CK5
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6.0's here. What am I getting into? Pics added 10-30-08

The TAC module is a little black box, about 4"x6" it is located on the firewall on the donor truck, between the master cylinder, and the drivers side fender. There is a small jumper harness that plugs into the pedal and one side of that TAC module. The other connector for the TAC module is in the engine wiring harness that goes to the computer.
let me know if you have a hard time finding one, i have a few, and i can get them rather easily.
 
Hey Ryan, did you use the factory flexplate spacer on your swap? I've read the gen III motors have a different crank offset than the gen I and IIs. But the 6.0L0 mated to 4l80es have a spacer to make up for the older transmissions.
 
I am doing a little research right now into putting a 5.3L into my 95 S10. I wanna get a pre-drive-by-wire engine to simplify the swap, what year did they make the switch? Also whats a good LS engine website/forum to go to?
 
Yes, the inline fuel pumps can be noisey. we just put in a cheapy $80 summit fuel pump in my buddys truck and it is quite noisey. The airtex pumps are a little quieter, but theyre like 200 bucks i think.

Yes you can use the factory 4l80e crank spacer for the flexplate for older th350/400/700r4 trannys. for my th350 since i put in a 4000 stall converter, and im not planning on being nice to it, i opted to buy a TCI sfi approved flexplate that comes with the spacer, and a torque converter pilot spacer... i had a machine shop modify the converter pilot hub spacer so i didn't have to remove my pilot bearing/spacer in the back of the crank for my sm465. The stock flexplates are a joke how thin they are, and i didnt want to risk cracking the flexplate, so i got the thicker TCI flexplate.

As far as truck engines go, 4.8/5.3./6.0... Cable operated setups were primarily in '01 and '02, or earlier. there was some drive by wire stuff in 01/02 as well, so pay attention. anything 03 and newer will be drive by wire unless its out of a box truck or a chevy express delivery van.
i actually have a couple of throttle cable harnesses & computers laying around as well... so i can set you up with everything you'd need. :wink1:
www.ls1tech.com and www.ls1truck.com both have a ton of info.

Ryan
[email protected]
 
when I did my 6.0 swap years ago(back in 03), I used an intank fuel pump out of a 96-99 vortec 350 pickup truck. Since my 91 was an intank tbi unit, it hooked right up and worked great. Never had any starvation issues or anything of the sorts. Also I think just the programming you will need on that computer and the hacking of the harness to use that pedal assembly will run you $1k+ for a quality job from what I remember. Honestly, toss budgets out the window. I have heard a good way to judge the cost of a build especially for an engine swap, is to take the price of the motor, and double it. Of course there are exceptions to this rule. I had about $7k into my swap, but there also wasnt much info at the time period unless it was high dollar stuff so I had a learning curve. Knowing now what I didnt know then, I could easily cut that price in half or more.

Remington
 
If you are any good with wiring the harness work is not to bad at all, I did all my harness work myself, just spent $15 on alldata so you have good wiring diagrams and take your time. Its nice doing it your self because if there ever is a problem you will know the Harness very Well.

Besides the Engine the most expensive parts where
HP Tuners $700 (will pay for its self because i can tune my truck all i want really fast rather than sending it out every time)

AA Flywheel $300

Corvette Fuel Filter $45

Motor Mount adapter plates $45.

I did the swap on a pretty tight bugget. The swap though will pay for its self pretty fast being that i am getting way better fuel mileage and the added driveibility of fuel injection is worth its weight in gold
 
Nice that it has no miles on it, but come on, cut hoses and what not? That's absolutely ridiculous to cut brand new parts to save themselves time when you are the one that bought it. I mean they are already pulling the motor...did it really save them or you THAT much time to cut the stuff and make it worthwhile?

I can't answer whether you need them or not, but I'd find out ASAP, and I'd make them credit you for every piece you have to buy because of their laziness or inattention to detail in sending you the wrong stuff.
 
Man I'm starting to get frustrated. Over 2 weeks now. I got the pedal but I'm still waiting on him to send me the MAF and the TAC module. I priced a new MAF today and the dealer said he new the VIN for the calibration code. Does that mean I can't get a used MAF from another vehicle because it's not calibrated for my engine?
 
Man I'm starting to get frustrated. Over 2 weeks now. I got the pedal but I'm still waiting on him to send me the MAF and the TAC module. I priced a new MAF today and the dealer said he new the VIN for the calibration code. Does that mean I can't get a used MAF from another vehicle because it's not calibrated for my engine?

the truck MAF's are all the same the difference is the car mafs because of the intake tract. These MAF's are frequency based not hot wire, so they have to be tuned for the different intakes.

If you have a tunner you could just go to a speed density only setup that makes the sir intake easier and one less expensive part to break
 
ls swap

$1500 for motor and all. i figure on having a little more than $2k in it when the swap is done, maybe more. i'm sure there are some things i'll need that i haven't thought of yet.

Heh itl be more if you want more power removing vats and tuning will set u back about 300. I have efi live and the program cost me a $hitload
You could get an easy 500 hp out of that motor w the right cam, headers, intake and a tune

Ive done LS swaps as well as many other types. my advice to you is to research @ ls1tech on how to use the wiring harness you have. the first ls swap i made the mistake of using Pan(intheass)less. thier techs are incompetent in electrical
 
Heh itl be more if you want more power removing vats and tuning will set u back about 300. I have efi live and the program cost me a $hitload
You could get an easy 500 hp out of that motor w the right cam, headers, intake and a tune

Ive done LS swaps as well as many other types. my advice to you is to research @ ls1tech on how to use the wiring harness you have. the first ls swap i made the mistake of using Pan(intheass)less. thier techs are incompetent in electrical


Yeah, I'm going to use the harness I have. A guy at work gave me his log in to All-Data. I'm thinking I can use the wiring diagrams from there to thin the harness out quite a bit. Is there a way to relocate the compressor to be able to have a/c?
 
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Hey man. I was thumbing through some old issues of 4 Wheel Offroad and found these articles. Maybe they have some part numbers and info you could use.

LSX engine swap 001.jpg

LSX engine swap 002.jpg

LSX engine swap 003.jpg

LSX engine swap 004.jpg

LSX engine swap 005.jpg
 
Camaro brakets

Yeah, I'm going to use the harness I have. A guy at work gave me his log in to All-Data. I'm thinking I can use the wiring diagrams from there to thin the harness out quite a bit. Is there a way to relocate the compressor to be able to have a/c?

Yea chang all the front to Camaro:(
 
Yeah, I'm going to use the harness I have. A guy at work gave me his log in to All-Data. I'm thinking I can use the wiring diagrams from there to thin the harness out quite a bit. Is there a way to relocate the compressor to be able to have a/c?

From what I've read in the article and my GEN III engine books. All the factory A/C locations for all LSX engines, is mounted too low for use in the K5's frame.
"Without major frame surgery" But that doesn't mean there is not an aftermarket setup out there. Maybe March? http://www.marchperf.com/ls-1_new.html
 
I believe you can run the corvette brackets and it will clear. I wish I was able to use my other computer with all my research bookmarked. I spent long nights and hours acquiring this info.
 
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