTV. I ended up lightly bolting up the gasket by itself so it could seal to the block, cleaned off the pan and went it for the night.
Today I went back into the garage with fresh eyes and a better attitude, said Fox it!! and did this.
At least now the pan can go on...
I'm going to leave the engine and trans out for now. After foxing around with the mechanical clutch linkage I have decided to go with the "Line Launch" hydraulic clutch from Mcleod. Works a bit like line lock, clutch pedal down, push button and the clutch is held in the released position until you let off the button. Anyways that won't be here til January 10th or so. In the meantime with the engine out the clean and paint thing is easier...
You really can’t go wrong with the torq-thrust wheels. Should look good with the meats on there.
You are right the pan issue is pretty common. Short of converting to rack and pinion for more moolah you did the right thing. Though I bet you need to drop the steering center link off one side to allow dropping the engine back in.
I like the clutch line lock. One button clutch dumps. I’m guessing one would tie that in with the two-step to set your launch rpm. Kind of like how a trans brake gets set up.
You are right the pan issue is pretty common. Short of converting to rack and pinion for more moolah you did the right thing. Though I bet you need to drop the steering center link off one side to allow dropping the engine back in.
I like the clutch line lock. One button clutch dumps. I’m guessing one would tie that in with the two-step to set your launch rpm. Kind of like how a trans brake gets set up.
Yeah, I have the idler unbolted and the passenger tie rod unbolted from the steering arm. Experience is the stupidest teacher, it teaches you how to do something the best way, after you've already done it the dumbest way. Dropping the steering stuff is easy peasy and makes pulling or installing the engine 1000% easier. That being said, anytime that pan needs to come off, the engine pretty much needs to be most of the way out.
I have line lock, and the "launch lock" clutch stuff coming, and already have the two step here. I'm gong to look into wiring it so the clutch deal, and the two step are only ever able to be active in first gear, and the line lock be able to be active in first and second. I'm thinking of repurposing the horn switch as the activation switch and put a momentary switch on the dash somewhere for horn. Stealthy, and similar to trans brake button.
I have line lock, and the "launch lock" clutch stuff coming, and already have the two step here. I'm gong to look into wiring it so the clutch deal, and the two step are only ever able to be active in first gear, and the line lock be able to be active in first and second. I'm thinking of repurposing the horn switch as the activation switch and put a momentary switch on the dash somewhere for horn. Stealthy, and similar to trans brake button.
So after some digging, but before it actually shipped I found out all the "line launch" kit is is the solenoid. Kind of deceiving on the Summit site because it shows a full hydraulic clutch kit with the line launch solenoid. It did seem cheap, which made me dig a lot deeper to find out for sure. Short version I cancelled those parts and found a complete hydraulic clutch kit for a 55-57 Chevy with the Tremec TKX trans. Specific to the car, and the trans I have.
Weirdly enough I found it on eBay, yet could not find the same product on Summit...so eBay it is!
The parts showed up after a few weeks. There was no sense putting the engine and trans back in the car until this was done...
So the install of the release bearing is fairly simple, they want to see between 0.100" and 0.250" clearance between the face of the bearing and the clutch fingers to allow for the clutch to wear. Apparently as the clutch wears the fingers "rise". The bearing face contacts the fingers at all times after the first press of the clutch pedal, but it is meant to do so.
I'm kinda dicking around with maybe doing the youtube thing, so I mostly have video right now. If I go forward I'll post the edited public vid here. I didn't take a ton of pics so far. I did get the bearing installed and the trans re-installed though. I started on the firewall stuff, and it's going to be fun. Underdash stuff...uggg.
Anyways, the AN-4 lines with protective hose over them...
and a Strange pic...
I cannot imagine doing this in the car...
More later!
Weirdly enough I found it on eBay, yet could not find the same product on Summit...so eBay it is!
The parts showed up after a few weeks. There was no sense putting the engine and trans back in the car until this was done...
So the install of the release bearing is fairly simple, they want to see between 0.100" and 0.250" clearance between the face of the bearing and the clutch fingers to allow for the clutch to wear. Apparently as the clutch wears the fingers "rise". The bearing face contacts the fingers at all times after the first press of the clutch pedal, but it is meant to do so.
I'm kinda dicking around with maybe doing the youtube thing, so I mostly have video right now. If I go forward I'll post the edited public vid here. I didn't take a ton of pics so far. I did get the bearing installed and the trans re-installed though. I started on the firewall stuff, and it's going to be fun. Underdash stuff...uggg.
Anyways, the AN-4 lines with protective hose over them...
and a Strange pic...
I cannot imagine doing this in the car...
More later!
I had to work way too hard for this. Considering the kit was specific to the car...a lot of it just flat out didn't line up or work as designed. The biggest issue was attachment to the clutch pedal. The first issue was even shortened up as much as the thread would allow the heim was hitting the pedal stop bracket before the clutch master would bottom out on the bracket. I ended up having to shorten the threaded portion about 1/4".
Next, they supplied a bracket that should bolt to the clutch pedal and provide a mount hole for the heim. The problem was, no matter which side of the clutch pedal arm I mounted it, I could not get a straight shot to the master and it would bind on the bolts. I ended up welding part of that bracket to the edge of the pedal arm.
So, many hours later it's done.
This took some foxin around to get the pedals the same height. I ended up having to tack weld a small spacer on the brake pedal arm, then adjust the pushrod back in 1/8" so that the master would have no pressure on it when mounted.
and where I mounted the clutch master resevoir.
Next up I think will be mounting the prop/combo valve down on the frame and making brake lines.
The brake kit showed up with the prop/combo valve mounted to the master, and that was a little too close to the fenderwell headers for my liking.
Progress...
Next, they supplied a bracket that should bolt to the clutch pedal and provide a mount hole for the heim. The problem was, no matter which side of the clutch pedal arm I mounted it, I could not get a straight shot to the master and it would bind on the bolts. I ended up welding part of that bracket to the edge of the pedal arm.
So, many hours later it's done.
This took some foxin around to get the pedals the same height. I ended up having to tack weld a small spacer on the brake pedal arm, then adjust the pushrod back in 1/8" so that the master would have no pressure on it when mounted.
and where I mounted the clutch master resevoir.
Next up I think will be mounting the prop/combo valve down on the frame and making brake lines.
The brake kit showed up with the prop/combo valve mounted to the master, and that was a little too close to the fenderwell headers for my liking.
Progress...
I have had many "designed specifically for" kits fail miserably. Like you did, they have to be customized.
Nice work.
Nice work.
Need any parts?
Not much interchange between the American Pontiac and the Canadian Pontiac. Cool 56 Cheiftain? Is that an auction or??
It was a car show.
Well I've been trying to maintain steady progress. It's not all sexy, but it all needs doing. With the engine out for the oil pan swap it was the best time to bear down on the work that was easiest to do with the engine out. Inside of the frame rails, brake lines, and underbody cleaning and painting.
I scratched my head for hours trying to find the best place for the prop/combo valve that met all the needs. As far from exhaust as possible, easy to service if needed, and work well for brake line routing. I finally settled on this location.
Then it was on to bending up the brake lines and routing them.
I took the opportunity to fully remove the old transmission mount brackets from the frame and clean that us and paint it. With the steering linkage down I inspected it all and can't find any play in any of the joints. Guaranteed they're all "dry" but that's about it. I'll be greasing the hell out of everything there shortly.
Looks like I didn't snap a pic of the frame etc re-painted, but it looks sharp now. With it repainted and brake lines run it was time to throw the engine and trans in again. Now that all the mysteries have been solved, it's a 20 minute job.
Here is a decent shot of the underside between the frame rails now that it's been cleaned and spritzed with some "rebuild in a can".
Next up is trying to bleed the clutch.
I scratched my head for hours trying to find the best place for the prop/combo valve that met all the needs. As far from exhaust as possible, easy to service if needed, and work well for brake line routing. I finally settled on this location.
Then it was on to bending up the brake lines and routing them.
I took the opportunity to fully remove the old transmission mount brackets from the frame and clean that us and paint it. With the steering linkage down I inspected it all and can't find any play in any of the joints. Guaranteed they're all "dry" but that's about it. I'll be greasing the hell out of everything there shortly.
Looks like I didn't snap a pic of the frame etc re-painted, but it looks sharp now. With it repainted and brake lines run it was time to throw the engine and trans in again. Now that all the mysteries have been solved, it's a 20 minute job.
Here is a decent shot of the underside between the frame rails now that it's been cleaned and spritzed with some "rebuild in a can".
Next up is trying to bleed the clutch.
Thats looking GREAT Rene’!
What led you to decide on the combo prop valve? Ive not had good luck with them in an aftermarket usage and go with a knob type adjustable inline valve.
How does the front line lock work?
What led you to decide on the combo prop valve? Ive not had good luck with them in an aftermarket usage and go with a knob type adjustable inline valve.
How does the front line lock work?
